Red

I didn't get to rip the head OFF the motor and take pictures of the combustion chambers et al... But I did get to rip off the valve cover, strip off the intake cam and snap a few pics of the new solid shim design that has replaced the HLA's.

http://www.fxtreme.org/members/Red/cap_025.jpg(71kb) This is the 2001 Elantra motor in question, which suffers from a slight rod knock at 3000 RPMs and above.</a> It is guessed that the #2 rod bearing was dirty at the factory, and the dirt ate through the bearing after only a few thousand miles... In that picture, I've already stripped the valve cover off.

http://www.fxtreme.org/members/Red/cap_026.jpg(91kb) Here is a close up of the parts under the valve cover -- looks basically the same as the current lineup.</a>

http://www.fxtreme.org/members/Red/cap_027.jpg(82kb) Another close up of the cams and lifters... Can you see the difference yet?</a>

http://www.fxtreme.org/members/Red/cap_030.jpg(81kb) A much closer view with the intake cam off, looking at four valve stem contacts... </a> Two without the shims, two with the shims. The valve spring, retainer, and valve stem length must have been redesigned, because the entire spring/retainer/valve assembly seems to stand taller than before.

http://www.fxtreme.org/members/Red/cap_028.jpg(54kb) Two of the shims by themselves, right-side up. </a>

http://www.fxtreme.org/members/Red/cap_029.jpg(65kb) The same shims, but with one of them upside down so you can see what's underneath...</a> The shim face is actually very thin, maybe 1/8th of an inch.

And other misc crap that I snapped pics of goes here (hehehe)

http://www.fxtreme.org/members/Red/cap_031.jpg(70kb) In the foreground, a grenaded Santa Fe motor that blew a rod while the owner was accelerating to 75mph on a freeway onramp.</a> The motor freeze was so sudden that it shredded the timing belt.

http://www.fxtreme.org/members/Red/cap_033.jpg (64kb) And here is the rod in question...</a> One of the rod-bolt nuts wasn't on tight from the factory, and let go while the engine (see above) was trying to kick ass. This is the result sad.gif The remaining pieces of the rod are either still attatched/embedded in the piston, or in the cylinder walls. Ouch...

http://www.fxtreme.org/members/Red/cap_032.jpg(74kb) A shelled Elantra transmission, or actually a differential.</a> The pinion pin (that's what Dan said it was called wink.gif ) let go, and allowed the pinion gear to roll out and begin eating the tranny casing. After a certain point, the tranny casing cracked and eventually shattered. eek.gif

http://www.fxtreme.org/members/Red/cap_034.jpg(74kb) And finally, a block from a 1.5L Accent.</a> This one may be on the "auction block" soon, as Hyundai suggested replacing the shortblock for a misfire issue. After the shortblock replacement didn't fix it (duh) they decided to now swap heads. Who knows if that will fix it or not, but now this little Accent block is likely scrap heap material... Perhaps if I get enough interest, I'll try talking them into letting me sell it too.

So there ya go. HLA's are hasta-la-taco on the new motors, and have been replaced with solid shims. As for the combustion chambers and exhaust ports, it still looks like there is a 90-degre bend on the exhaust side, which makes me believe the combustion chamber overall shape hasn't changed.

Questions / Comments welcome.

-Red-

Iago

Capability for retro-fitting to earlier Betas?

4doorGL

So the solid shims will remove all the limitations we were having because of the HLA's, right?

I think I'll be trying to find an Elantra GT motor for my swap rather than a Tib.

Red

The block itself is identical between all 1G and 2G BETA motors, only the internal parts have changed. This new 2G head will directly bolt onto a 1G block without issue.

I don't know if the Elantra GT uses the same head, you may want to double-check with your dealer beforehand. This motor is from a standard Elantra (non-GT) 2001 model (a VERY new 2001 model) so it may be the 1/2 year where they switched designs.

If it is a 2001 1/2 model change, then the GT may have the new head. Does the GT run on a MAF or MAP sensor, as I'm guessing they have switched this head along with the MAP conversion at the same time.

The solid shim design should eliminate all the problems with HLA's exploding/collapsing at high RPM's or under severe-duty cams. If you're wanting to aim for strictly N/A performance, this head is for you. I will likely be keeping my HLA setup, as I don't need to rev high to attain insane horsepower wink.gif

-Red-

[ August 20, 2001: Message edited by: Red ]

4doorGL

The GT has MAP based sensors.

:: skilspeed ::

Red,

Do you have any pics of an HLA? I'd like to see one compared to the shim. I recall you saying it's like a "membrane" but I can't visualize it at all. thanks

Red

I have a couple of pictures, but my damn internet ISP webspace provider beyotch is still down sad.gif

If you have about 10 quarters and stack them up, that's about the right size. The HLA is a shim, but it has a groove that goes around the side with a few pinholes in it. The oil is fed in through these pinholes, and that groove pushes the shim apart (to make it thicker based on oil pressure)

The top of the HLA touches the cam lobes, the bottom of the HLA touches the valve stem -- just like a shim would. But the HLA starts out being thicker than a shim (by a large margin) because it needs all the little mechanics inside to work.

Thus, I'm thinking the new head also uses longer valve stems, taller valve springs, and likely different retainers to keep it all togehter. This is because the new shim design has much less "thickness" between the valve stem and the cam lobe, so something had to move a bit...

-Red-

4doorGL

Ok, you're talking about how with the solid shims you have to service the valves every 15K miles.

What all goes into servicing the valves? I hit 15K miles about every 1 1/2 years or so, so it wouldn't be that big of a problem. When I do the swap, I plan on going turbo, but no MaDD BooST like you. I'll probably use a T25 and keep boost down around 5psi daily, 8-10psi for racing, then build the motor for more power that I want.

But then again, I change my mind daily. HEhe.

Random

I noticed they finally got rid of that damn coolant line that runs behind the exhaust. It also appears that the head is "taller" than the first gen head. Those exhaust ports look lower than my head, or is it just the photo angles. I don't suppose you got a chance to get a shot INSIDE either the exhaust or intake ports? I'm wondering how the design/shape compares to the existing motor I have.

[ August 20, 2001: Message edited by: Random ]