Libby.Tibby

So I'm looking to upgrade the stereo in my tib, and have been trying to decide what components I'll get to do so. I'm stuck though, when it comes to the sub. I'm currently debating between between using the Alpine PLT-5 LAT powered sub enclosure, or getting a set of 12" subs and a separate amp. If I get the separate components, I'd build my own box, and their power ratings would be similar to the LAT.

Has anyone seen/heard these LAT systems in action? The reviews on Crutchfield were good, but there wasn't much technical info on the system either, so I'm still a little sketched out by it.

Here's a link:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ApcIIjfBVzB/A....aspx?i=500PLT5

radu_rd2

It seems a little underpowered at 250W. You can get an Alpine Type-R sub, an enclosure and a Power Acoustik 400W RMS @ 2 ohm amp for less than 300$ at sonicelectronix. On the other hand, the reviews seem fantastic..

Dark Shark

Ive been looking around the internet for more info on this model, and all I can find are good things. I saw one bad review about not enough bass but it was from a guy with a Suburban, who is an idiot for buying such a small setup for such a huge vehicle.

Im seriously considering getting one of these as well TBH. I want something with a small foot print, decent kick with good SQ which these seem to deliver. The claim is that they put out as much as 2 10" subwoofers, which most everyone seems to agree with. Plus they're real unique which is a plus for me.

I'm looking around a bit more, but I just might pick these up at that price...

DTN

Get separate components. That's a truck setup. We're talking about a car. Get a nice heavy box and a big speaker. Bolt the amplifier to the rear seat with sheet metal screws. It's a much nicer setup for a Tib. You'll need to move much more air in a Tiburon's cockpit then a truk cab.

You'll need 300W or more to have a noticably better setup to go with the stock system. Word of advice: get a class D amplifier as it will save your alternator by it's extreme efficiency.

For that price, you could go to Alpine stereo in Missoula and buy a 400W amplifier, 12" subwoofer and an enclosure. Don't waste your money. I like Alpine stereo, I miss home too.

Dark Shark

I still have a Kicker Comp CVR 12 in a rhino-lined hatchback ProBox just sitting in my room from my last seperate component setup. I took it apart and sold the amp because I always get tired of having no space in the trunk.

This is compact and delivers alot. In the reviews on Crutchfield one of the guys was going on about how great the bass was and his was installed in a Jeep Grand Cherokee.... ALOT more airspace than the Tib. I just need my trunkspace, and im not gonna build an enclosure for subs to fit in the sides of the trunk.

DTN

I'm sure it sounded decent in a grand cherokee, but it would not be much of an upgrade. You just can't move enough air to get a back message from 250W. You're going to hear it, but not really feel it.

Dark Shark

I thought the same thing, 250W? thats nothing. But it is a different design than any other. Who knows how efficient this design is unless you hear it for yourself... Read the reviews, there's alot of success with using these outside of truck applications, and they say they can really feel it. I figure what the hell, I might as well try it. Ill return em if Im not fully satisfied, and then Ill at least be able to have tried something different...

If you really want to know about the technology, heres a link to a magazine review of the big brother of this enclosure: Alpine LAT Enclosure

It's cool stuff cool.gif

Libby.Tibby

As for the online reviews:
The only bad one on Crutchfield is the 'Burb person, and I agree that it was really their own fault. I've also seen a poor review floating around online from other sources, but it's barely legible and I haven't given it much credit. Don't remember where it was, but a google search should find it.

People seem to agree that it 'sounds like a pair of 10s,' but that doesn't really say a whole lot. Dark Shark: That review was very helpful, thanks!

DTN: I was thinking the same thing about them being designed for a truck, but as DS pointed out, other's have reported good luck with similar applications. I'm still up in the air about that aspect of these speakers.

Concerning the size:
This might be useful for you Dark Shark. I made a cardboard mockup to better visualize the size of these things, and they are freakin tiny for subs. Here's a pic of the mockup in the back of my car:

Since my GF will likely be driving this car as much as me, I'd like to be sure that the subs are either easy for her to take out, or that they'll not be in her way when she needs to use the cargo area. If I build a custom enclosure, It's probably going to span the whole width of the car, and it'll be a lot harder for her to pull it out. I also figure if I changed my mind later, this thing should drop into about any other vehicle pretty easily.


As for the power:
First off, I'm not looking for a super-bassy, or super-loud setup. My goal is to keep everything clean and well balanced. I'd also like to keep all the speakers/amps Alpine (or at least the same brand). With that in mind, would 250W still be underpowered? Here's what I'm looking at getting currently:

Front:
Alpine SPS-600C
Type S, 6.5" components
2-80 watts RMS
88 dB sensitivity

Rear:
Alpine SPR-69C
Type R, 6x9" 2-ways
2-100 watts RMS
89 dB sensitivity

Amp for F&R:
Alpine MPR-F250
40 Watts RMS x 4 channels

This will be the first time I've done an install with more than one amp. I know that the 100W amp & low end rockfords I had in my last car was more than enough to balance out the replacement speakers powered by the deck. Based on the ratings above, what would be the optimal power range for the subs? Again, I don't want my bass over-emphasized, just clean and well balanced.

Thanks for all your input!

holeshot69

Alright dude this seems to be kindof a build thread so I'll chip in with some comon knowledge.

For your system do you plan on using factory spaces? If so don't expect a great deal in return. Dramatic change from stock absolutley. However the facory locations are not ideal, why, because in short, you sit in front of them!!! Also sound has what is called phase or time period. I won't get into detail but it has to do with how the sound will reach your ears in relation to time. You do not sit in the center of the car therefore the timing is not ideal.

However not everyone is an audiophile smile.gif So what I will say is get your self some seperates for your front. That being the woofer and seperate tweet combo. The move to the 6x9 coaxial setup in the rear. For the amp just get a 4 channel man! DTN was suggesting a D class amp wich is very smart aswell. However since some four channel amps come with a designated last channel for a sub the let her go!

I get the idea of space.The box you are looking into is in short a bandpass encloure type. These are good to a point. The only reason I would think about it is because Alpine built it. What I'd rather see you do is source a set of thin line drivers. Man these things can pound sound awsome and hardly need any volume in comparison to a regular sub. Lots of main stream companys make'm should be easy to source.

I would never try to sell you on any brand label unless you were in my store. So as far as that go to a local shop see who is worth doing bussiness with.Not all shops are equal man.

Lastly remember when you do a build it's 20% product 80% install man. That in mind let us know what peices you pick so we can help with a nice setup.

Libby.Tibby

Please read my LAST POST! I already listed the other speakers that I had in mind.

The front speakers are components... aka, separates.
The rear speakers are 2-ways, and yes, they are coax. They also have pivoting tweets, to help improve the soundstage.
The amp is a four channel... hence 40W x4



I do plan on using those spaces, and expect only the improvement that the higher quality speakers will be able to provide. I am aware that I could drastically improve my soundstage by altering the location/placement/mounting for these speakers, but I would rather keep a clean installation that appears stock. Either way, the mounting of the front/rear speakers is off topic.

Thanks for your post. It sounds like you definitely could have some helpful input; but please read the previous posts.