What else do I need before the install?
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,166
Likes: 6
From: San Antonio, TEXAS!!!
Vehicle: 01 Tiburon Turbo, 99 Tiburon F2E, 2013 Avalon XLE Touring
I just bought this: 
http://www.monstercable.com/productPagePri...nt.asp?pin=1352
Got it from Pepboys for $32 total. It was somewhat mismarked. wink.gif
I'm gonna be installing 2-12" Eclipse 88120DVC's:

And also an old Earthquake amp. Got it from a friend who says it's more than enough to power the subs. 800rms? I don't know much about this stuff. It's about 18"x15".
Anyways, I know that the kit doesn't include all the wiring, so I was wondering if you guys could help me out on what other wiring I need to buy and where from. I'm running this through the stock HU btw, so I guess I'll need a convertor?

http://www.monstercable.com/productPagePri...nt.asp?pin=1352
Got it from Pepboys for $32 total. It was somewhat mismarked. wink.gif
I'm gonna be installing 2-12" Eclipse 88120DVC's:

And also an old Earthquake amp. Got it from a friend who says it's more than enough to power the subs. 800rms? I don't know much about this stuff. It's about 18"x15".
Anyways, I know that the kit doesn't include all the wiring, so I was wondering if you guys could help me out on what other wiring I need to buy and where from. I'm running this through the stock HU btw, so I guess I'll need a convertor?
QUOTE (JonGTR)
I'm running this through the stock HU btw, so I guess I'll need a convertor?
yeah, unless the amp has high-level inputs. you will also need speaker wire from the subs to the amp(circuit city has spools that you can cut the desired length from; with 800 watts rms, get the thickest wire you can use with your sub or amp). also, if the amp indeeds pushes 800w rms, then you will prolly need to get a capacitator, and make sure you get speaker wire to go from the subs to the terminals on the inside of the box.
btw, thats a good price for that kit.
QUOTE (Mad-Machine)
Not many people know about the power and audio cables causing hum if run along side each other. You CAN cross them with little problem.. provided the cables run at 90 degees to each other.
could this cause other problems in the car as well? what i mean is, i ran my audio cables through the center of the car right by the parking break and now i get a dim dummy light for the break and the battery and when i drive off it pulses.
i have been to lazy to re-route it but i wonder if that would be causing the problem.
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QUOTE (Littlejohn)
QUOTE (Mad-Machine)
Not many people know about the power and audio cables causing hum if run along side each other. You CAN cross them with little problem.. provided the cables run at 90 degees to each other.
could this cause other problems in the car as well? what i mean is, i ran my audio cables through the center of the car right by the parking break and now i get a dim dummy light for the break and the battery and when i drive off it pulses.
i have been to lazy to re-route it but i wonder if that would be causing the problem.
is this when you have the poer cranked up all the way?
if it is then you need to be looking into getting yourself a capacitor if u dont have it at full volume then i suggest looking over you ground cables as this is a result most times of dimming lights and the way the car drives
the only time i can see my dummy lights is when it is dark out. i have the power or volume down low so the bass is not hitting.
the parking break and the battery dummy lights are on but real dim. if i pull the e-break then the e-break light will come on fully.
when i start moving, both dummy lights along with my head lights will flicker to the same pattern starting slow and then getting faster as i speed up.
i noticed it as soon as i hooked everything up.
i ran all the wires from the stereo and the battery through the center consol, under the carpet but it passes the e-break and all that. it is ran directly under my shifter tray.
i thought it would be a ground problem so i un-hooked the system from the battery but i still get the dull dummy lights.
should i try re-routing everything? or could this be an alternator problem?
i had the alternator checked at sears and they said it checked out good.
the parking break and the battery dummy lights are on but real dim. if i pull the e-break then the e-break light will come on fully.
when i start moving, both dummy lights along with my head lights will flicker to the same pattern starting slow and then getting faster as i speed up.
i noticed it as soon as i hooked everything up.
i ran all the wires from the stereo and the battery through the center consol, under the carpet but it passes the e-break and all that. it is ran directly under my shifter tray.
i thought it would be a ground problem so i un-hooked the system from the battery but i still get the dull dummy lights.
should i try re-routing everything? or could this be an alternator problem?
i had the alternator checked at sears and they said it checked out good.
You can buy noise suppressors to remove noise – but I found that the tib in general makes a lot of noise especially with the lights and AC on – I know this since I had the same system in a pug and there was no noise (and its all wired exactly the same) – all fixed now tho
QUOTE (Littlejohn)
QUOTE (Mad-Machine)
Not many people know about the power and audio cables causing hum if run along side each other. You CAN cross them with little problem.. provided the cables run at 90 degees to each other.
could this cause other problems in the car as well? what i mean is, i ran my audio cables through the center of the car right by the parking break and now i get a dim dummy light for the break and the battery and when i drive off it pulses.
i have been to lazy to re-route it but i wonder if that would be causing the problem.
Sorry, that I don't know. I attended several seminars for Professional theatrical, audio, and visual. I was just telling you what I learned about running both power and signal.. if they cross at a right angle, they will NOT induce a magnetic field which causes hum.


