My alarm is about 95% done. The only problems remaining are that active rearm is stuck on, and I'm also getting a trouble warning alert from something. This alarm is a really old crimestopper cs-9228mx, and active rearm is not a programming thing. It has to do with how the system is wired. Im hoping that the trouble warning alert has to do with the active rearm staying on, and that it will fix itself when I can finally get the active rearm to turn off. I know its active rearm, and not passively arming as well. I am an alarm n00b, and I do find myself doing things like trying to arm with the trunk open. I am pretty good as far as electronics go however, its just my first alarm install. All connections were soldered and heat shrunk.

On to the pictures. One is the page from my alarm install manual that describes active rearm. I am using the auxilary relay in my alarm brain, and have it hooked up just like the diagram that is cricled. The other is a schematic of the door/dome light circuit, with little notes on where things are hooked up. I originally had the (-) from the dome light output activated relay directly on the door trigger wire(as pictured in the crimestopper diagram), but the dome light would not turn on. I moved it to where you see on the schematic and the dome lights turn on fine now. As you can see in the schematic, practically every one of my lights in my car are leds, and I know that may be affecting things in some way. If you have any questions please ask me. I know I may have left some thigns out.

 

Is it just me or are there no pictures here lol?

 

yep, no pix

 

bah, i got 3 hours of sleep last night. here are the pics:




thanks fellas. cool.gif

 

I think it has to do with the constant voltage drop provided by the LED.

Car voltage = 14.6
to disable active alarm = (gustimated) 12-14.6V

with LEDs and diode you can only get maximum of 10.2 (even with 14.6V applied and ground switched off ) assuming it is just 1 blue LED in your lamps.

Possible fixes:

FIX1 : move power takeoff to a point before the LEDs

FIX2 : put a 1 MegaOhm resistor in paralell with the LEDs

FIX3 : change to incandescants (might want to try this to verify the voltage drop problem first)

 

would power have anything to do with it though? they are (-) triggers, so shouldn't they just need to see ground to trigger?

 

might be + triggered holdoff. I don't understand the purpose of the diode, that will make your lights dimmer and put .7 at all times on the control pin of the alarm. did you try connecting the pink wire to both 12V and ground? it's not exactally clear documentation.

 

that pink wire is an input for the internal aux. relay. i guess i could try hooking it to power, but i dont really think that would work. the dome light circuit gets switched on when the doors open and the pin switches go to ground.

i dont think im even going to worry about it at this point. i want my tib back.

and now im having extremely high voltage problems when the car is running. around 12.5-13 when it is off, f***in 16 when its idling. im so pissed...and its already fried one and now part of another new microwave sensor. this one still has some range, but you can tell it has been decreased. AR15firing.gif

doing the little things like wiring up relays so that the microwave sensor doesnt trigger when the windows are automatically rolling up is driving me nuts.

i will be soooooo glad when this is done and i get to tinker with mechanical things. these pretty wilwood calipers are just sitting here waiting for me to devote some time to them.


/rant. i feel better now.

 

dude... 12.5 -13.0v off and 14.6V running is standard... 16 is fuxin nuts. shock.gif did you reverse emf protect all your relays? Do you have a capacitor somewhere in your vehical that is not connected between ground and battery? have you replaced your voltage regulator? Do your LEDs still work?

I'd rewire the entire setup and make sure your relays and capacitors are rigged up correctly throughout the vehical.

 

no caps anywhere. relays have a diode across coil. i think it just got severly drained, and the alternator is overcharging it or something. when i start it, its usually with help from a 8 amp charger. im doing a trickle charge tonight and hopefully that lowers the voltage a bit. i dont know, we shall see.