Speaker sizes
09-04-2011, 06:48 PM
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Vehicle: 1999 Tiburon SE
Speaker sizes
Hey folks, question for you!
I have an RD1 Tib and I know that the front speaker sizes are 6.5'', rears are 6''x9''. However, when I visit sites like Crutchfield and other car electronics websites, their compatibility checking thing for speakers seems to be really flaky when it comes to this car. I'm considering upgrading all of my speakers and I'm just afraid that maybe there's something I don't know about the speaker mounts that makes almost all of these speakers not able to fit in my car, according to these websites.
By that same token, if I check the compatibility with a 2003 Tiburon, it says those same speakers will fit. Is there any difference between the speaker mounts in these cars, or are they mostly identical and should fit regardless? Is there a certain mounting depth of which I should be aware? Any and all advice is appreciated!
I have an RD1 Tib and I know that the front speaker sizes are 6.5'', rears are 6''x9''. However, when I visit sites like Crutchfield and other car electronics websites, their compatibility checking thing for speakers seems to be really flaky when it comes to this car. I'm considering upgrading all of my speakers and I'm just afraid that maybe there's something I don't know about the speaker mounts that makes almost all of these speakers not able to fit in my car, according to these websites.
By that same token, if I check the compatibility with a 2003 Tiburon, it says those same speakers will fit. Is there any difference between the speaker mounts in these cars, or are they mostly identical and should fit regardless? Is there a certain mounting depth of which I should be aware? Any and all advice is appreciated!
09-05-2011, 05:44 AM
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Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon 2.0 G4GF-EG
The 6x9s will be fine. Usually all have the same mounting holes. At least I never heard of any fitment issues with these. Mounting depth is really not important (there is enough space in the quarter panel). I found Coax speakers (two or more speakers in one housing - two is enough, four is BS) with movable tweeters to adjust the direction to sound best in my car.
Mounting tips 6x9: When removing the speaker it may be a good idea to put some polyesterwool in the hollow space behind (fold the sheets loosely in the space). Put foam tape on the mounting surface of the speaker or the car. If you plan on removing the panel as well put some bitumen sheets on the metal inside of the body panel (if you have little time don't do it).
Front speakers: First off I would go for components if you have the mounting spots like the RD 2 for the tweeters. My woofers had a mounting depth of 72 mm. I did not really consider mounting depth when I bought my speakers. I think there was around 9 cm of clearance regarding depth, but please verify! Mine are 6.2" - the diameter of the cone is smaller than the 6.5" you have for cone and rubber seal.
Mounting tips front: My speakers were not a direct fit. I just cut a piece of 3 mm MDF (if memory serves me right regarding material) to adapt the speaker to the original mount - that is not a lot of work and can be done while the speaker is still not mounted. Drilling holes for the screws before mounting is useful and makes mounting easier. In between mount and adapter and adapter and speaker I put some foam tape (tape that you can use to seal speaker and speaker chassis). Because my speakers were elevated I was afraid that the rubber lip might touch the door panel (the ring in the speaker cover) I put some rubber tape on that edge on the door panel - never had any issues (also not soundwise). You can put the audio crossovers for components behind the small panel on the passenger's side and above the fuse box on the driver's side (zip ties). If you need info on the splicing of the audio original audio wires or some pics pm me.
Personally, I would advise you to first worry about the housing (ie bitumen, polyesterwool, seals) of your stock speakers (presuming they are not damaged) if you plan to stick with just using a headunit - especially a small "wattage" headunit
Wool, bitumen and seals really don't cost a lot (50 $ all together) and go a long way.
Good luck!
Mounting tips 6x9: When removing the speaker it may be a good idea to put some polyesterwool in the hollow space behind (fold the sheets loosely in the space). Put foam tape on the mounting surface of the speaker or the car. If you plan on removing the panel as well put some bitumen sheets on the metal inside of the body panel (if you have little time don't do it).
Front speakers: First off I would go for components if you have the mounting spots like the RD 2 for the tweeters. My woofers had a mounting depth of 72 mm. I did not really consider mounting depth when I bought my speakers. I think there was around 9 cm of clearance regarding depth, but please verify! Mine are 6.2" - the diameter of the cone is smaller than the 6.5" you have for cone and rubber seal.
Mounting tips front: My speakers were not a direct fit. I just cut a piece of 3 mm MDF (if memory serves me right regarding material) to adapt the speaker to the original mount - that is not a lot of work and can be done while the speaker is still not mounted. Drilling holes for the screws before mounting is useful and makes mounting easier. In between mount and adapter and adapter and speaker I put some foam tape (tape that you can use to seal speaker and speaker chassis). Because my speakers were elevated I was afraid that the rubber lip might touch the door panel (the ring in the speaker cover) I put some rubber tape on that edge on the door panel - never had any issues (also not soundwise). You can put the audio crossovers for components behind the small panel on the passenger's side and above the fuse box on the driver's side (zip ties). If you need info on the splicing of the audio original audio wires or some pics pm me.
Personally, I would advise you to first worry about the housing (ie bitumen, polyesterwool, seals) of your stock speakers (presuming they are not damaged) if you plan to stick with just using a headunit - especially a small "wattage" headunit
Wool, bitumen and seals really don't cost a lot (50 $ all together) and go a long way.Good luck!