Speaker Box
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Umm...are you talking bandpass? I am not too familiar with the accent. I'm pretty sure that it has a trunk (as compared to a hatchback). You do not want to put a bandpass box in a trunk. It will sound like sh!t. Keep the box sealed...which means don't port the box...which is what I think you are referring to. 
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Those words are really unfamiliar to me.. hehe I don't know the terms so I checked 'em up on the net. That was exactly what I was asking. smile.gif) Thanks. So no holes in the box. Okie Dokie ! tongue.gif
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Ok basically bandpass boxes sound best when you have a lot of glass to bounce the sound off of. For example... SUV's, true hatchbacks... (you know the kind that like the whole back is almost glass...think of an old Yugo)... Sealed boxed produce a better sound when you have them in trunks...etc... Hope that clears it up a bit...
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From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
So...would you call the Tiburon a hatchback? What would you put in the back of a Tibby.
Also...doesn't the box design need to match the speakers as well? Speakers designed to go into a sealed box will sound crappy if they are ported, and vice versa...?
Also...doesn't the box design need to match the speakers as well? Speakers designed to go into a sealed box will sound crappy if they are ported, and vice versa...?
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prefab bandpasses almost always sound like crap unless they are specifically made for a certain sub. I prefer the sound of a sealed box in any type of vehicle, they aren't quite as loud but they are much more precise than a bandpass or a ported box, assuming the sub will work in a sealed box of course.
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Actually guys those answers are WAY off base. Random was correct in saying that the box is made for the speakers. As for and bandpass box sounding bad in a trunk, that is totally wrong, it has nothing to do with a trunk or hatch.
Basically a bandpass box has a "built in cross-over" by tuning the ports. The biggest part of the problem is that most people have the same ideas as AccentGSI does, cutting holes makes ports. That is a tragic sound error that lots of people make.
For example lets say that you have a car that REALLY helps out the upper bass frequency range but not the low. The idea would be to tune the box lower since the vehicle itself would help out the high bass. That way you get a full bass response. Thats why the idea of no bandpass in trunk isn't correct.
Bandpass boxes also fall into different catagories or "orders". The most common is the 2nd order or ported box. 3rd order is the same with some type of active equalazation. 4th order is when you have speaker in a sealed chamber firing into a ported chamber. This is what you see in most stores with brands such as Q-Logic, Jenson, and many others. 5th adds the equalaztion to the same box. 6th order is a ported box firing into a ported box. 7th again adds the equalazation.
All of those are awesome designs with one problem, they are complicated to make. It is kind of like car parts, you can't just throw a Ford cam into a Hyundai engine. It has to be EXACTLY right to make it work correctly.
That my friends was band pass education 101.
Basically a bandpass box has a "built in cross-over" by tuning the ports. The biggest part of the problem is that most people have the same ideas as AccentGSI does, cutting holes makes ports. That is a tragic sound error that lots of people make.
For example lets say that you have a car that REALLY helps out the upper bass frequency range but not the low. The idea would be to tune the box lower since the vehicle itself would help out the high bass. That way you get a full bass response. Thats why the idea of no bandpass in trunk isn't correct.
Bandpass boxes also fall into different catagories or "orders". The most common is the 2nd order or ported box. 3rd order is the same with some type of active equalazation. 4th order is when you have speaker in a sealed chamber firing into a ported chamber. This is what you see in most stores with brands such as Q-Logic, Jenson, and many others. 5th adds the equalaztion to the same box. 6th order is a ported box firing into a ported box. 7th again adds the equalazation.
All of those are awesome designs with one problem, they are complicated to make. It is kind of like car parts, you can't just throw a Ford cam into a Hyundai engine. It has to be EXACTLY right to make it work correctly.
That my friends was band pass education 101.
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I've sold car audio for three years and that's the best explanation I have heard. Of course, I still think that I am right. BUT, I did learn some new stuff...looks like an old dog can learn new tricks.
BTW...I wasn't saying that you COUDLN'T put a bandpass in a truck...my point is that it would sound much better in an area of a car that it could bounce sound better...
[ July 22, 2001: Message edited by: JGraham9382 ]
BUT, I did learn some new stuff...looks like an old dog can learn new tricks.BTW...I wasn't saying that you COUDLN'T put a bandpass in a truck...my point is that it would sound much better in an area of a car that it could bounce sound better...
[ July 22, 2001: Message edited by: JGraham9382 ]
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Cool, didn't know you sold for a while. I've been doing car audio for 13 years now.
Actually what you are talking about by saying "bouncing" is called loading. It helps with any sub application whether it be car or home. Basically the reason you want to try facing a box different ways is to get extra "distance" for a sound wave to develop. The higher the frequency the shorter wave and the lower the longer. That is the reason that someone coming down the road sounds so loud. It takes longer for the low waves to develop so a lot of times it sounds better outside than in.
In most cases, especially from a general box sale and install, the sealed will sound better. BUT, a good quality custom band pass box will always be nice. One of the biggest downfalls to band pass is also size. That is one of the reasons that you will see more sealed than band pass.
To date one of the most awesome systems that I had was 2 Kicker 10" subs in a band pass box in a 69 VW Bug. I had 500W running them and it hit HARD at high and low frequencies. Jus one of those lucky combinations that worked.
Actually what you are talking about by saying "bouncing" is called loading. It helps with any sub application whether it be car or home. Basically the reason you want to try facing a box different ways is to get extra "distance" for a sound wave to develop. The higher the frequency the shorter wave and the lower the longer. That is the reason that someone coming down the road sounds so loud. It takes longer for the low waves to develop so a lot of times it sounds better outside than in.
In most cases, especially from a general box sale and install, the sealed will sound better. BUT, a good quality custom band pass box will always be nice. One of the biggest downfalls to band pass is also size. That is one of the reasons that you will see more sealed than band pass.
To date one of the most awesome systems that I had was 2 Kicker 10" subs in a band pass box in a 69 VW Bug. I had 500W running them and it hit HARD at high and low frequencies. Jus one of those lucky combinations that worked.