Tibby Is Going Under The Knife Soon!
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Vehicle: 2010 Hyundai Accent
Well im going turbo soon and want my car being in better mechanical condition than it is now for when the boost arrives. So that being said Ive bought a low mileage beta I motor and tranny. The motor has 48k on it and I payed ~$346 for that including tax and core charge and bought a 1.8 5speed tranny for ~$284(tax and core charge included) So hopefully I can get all my turbo stuff done and jus drop it in. Only things I need now are my PnP megasquirt ecu and upgraded clutch. Maybe some lightweight pullies; if they are even beneficial.
So would you suggest changing the timing belt while its out or jus check the condition of it and see if its still in time? Lemme know what your thoughts are, thanks.
So would you suggest changing the timing belt while its out or jus check the condition of it and see if its still in time? Lemme know what your thoughts are, thanks.
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Vehicle: 2006 Pontiac GTO
Great deals on the motor and tranny! It would be much easier doing the timing belt while it's out, so I would do it..
I recommend the ACT 6-puck clutch, I have it and it is great (I have the sprung one)
Make sure you change the axle seals on the tranny to avoid fluid leaks, new ones are a few bucks and might save you some headache
I recommend the ACT 6-puck clutch, I have it and it is great (I have the sprung one)
Make sure you change the axle seals on the tranny to avoid fluid leaks, new ones are a few bucks and might save you some headache
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Vehicle: 2012 mitsubishi eclipse spyder gs, 2001 hyundai tiburon
I'd take the time, now, to check over every little part that may break on you or be worn out. Timing belt, thermostat, spark plugs, etc.
Many of these parts are inexpensive and would save an azz-load of grief if any of them were worn, broken, whatever. The old saying still holds true... the chain is only as strong as it's weakest link.
Plus as mentioned above, they'll be much easier to do with the block out of the car.
Many of these parts are inexpensive and would save an azz-load of grief if any of them were worn, broken, whatever. The old saying still holds true... the chain is only as strong as it's weakest link.
Plus as mentioned above, they'll be much easier to do with the block out of the car.
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Vehicle: 2000 Hyundai Tiburon
as everyone else has said, change it now. especially if you're going turbo, put a low temp thermostat in, check my diy for the part number, its only like $10
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Thanks for the responses. Ive thought bout lowering the compression with turbo head gasket but kinda figured that would be a bad idea cuz I think I read that they are prone to blowing since they are thicker.... But does anyone think that I should actually invest in the lightweight pullies? I have the ACT street disk setup that holds 236 tq but am thinking bout jus upgrading to the 6 puck sprung one, or should I go with unsprung? Now bout the timing belt, should I jus use like an autozone one (example) or invest in an OEM one?
*off topic* does anyone know the thread sizing on the bolts that bolt the tranny to the block? Kinda need to know so I can put the motor on an engine stand. (none came with the motor)
*off topic* does anyone know the thread sizing on the bolts that bolt the tranny to the block? Kinda need to know so I can put the motor on an engine stand. (none came with the motor)
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If you have the engine out, changing the pulleys will be easier so I would do it depending on price. It will make the engine 'lighter', in that it will accelerate faster in lower gears (I noticed the difference), and it will be faster to match the revs when you downshift. See if you can find lighter pulleys for cheap, I got a good deal on a used OBX set and has been working fine.
About the clutch and head gasket - it depends on how much you plan to boost. For like 8-10psi, the street disk should be sufficient. For more I'd get the 6-puck. For less than ~12psi you can keep stock compression and not bother with the head gasket.
About the clutch and head gasket - it depends on how much you plan to boost. For like 8-10psi, the street disk should be sufficient. For more I'd get the 6-puck. For less than ~12psi you can keep stock compression and not bother with the head gasket.
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Vehicle: 2001 hyundai tiburon
i did notice a difference when i installed my lightweight pullies.
but noticed the most when i did my megan header with the apexi all at once.
but noticed the most when i did my megan header with the apexi all at once.
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Hmm so I should prolly invest in some. Well if I can find a good enough deal then I will. Radu, where your OBX's the stock size or smaller? Cant the beta head handle like 15psi with no problem?
I bought a 1.8 tranny like stated, but jus now noticed something. In the front of the bell housing, there is a chunk missing. Bout the size of a quarter. Now should I swap the bell housing on my 2.0 tranny or jus maybe JB weld the hole? Or should I even worry at all? Thanks.
I bought a 1.8 tranny like stated, but jus now noticed something. In the front of the bell housing, there is a chunk missing. Bout the size of a quarter. Now should I swap the bell housing on my 2.0 tranny or jus maybe JB weld the hole? Or should I even worry at all? Thanks.
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My OBX crank pulley was underdrive (smaller). The water pump and power steering pulleys were stock size. You can just get the crank pulley, i don't think the water pump and ps pulleys yield that much benefit. Check this out http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-Underdr...sQ5fAccessories
The HEAD can handle 15 psi lol But you're probably gonna get a lot of detonation at 15 psi with stock compression (very risky). You can probably run 15psi with a turbo gasket that decreases compression.. but you'll be close to the limit of what the stock internals can physically handle in terms of power.
How could you 'swap' the bellhousing?? I would JB weld it, but it's probably a sign that something went terribly wrong, hope that tranny is ok..
The HEAD can handle 15 psi lol But you're probably gonna get a lot of detonation at 15 psi with stock compression (very risky). You can probably run 15psi with a turbo gasket that decreases compression.. but you'll be close to the limit of what the stock internals can physically handle in terms of power.
How could you 'swap' the bellhousing?? I would JB weld it, but it's probably a sign that something went terribly wrong, hope that tranny is ok..