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Q for Tunez et al

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Old 08-02-2001, 07:15 AM
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Default Q for Tunez et al

My subs are getting pretty old and I want something new. At first I was going to get 2 12" Infinity Perfects.

Now I'm wondering if a 1 12" and 1 10" combination would work together? I've never seen a setup like that and would hope to achieve low end from the 12 and punchy mid-bass from the 10. I guess I'd need two seperate boxes and I don't know how to position them. Would it work? Thanks

[ August 02, 2001: Message edited by: skilspeed ]
Old 08-02-2001, 01:46 PM
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I know this was ment for Tunez but audio questions follow him and I can't help but to answer them too. If you get subs stay with the same size if you get one 10 and one 12 they will cancel eachothers low frequences wave out to put it into a picture take a d and a b cup bra now put them over each other the waves intertwine that is the same thing 2 different sub sizes will do. They will still give boom but not as much.
Old 08-02-2001, 03:10 PM
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QUOTE
Originally posted by Jaws99:
I know this was ment for Tunez but audio questions follow him and I can't help but to answer them too.

take a d and a b cup bra now put them over each other the waves intertwine


ROFLMAO!

Okay, that's definitely the "non-technical" way to put it!

Although to be completely precise, the frequencies that cancel will probably be about one semitone per octave, and the frequencies that add will be about the same. In short it'll sound like crap.


Now, all that being said, there *is* a way to make it work, but it's so wasteful as to be hardly worth mentioning. (Tunez/Jaws, et al, I'm simply playing Devil's advocate, here.) eek.gif

If you put a really steep crossover, -- at least 18 db/octave, and 24 would be better. Anyway, a really steep crossover, then you can get away with it. This is the same principle that allows you to use a 6.5" and a 4" to play midrange. The 6.5" plays mid-bass, and the 4" plays midrange.

In theory this setup would allow you to use the two different subs. The 12" could play 20Hz-40Hz, and the 10" could play 40Hz-80Hz. This gives each sub an octave to itself.

Now it's time for me to give you more reasons why this isn't such a hot idea...

First off, there is ALWAYS a phase shift when playing really low frequencies. This has to do with the physical construction of the speaker, and it's interaction with the box that it's in. No, there isn't anythign that you can do about it. This will mean that there is a phase shift at the crossover point. Even if you use the best crossover in the world, the speakers will most likely make it sound pretty bad. tongue.gif

Okay, let's say you've really done your homework, and you can make it fly. You've still wasted an awful lot of power.

The better way to get what it seems that you're looking for is a really good set of 6.5" or maybe even 8" mid-bass units, and make those work for you.

[ August 02, 2001: Message edited by: Dan ]
Old 08-02-2001, 11:09 PM
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Thanks for the information guys! I figured since I haven't seen it that it probably wouldn't work but I wanted to make sure before I spend the cash. I just don't want another heavy ass 12" box in my trunk.

I might just go with one well-rounded 12" or use a few 8" like Dan said.
Old 08-02-2001, 11:28 PM
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but see if you get a 10 and a 12 you can also have the two speakers working together all you need is a phaze control. you can mkae your speakers sound a lot louder then what they are if you get the phaze right.

a properlly tuned box and system and you shouldnt have any problems at all and you will get your punchy bass as well as teh deep bass.
Old 08-02-2001, 11:32 PM
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I used three JL 12w6's for my lows and for my mids I put a JL 8w0 in each door with an MB Quartz x-over and a clarion tweeter to the top left in the same door about 3 inches away from each other and it sounds great the last competion I was in I hit 150.2 db's with this set up and I paid $15 bucks to run threw with the 8's shut off (just for shi%s and giggles) and I hit 141.4 so they did make a big difference




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