Im looking to improve on my car audio, from the stock speakers and two 600watt subs(powered by a 760 watt amp) into a killer sound system. I want it all mounted in the back, professional looking, while the rest of the car looks stock.
I understand I'll need another amp, 4 new speakers, 2 capacitors(yes? or just 1 for subs), and another amp(hopefully 1.2-1.5 watt output to power subs, and the old one goes to speakers)...

Does that sound appropriate and any suggestions on which brands?

 

Hmm what kind of amp is the old one? If you're powering subs with it it is probably mono, or 2-channel. You would preferably want a 4-channel amp for the 4 speakers.

You won't need 2 capacitors, it is disputed whether even 1 capacitor helps (amps have capacitors inside them, after the power conversion to higher voltage)

Also bear in mind that the stock alternator only produces a little more than 1kW so having amps that use much more than that doesn't make much sense (you won't be able to use them at that power for more than a little while).

For the front speakers, components make a big difference (I would get the Phoenix Gold RSd 65c, if you look them up on caraudio.com forums you'll see everyone loves them)

 

Amps: I would suggest Elemental Designs. NINe.1 for the sub. If you go with huge subs, say JLw7's, the NINe.1 is stackable. 1200 WRMS doubles to 2400 WRMS!! Their four channel amps are nice as well. Plus, all of their products, even their subs, come with a 5 year warranty directly from the manufacturer.

subs: Well, this is tough for me. I really like the Alpine type R series. Huge sound for a lot less then the JL's. But, there are plenty of JL Audio fans as well. This will definitely depend on your budget. Kicker would also make my short list as well as the products at elemental designs.

enclosure: Big sound has always IMO come from the enclosure. MDF is hands down the best, but also the heaviest. Fiberglass would be the lightest, but if you are going for SPL, then a large volume, ported box with 3/4 MDF and the surrender of your entire trunk will do the trick!

Cap: I am a pro-capacitor audiophile for one reason: I have seen them make a huge difference in my own car! Before I purchased a cap, when I would really crank the subs, my engine would literally pulse to the beat of the music. Not at idle mind you, but while going down the road!!!!! LOL!!! Once I got the cap, this problem nearly went away completely. The other factor was the amp I was using was SOOOO inefficient. I resolved that with the Elemental designs NINe.1. Never had a problem since. So buy a nice quality amp, as this will also help with the power demands on your cars electrical system. I was running a NINe.1 1200 RMS with a 1 farad capacitor. Keep in mind that the general rule of thumb is for every 1000 watts, use 1 farad capcitor. So, if you decide to go with something huge, say 2000 watts, you'll want to go with a 2 or 2.5 farad capcitor.

Battery: There is another option, you could install a second battery in the trunk to help with the power needed for your system. I believe Stinger actually makes a battery style half battery/half capicitor. If you decide to do neither, you definitely need to invest in a deep cylce battery like Optima. If you are going for huge power, I'd suggest the blue top marine for deep cycle protection. You also have the option on upgrading your alternator.

sound dampening: Big sound also is dependent on the accoustic properties of your vehicle. Use sound deadening to help keep the vibrations to a minimum. This will also help with creating even more bass. Dynomat is the obvious choice, but there are better and less expensive alternatives. If you want to go with a dynomat type material, look for a material called polymeric mastic. Its basically dynomat without the logo. you can get it a McMaster.com Also, you can look into the sound deading material at Elemental Designs. They have all kinds of deading material, depending on how you want to install it. Rhino and/or generic truck bed lining also works well, as well as 3M rubberized undercoating. Dont get the cheap stuff!! If you go this route, get 3M.

Hope that gives you some food for thought. Keep us updated on your build!

 

^^^ What He Said. nana.gif

For the regular 6 1/2s and 6x9 speakers I recommend Pioneer. smile.gif

 

^^^
I would never go for 6*9. Splits are way better. 6*9's sound bad and also not good for sound staging. They hurt my ears..
JL's are very good subs. Remember your amp should have more wattage then your subs. And also find out how many ohm's its stable at. Remember you lower the ohm's you got double the power to your subs.
So its really really really important you match the sub ohms to your amp or they wont be compatible.
So you should look at the no. of coils of sub and if you are gonna wire in parallel or series.
And see what ohm that gives you.. Only then do you choose an amp.
Also it doesnt matter if your sub is the best..
If the box is wrong it will sound like poo. Im on my cell. Sorry if its long sentences but i thought i would give some words.

 

^^^
Your ears must suck then. My 6X9's sound great, I've recommended them to many others and they've bought the same (Audiobahn SQ something or others), including Tibbytib. What would you suggest for back speakers in the tib Daneeboy? The stocks are 6X9's, what would you replace them with, 12's? Also, please tell me how you would place them, I'm intrigued.

Or not.

 

What I'm thinking is picking up a yellowtop optima for power, one of the nine.2s to power my dual subs(I need to check ohms and such for compatibility). Then I'm seeing audiobahn speakers 6.5s and 6x9s all over ebay for 50$ a pair. If anyone can give me a model number that isn't the dirt cheap crappy quality ones, that are plastered all over there, so I can get an idea. My original amp is a 2 channel, but it has an input for 4 way in the back. It's a 760W Pioneer (http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=4891521) Yes that is a wal-mart link lol, but it googled well. I'm going to take a quick picture of the subs and show them to you. They were a gift from my mechanic.
The overall look I want, is everything looking stock, except for an entire trunk enclosure with two mounted subs, a mounted capacitor and and both amps mounted.

BTW my car lights dim like crazy when my subs are kicking.

Thanks in advance and overall for all the help so far.







Sorry for the big pictures, last two show the text on the speakers.

 

if you want it to look stock i would do something like Regit's subwoofer pods he made for the subs in the rear or if you wanted to go a single 10" sub go with something like tibbytib did with his.

I'm doing the subwoofer pods like regit's when i get my car back plus mounting the 500.5 jl audio amp to the rear section and then using FG to make it flow from pod to pod around the rear to make it look like one piece.

wow, nice runon sentence there Lee,lol.

6x9's can be used in the rear and a get set will sound just as good as seperates as long as you are willing to pay for that price. even though i decided to run seperates this time in both front and rear stage, 6x9"s will be fine. i used to have some boston acoustics 6x9's back in the 90's that would pound for only have 50w/per channel.

 

I have the same Audiobahns as Redz and they are incredible. I have mine run off an Amp and the sound is just amazing. I have also reccomended them to many people.

 

Which ones are those?