well, i know its probably weird to see me posting in the ICE thread, but i was going to fix my amp to possibly sell it and want a few ICE veterans opinions..

the amp just kinda went off one day, and it blew my subs.. it seemed like it was a loose connection, and today when i opened up the amp, the little thing that the bass boost controller plugs into was loose and the connections were apart.

to a non electronics person like myself, i would assume since one thing was off in the connection, it would make the whole amp not work cuz the whole open loop theory..

i believe when i had it hooked up in my car last, that the protection light stayed on put the amp wouldnt power on.

the amp has 3 30amp fuses, and none of them are blown. the insides of the amp don't smell burnt or anything..

just asking for opinions before i try fixing this SOB..

when i pulled it out today, i really missed the nice bumps that i used to have back there 02.gif i had this amp working hard overtime for about 3 years until the connection wobbled off.

 

If your any-good at soldering give it a go and re-solder the rheostat(bass boost) and also look at the capacitor's sometimes BASS can shake the sh!t out of your amps. I yell at all my Friends when they screw their amps to there box...

 

those big lanzar amps are boss, i would fix and then use that amp to power some serious rumble. i had that happen to me with my gold and chrome audiobahn 2400watt, but it didnt blow the sub it just went into protection and stoped working. i had someone look at it they said that the chipboard needed cleaning and some thing needed resoddered.


look into it because i slept on a big lanzar and i'm allways trying to buy that thing back so i can start working on a back-up system for when i get a second car someday.

 

alright, ill look into fixing it.. i had it powering two 12" kicker comp VR subs at 2 ohms, and being it is a monoblock one channel amp, it sounded amazing. that combo hit so clean and hard.. got pretty loud too.

 

Don't even bother checking capacitors. there's 2 things that go wrong on amplifiers..

1. stuff you touch frequently, gets moved by something else, or gets abused.
2. MOSFET transistors

Yours is in the 1st catagory. If you see a loose connection, hit it with some solder. Most likely your amp's input gain is running through the bass boost control and you currently have no gain at all because of the open connection.

My favorite "open" troubleshooting technique is to move the connection to see if it fixes the problem. The worst thing you're going to do is make it more visible.

Another thing, clean out your amplifier while it's open or it will overheat and you'll have a problem in catagory 2.

But make sure you ground yourself to the nearest piece of housing metal or whatever connects the housing ground to the circuit board. The reason for grounding is catagory 2. Static electricity will blow up MOSFETs easily. It only takes 2000 volts to blow up a mosfet. Static can reach 70,000 volts.

So, ground yourself the entire time, clean it with air and a paintbrush, then solder the connections, and put it back together correctly.

I'm not saying it's not possible to have a problem other then those two, but 95% of the time it will be one of those two things.

 

well when the amp was turning off and on for a while, wiggling that connection made it turn back on until the piece completely broke off..

ill try it tomm. im not that good with soldering though 02.gif

 

It's easy with the proper tools. As long as the solder broke, you can pull it out with a $5 desoldering bulb or $3 desoldering wick from radio shack. Then you put the control back in and resolder it. Don't desolder the joint if the metal portion of the control broke off. It's not as bad as you think. The only thing you have to 'worry' about is getting solder all over. You can use a desoldering bulb/wick to remove solder.

Desoldering- heat up the solder joint, squeeze the desoldering bulb, hold it up to the melted metal and release it quickly. It might fly out of your hands, but who cares.... It's got the solder to be removed inside it. If it clogs, just use a pin or something to declog it. Make sure that you remove the iron as soon as you release the bulb. This will give it time to cool.

... or if you use a wick, you just lay the wick over the joint and heat the wick. The solder will be sucked into the brades of the wick and out of the hole, but the bulb would be the best option for starters.


Soldering- Tin the tip of the soldering iron so it has a light coat of solder to make a heat bridge to whatever you're soldering. Stick the desoldered control back into it's origonal position, heat the leads of the control from one side and apply the solder from the other. This will ensure that it is heated enough to bond and make a good connection. When it melts, you'll see a puff of smoke. count to 1 and remove the heat and solder. If you need to go back and do it again, do it. Don't overheat your workpiece. Don't use more solder then the manufacturer used because they know what they were doing. If you use too much it will make it more difficult to work on and also make it more liable to short.

If any part of the control broke off, hit it last. Try to make a good bond between the two pieces of metal.

So.. yeah.. it's easy to solder and easier to desolder. You just got to remember, solder is not a wire replacement or a way to make something more stable. Gluing a control to the circuit board will make it more stable. Solder is a joint between two pieces of metal, just like welding.

 

thanx DTN..

cuz i dont feel comfortable soldering and all that crap, im getting is professionally done at my dads work for the usual price i pay for work and parts.. 0$ w00t..

 

dang socks.... I guess I was lucky because my dad made me learn to solder at the age of 9. It seems really simple to me.

 

yeah, i have no problem with it, i just dont wanna mess it up, im used to soldering wires, not a 1mm circle onto a circuit board. and he offered, so misewell know its getting done right,lol.