Questions About Powering Amps And Stuff
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From: Phoenix, AZ
^^ I'm about to graduate with a degree in electronics engineering and I'd have to agree with tibbytib. Yes, if you break an amplifier down into its most basic and essential portion, you will come out with Class A, AB, C and D. However, there is a TON of thought that goes into all the supporting circuitry. Buffering, switching frequencies, load matching, heat dissipation etc.
I can slap together a Class A audio amplifier, hook it up to my sub and it'll work - but I guarantee you it'll be way sub-par compared to a Class A audio amplifier designed by a team of engineers that took the time to plan, design, and test all the supporting circuitry. Just because two electronic devices perform the same function in no way means they are built the same. There about 1000 ways to do the same thing in electronics, each design with its own strengths and weaknesses.
As far as the original post, yeah get a higher rated alternator, extra battery and a cap, as has been mentioned in depth already.
I can slap together a Class A audio amplifier, hook it up to my sub and it'll work - but I guarantee you it'll be way sub-par compared to a Class A audio amplifier designed by a team of engineers that took the time to plan, design, and test all the supporting circuitry. Just because two electronic devices perform the same function in no way means they are built the same. There about 1000 ways to do the same thing in electronics, each design with its own strengths and weaknesses.
As far as the original post, yeah get a higher rated alternator, extra battery and a cap, as has been mentioned in depth already.
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From: Leesville, Louisiana
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^^^
I'm a tech. It's my job to look at schematics and maintain/fix/upgrade when the engineers don't have something perfected. If you're about to graduate engineer, then you should know that a company such as kicker or rockford fosgate does not make money by producing stuff that breaks. As far as amplifiers go, you've got your bias, gain and swamping resistors and a transistor of some sort. Really it breaks down to that. Sure there's a thousand ways you can do them, but no respectable company is going to do it a wrong way. Regardless of anything else. It comes down to the ability of the stages to react to the input from the bandpass without reaching saturation or cutoff.
Do you think a respectable audio company would allow their product to break, cutoff or saturate? It wouldn't happen, unless you buy road gear or some cheap product like that.
Dude, get off the hype bandwagon and realize that this same technology has been around for 20 years, the only changes are lower noise chips and quicker reaction times. You're about to be a electronics engineer for christ sake. you should be able to break down a amplifier in your head.
What kind of buffering would you use in a car audio amplifier? You talking about isolation?
If you really believe that nonsense , i'd like to see you make a class d amplifier that uses as much power as a class A but outputs the same wattage, in a electronically diciplined way. Heck, even a class AB amplifier that uses as much as a Class A.
This is getting very off topic. This is a discussion about powering amps and stuff. Before you look at a speciffic brand to buy, you need to decide what class amplifier you want. it's more important then the manufacturer of the amplifier in respect to power consumption. They won't engineer massive power usage into an amplifier. It's being used, just not efficiently. That has very little to do with manufacturer, but rather the class of amplifier.
maximum efficiencys:
Class A: 25%
Class B: 40%
Class AB: 40%
Class C: 90%
Class D: 95%
And that's my point about manufacturers don't matter. it's design.
I'm a tech. It's my job to look at schematics and maintain/fix/upgrade when the engineers don't have something perfected. If you're about to graduate engineer, then you should know that a company such as kicker or rockford fosgate does not make money by producing stuff that breaks. As far as amplifiers go, you've got your bias, gain and swamping resistors and a transistor of some sort. Really it breaks down to that. Sure there's a thousand ways you can do them, but no respectable company is going to do it a wrong way. Regardless of anything else. It comes down to the ability of the stages to react to the input from the bandpass without reaching saturation or cutoff.
Do you think a respectable audio company would allow their product to break, cutoff or saturate? It wouldn't happen, unless you buy road gear or some cheap product like that.
Dude, get off the hype bandwagon and realize that this same technology has been around for 20 years, the only changes are lower noise chips and quicker reaction times. You're about to be a electronics engineer for christ sake. you should be able to break down a amplifier in your head.
What kind of buffering would you use in a car audio amplifier? You talking about isolation?
If you really believe that nonsense , i'd like to see you make a class d amplifier that uses as much power as a class A but outputs the same wattage, in a electronically diciplined way. Heck, even a class AB amplifier that uses as much as a Class A.
This is getting very off topic. This is a discussion about powering amps and stuff. Before you look at a speciffic brand to buy, you need to decide what class amplifier you want. it's more important then the manufacturer of the amplifier in respect to power consumption. They won't engineer massive power usage into an amplifier. It's being used, just not efficiently. That has very little to do with manufacturer, but rather the class of amplifier.
maximum efficiencys:
Class A: 25%
Class B: 40%
Class AB: 40%
Class C: 90%
Class D: 95%
And that's my point about manufacturers don't matter. it's design.
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Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Leesville, Louisiana
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
250A alterntor should power your system directly off of the alternator with lots of extra power to spare for your vehical. 1F capacitor should be fine.
You could drop in 150A alternator and keep in mind that with capacitors, the bigger the better. I've seen 150F capacitors available. Also keep in mind that you can string caps in paralell, so if you have to, you can line up a bunch of 1F ebay capacitors. Without knowing exact specs on amp, a good number to shoot for would be 10F
You could drop in 150A alternator and keep in mind that with capacitors, the bigger the better. I've seen 150F capacitors available. Also keep in mind that you can string caps in paralell, so if you have to, you can line up a bunch of 1F ebay capacitors. Without knowing exact specs on amp, a good number to shoot for would be 10F
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2006
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my dad said this is becomin a hassle... little did i tell him i want to do it for sound comp lol smile.gif
i think im gonna find a 5 farad on ebay and i think that should do, i read somewhere its like 1 farad = 1000 watts, i mean i could always buy another if i need it but i dont think i will, thanks for the help, ill keep u posted on how everything goes along and if i run into anymore questions
i think im gonna find a 5 farad on ebay and i think that should do, i read somewhere its like 1 farad = 1000 watts, i mean i could always buy another if i need it but i dont think i will, thanks for the help, ill keep u posted on how everything goes along and if i run into anymore questions
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Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Leesville, Louisiana
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
I've never heard of someone running 2 alternators on a tiburon.
You may run into issues regarding physical size, mounting and you may want to consider hiring a professional to wire it into your electrical system.
Again, a 2nd battery is strictly a patch. It will charge when you're not using the system and it will discharge when you use the system. Eventually it will reach it's charge/discharge cycle limit and die.
You may run into issues regarding physical size, mounting and you may want to consider hiring a professional to wire it into your electrical system.
Again, a 2nd battery is strictly a patch. It will charge when you're not using the system and it will discharge when you use the system. Eventually it will reach it's charge/discharge cycle limit and die.