StrikeEagle

I recently bought a power inverter, and am needing some guidance on how to wire it. The inverter I got is here. Quick specs: 400watt cont. 800w peak, 2 AC receptacles.
Things I'm planning on doing or need to know:

1. I plan on hard wiring it, but where should I get the power from? I was hoping to get it from the foot well fuse box, but I don't think I can install any more fuses in there. I've also considered getting a new feed directly from the battery too.
2. It requires a 75amp fuse which I'd like to have in the foot well fuse box, but like before, I'm not sure I can do that. Only other option is installing an inline one, any good places to get one of those?
3. I'd like to have it hooked up to a switch as I have 2 extra switches mounted in my arm rest console. Only problem is the rating of the switch, I'm not sure it would handle the power. Specs on the switch are "Rated at 10A at 125VAC or 6A at 250VAC. Since I'm running DC power through it, would they be able to handle? Also, since there's already sort of a switch on the inverter, is another switch necessary?
4. I'm planning on mounting it under the passenger seat and bolting it in place. I'll probably have two 1ft extension cords plugged in all the time to make it a lot easier to access, since there's that bar thing on the floor in the way and getting at it may be a bit tricky.

I think that pretty well covers it, so any advice or other things I need to know would be super helpful. I mainly want to know some good ideas for powering it, and where to get that power from.

DTN

DON'T DO IT LIKE THAT!!111!11one!!1shift+11!!!Exclamation Point!!!!!!

You'll end up upgrading a fuse and burning your wiring up. The only way to install this is to run a 2AWG power line directly from the battery.


Install a HIGH power 70A relay somewhere along the line, with a fuse tap to power it like a remote line. link relay: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail...LZSfxWBEA%3d%3d

Get a fuse tap from advanced auto parts to turn on the relay from the passenger fuse box.

Your other option is to get a circuit breaker.

Don't forget to install a 70A fuse on the power line somewhere


This is an EXTREME draw of power from your car. You'll be lucky if you don't destroy your alternator. Be warned, your alternator only makes 90A at 14.6V maximum. This will draw more then 3/4 of the power your car makes. Even a capacitor won't help too much. That's alot of power you're pulling. You should make sure everything is done right or it could end up badly.

Personally, I installed a smaller 300W power inverter. It's about what the car can handle.

StrikeEagle

Hehe, hence why I asked...

To keep it a bit more simple and avoid the fuse box and relays, how about this - run a 2awg wire directly from the battery to a remote 75A fuse (probably in the engine bay somewhere), then continue it straight to the power inverter. Avoid all fuse boxes, just use one inline, like this, or this, and mount it somewhere partly accessible. Would this be feasible?

I don't plan on maxing out the inverter at all, probably just use it to charge things (phone, laptop, ipod, etc) or for other small appliances. I don't intend to hook up too much to it... I will be more careful now that you've mentioned it.

radu_rd2

Make sure the fuse is not too far from the battery, the portion of the wire up to the fuse is not protected by the fuse

Tiburonmoo

Just out of curiousity, how did you know what size fuse you need? Is there some kind of formula for it or did they just tell you?

optimoprime

i have my power inverter wired directly to my second battery in the trunk. the inverter i have has its own fuses built in so if it gets to be too much it has a buzzer and will warn you.

StrikeEagle

Moo, it said directly on there that if I hardwire it, I'm supposed to use a 75 amp fuse.
It does have its own fuses, but I don't think they're for the incoming power, just outgoing.
It also has the alligator clips for the battery as well as a cigarette lighter plug, so I'm guessing it won't draw too killer much power all the time...
Any thoughts on my question 3, about the switch? Will the one I have be enough to handle those kinds of loads, and is it even necessary?

DTN

Max Wattage / 12V +10% = fuse amps

StrikeEagle

^^ Yeah, 800w/12v + 10% = 73amps, cool!
So continuous power draw would be half that (400w continuous, 800 is peak), or ~35amps, which is only about a third of what the alternator is capable of. That makes me feel better...

The positive wire I'll pull straight from the battery terminal (with a 75amp fuse right next to it) and go to the inverter. But for the negative wire, would it be best if I ran that all the way back to the battery or could I just find a chassis ground? I don't mind going back to the battery if I have to, just need to know if I should. I'm planning on doing the Big 3 upgrade (my HID issue), so I'll have better grounds and terminals, but not sure if that's enough for that much power.

Tiburonmoo

If your doing the Big 3 then a chassis ground point should be fine I'd assume.