Hondas Suck

well, i know for a fact i am going with 1 10" kicker solo-baric in my trunk, question is what kind of head unit, amp, and inside speakers shall i get for a hyundai elantra ??

redturbulance

Hey why don't you buy my Kicker ZR600 with the sub module in it and put the full 853 watts into your 10". That would be awesome. I hooked this amp up to a 10" in Kickers new truck box thingy(it looks plastic). Anyway it slammed like no other.

haha

I guess a mono block would do the trick. I would look into dei if you want to get a good mono block that would push that 10 for a low price.

Good luck

Jaws99

JL Audio just came out with a new line of amps and have a sweet mono amp it's more powerful than an equivilent Fosgate and cleaner than an Alpine amp. You might thow want to do your homework on the solobaric before you get it reason being is they are designed only to be put in a ported or vented encloser and they are need plenty of internal volume which means the box will be huge and may not fit in the trunk or take it all up you could put it in a sealed enclosure they give specs for one but they sound like a&* I don't want to discorage you but I thought I would give you a heads up I've have history with installing these subs and did the math for my Tib for one 15 and it took up the whole back an would have came into the passenger compartment and I know the elantras have less room to work with but if you get it done props to you.

Jaws99

My bad on the sub I though for some reason (brain fart) you were talking about a cerwin vega stroker so forget anything I said about the size of the enclosure and the space it needs. Sorry

Y2KTIBLTD

I've got a Solo-Baric 15" DVC in my trunk and it slams. It is in a sealed box that I believe is 2.0 cubic feet internal. I am currently just running my JBL Mono sub amp to it which puts out 600 Watts. But I can set off car alarms from across the street. This is one of the cleanest and loudest sub I have ever heard. It plays really, really, really, really, really deep too! But the transistion on it between low and mid bass is pretty crappy. In other words the ultra low tunes from a bass cd will pop open your gas cap, but the more mid bass stuff (like some rock music) will sound pretty weak in comparison.
Sorry about the long post.

bragger29

how many watt amp should power the 15" solo baric? I saw your 15", and I was considering doing it before, but I didn't think it would fit! Now I saw you do it I got a green light!

bragger29

oh yeah, Y2K, did you change your other speakers?

Hondas Suck

how much did you pay for your sub and box???

SupraGuy

As much as you can afford.

15" subs tend to be very efficient, so they will make for a lot of boom on low power. It takes lots of power and lots of headroom for cone control, though, so even though you can get a lot of SOUND out of a 15" sub with low power, the extra power is there to make it sound good. It can also make it louder, but that's a matter of taste. smile.gif

Now if the sub is from a good manufacturer, the efficiency will be rated at 1w/1m in dBA. A 10" sub typically ranges from 86-92dB efficiency. 15" subs typically range from 90-97dB. That means that if you run 1W to that sub, you will have the rated volume SPL at 1 meter from the speaker cone. You can see that the 15" sub will produce a lot more sound!

How much more? Well, let's take a Kicker 10" solo-baric. It has an efficiency rating of 88 dB. The 15" has a rating of 90dB (Note that this is really inefficient for a 15" sub!) the 10" sub will require almost DOUBLE the amount of amplifier power to reach the same SPL level. Or you will need 2 10" speakers with the same amount of power each to get the same SPL level. (Doubling the power or the number of speakers will net an increase of 3dB.) So 100W RMS into the 15" will yield about the same SPL as about 180W RMS into the 10".

So what's the trade-off? The 15" sub has more moving mass, which requires more power from the amplifier to control. If you are running near the edge of the amplifier's output limits, the bass will get sloppy, real fast, because the amplifier doesn't have the extra power required to properly control the speaker cone. That extra power is called "headroom" and is a VERY GOOD THING to have lots of it. In addition, the rule of thumb is that the more efficient the subwoofer, the more airspace it needs inside it's enclosure to play low. That's why a 10" will play well in a 0.66 ft^3 enclosure, while the 15 requires 1.5 ft^3 (More than double) the airspace for the same effect.

There are 15" subs out there that need up to 6 ft^3 to do the same thing (But if you give it enough power, it'll shake the fillings from your teeth!)

Y2KTIBLTD

Kicker suggests that you push 1000 Watts to it. I would love to get a good clean 1200 watts going to it. No I kept my factory speaker for now. But I had the 6-speaker option with the satelitte tweets. The price I think I got ripped on but it sounds awsome so here goes. I paid $450 for the sub and $300 for the box. The box is REALLY heavy and is a double layer on the sub side. It's virtually non-resonant. Or so I was told. I've also been told that Solo-Baric have actually blown the sides apart on Q-Logic boxes and the likes. But I'm assuming that is when they are driven to their max. rolleyes.gif