Hi...

I just installed an Air/Fuel Gauge in my RD1... I check all the conections and specially the sensor wire. I include an O2 sensor with 1 wire configuration (it doesn't had heater)... The O2 sensor its new made in USA for GM cars... Ok... I need to know if i had any problem right now, for example, when my car is ideling between 800 and 900rpm my gauge stop moving and the leds shut off.... as soon as I accelerate, its start moving between stoich and lean... when I'm normally driving and keep the speed and REV (for example 2500RPM) its moves to stoich and lean and stoich and then lean and so pretty fast.... like 1 second cycle between stoich and lean and stoich again.... But it never stay in a possition even If I under extreme acceleration...


Is this normal???? Do I have to change to a 3 wire O2 sensor for better readings??? maybe any cylinder is not at 100% ??? failure of sparkplugs???

By the way... I have an MSD DIS2 6211 and a SAFC2

 

Are you running a turbocharger/supercharger? And is the o2 sensor a wideband or a narrowband?

 

it sounds exactly like you are running a narrow band sensor. Did you tap into the existing 02 sensors on the car, or did you add another?

 

Ok.. I don't understand exactly about Narrowband.... but I think that is a Narrowband.... The new sensor that I bought came with 1 wire only, (I put a new one for more accurate reading and to dont mess with the OEM sensor)

I saw that my Air/Fuel Gauge have only 1 sensor cable... Sadly, when I went to buy the sensor, the salesman ask me If I want to buy the Hyundai O2 sensor.... I said not because I doubt if it is a good sensor... when i was installing the sensor, I check the OEM sensor and it has 4 wires... I check an the web, an the wires are for: 12volts (for heater), Heater ground, O2 sensor signal hi, O2 sensor ground low

http://www.autometer.com/hp/instruction_do...ctions/837j.pdf

Im' N/A right know.... I'm preparing to get Turbo soon... hopefully in 2 months...

 

well.. the one wire sensor should just be giving you a signal to the gage. The gage supplies the power and as the sensor reads the oxygen content in the exhaust, it slowly grounds out.. it is that flow of power that your gage is reading.

 

I will continue this post because is another problem of the same gauge....

Ok... When I just start the engine.... the lead shows as "full rich"... ok... I notice that is because the sensor is cold..... it take like 5 minutes to be fully ready.... but in the night, when I turn on the lights, all the leds turn ON at the moment that the sensor is ready ......

Also when I sound the horn, it turn on like 3 leds of each side of the actual sensor led signal. for example: if the number 13 led is on, when I sound the horn, the number 10,11,12 and 14, 15, 16 leds turn on at the same time (including the 13).

Could be a grounding problem???

I take the 12 volts from the ignition switch...... also the ground and 12 volts wire are conected in sequence with a Volts gauge....

 

Where did you mount the sensor, the one wire sensors need to be mounted as close to the engine as possible since the work off the exhaust temperature, if you mount it to far away from the motor it will give you false readings as the exhaust gas begins to cool down as you get further from the engine. As far has the leds changing when you blow your horn thats because the one wire sensors use the exaust itself as a ground and when you use any other electrcal devices they will put a draw on the cars ground and since the exhaust is not a very good grounding area it shows more of an effect. If you want to use a narrow band reading you should have just tapped into the stock sensor in the exhaust manifold, what I would do is tap your gauge into the stock sensor and when you get some money you can buy yourself a wideband 02 and put that where you added the extra bung, in my opinion those narrow band a/f gauges are a waste, I have both a wideband and the narrowband hooked up in my car right now and you can see by watching both of them that the narrow band is kinda useless.

 

I mount the sensor like 5 or 6 inches after the OEM O2 Sensor.....

The Signal from the OEM O2 sensor would be enough so the ECU and the Gauge can read it???

Where can I get a low price Wideband??