Was the salesperson right? Amplifier question.
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 94
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From: Cedar Rapids
Vehicle: 2001 Elantra GLS
So I went to a local big name retailer to purchase a 2 x 10" subwoofer setup with amplifier. I decided on the Polk MM1040's since I liked their sound and price point. In terms of amplifiers I was aiming towards the Hifonics amp but the salesperson recommended Crunch amp. I was under the impression that class D amps were usually the best for subwoofers because of their efficiency producing power. However he told that this the Crunch amp would be better choice since it puts out more power and is also an A/B amp so it will have less distortion. I just wanted to get a second opinion, I've had bad experiences with this big retailers in the past so I took his suggestion with a grain of salt.
Polk Audio AA3104-A MM1040 10-Inch Subwoofer
4 OHMS, 350W RMS, 700W PEAK.
MM1040 Car Subwoofer from Polk Audio
Crunch Ground Pounder GPV2000.1 Maxx Watt Power A/B Class Mono Amplifier
1 x 500 W at 4 Ohms, 1 x 1000 W at 2 Ohms, 1 x 2000 W at 1 Ohm Maxx Power
Amazon.com: Crunch Ground Pounder GPV2000.1 Maxx Watt Power A/B Class Mono Amplifier (Silver): Electronics
Hifonics HFi1000 Hfi Series D-Class Mono Amplifier
1 x 475W @ 4 OHMS, 1 x 750W @ 2 OHMS, 1 x 1000W @ 1 OHM
Amazon.com: Hifonics HFi1000 Hfi Series D-Class Mono Amplifier 1 x 475 @ 4 OHMS, 1 x 750 @ 2 OHMS, 1 x 1000 @ 1 OHM: Electronics
Polk Audio AA3104-A MM1040 10-Inch Subwoofer
4 OHMS, 350W RMS, 700W PEAK.
MM1040 Car Subwoofer from Polk Audio
Crunch Ground Pounder GPV2000.1 Maxx Watt Power A/B Class Mono Amplifier
1 x 500 W at 4 Ohms, 1 x 1000 W at 2 Ohms, 1 x 2000 W at 1 Ohm Maxx Power
Amazon.com: Crunch Ground Pounder GPV2000.1 Maxx Watt Power A/B Class Mono Amplifier (Silver): Electronics
Hifonics HFi1000 Hfi Series D-Class Mono Amplifier
1 x 475W @ 4 OHMS, 1 x 750W @ 2 OHMS, 1 x 1000W @ 1 OHM
Amazon.com: Hifonics HFi1000 Hfi Series D-Class Mono Amplifier 1 x 475 @ 4 OHMS, 1 x 750 @ 2 OHMS, 1 x 1000 @ 1 OHM: Electronics
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,795
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From: Pflugerville, TX
Vehicle: 2000 Elantra
. . . bearing in mind that I have no idea about the particular amps in question . . .
Class D is more efficient, but unless you are comparing to Class A, the difference is probably less meaningful to your car than having a passenger and/or a full tank of gasoline adding weight. And an inefficient Class D could be beaten by a super efficient Class A/B. Distortion is a result of design, not class of operation. Besides which, unless you are sitting with the engine off in a garage, you probably wouldn't notice 10% THD, much less 1% or 0.001% or w/e they claim on their spec. sheets.
Class D is more efficient, but unless you are comparing to Class A, the difference is probably less meaningful to your car than having a passenger and/or a full tank of gasoline adding weight. And an inefficient Class D could be beaten by a super efficient Class A/B. Distortion is a result of design, not class of operation. Besides which, unless you are sitting with the engine off in a garage, you probably wouldn't notice 10% THD, much less 1% or 0.001% or w/e they claim on their spec. sheets.
What I would look into is current a cooling. If I go on a trip I want my system pounding anytime I ask, a/b's are not very common for high output with consistency.
Not to say it's wrong but I would be very skeptical.Noise and etc isn't a concern on subs but hook it too some co axials and see what happens. Low gain though remember.
Not to say it's wrong but I would be very skeptical.Noise and etc isn't a concern on subs but hook it too some co axials and see what happens. Low gain though remember.


