Remap Ecu And Raise Rev Limiter!
09-12-2007, 12:46 PM
#22
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Location: South Korea where u car from fool
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I would do it for you guys but its impossiable to. we have to be there in person there is no other way... and the other problem is the program that we use and ever other shop in korea uses is for map based ecu's you would have to change ecu and engine wireing harness and install a map to even attempt this. this other shit wont cut it.. i have to see to belive
09-12-2007, 01:01 PM
#24
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It's cool. 2 people have already sacrificed $100 of their own money to see if it works. So let's ALL wait on ordering more and chill out until these two get theirs back and find out if it's all legit. I'm sure we'll find out soon enough.
09-12-2007, 01:07 PM
#25
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Damned good point.
I was just thinking the same thing Jon, especially with TDonnell always doing dyno's, we'll have some before afters here.
I was just thinking the same thing Jon, especially with TDonnell always doing dyno's, we'll have some before afters here.
09-12-2007, 01:37 PM
#27
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The MAF should just read more airflow and give more fuel. As long as the MAF isn't pegged out on stock rpm, which it isn't.
There's a Tib that a friend just sold. It was used in SCCA and had the limiter removed, but I believe it was also converted to MAP. I got to drive it, and it felt pretty good at 7500rpms. laugh.gif
There's a Tib that a friend just sold. It was used in SCCA and had the limiter removed, but I believe it was also converted to MAP. I got to drive it, and it felt pretty good at 7500rpms. laugh.gif
09-12-2007, 04:08 PM
#29
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First off, it is glad to have the site up and running again. Thanks to all those who helped to get it back online!
I have had the new ecu (my old 1.8L that was just sitting around) in the car for 2 weeks now. First off I have to say that Keith's customer service is top notch. I had my ecu back within a week after I sent it to him, and even then he apologized for the delay as he got called out of the area for a few days.
I told him to put the limiter at about 8000 rpm because anything above that was WAY to damn high. Since the first guy that did it ended up having his limiter at 8600 (must have a ricer tach to see where the hell it was because the stocker only goes to 8k). I must say it is extremely impressive for the money. Best bang for my buck mod I have EVER done bar none. Of course, I have almost every supporting and available NA mod there is, so I would see more benefits than most when it comes to a higher redline. I found the rev-limiter, it is at 7800 rpm. So for those of you that might get this done in the future, just have him put the same program in yours that he put in mine. I must say I was suprised to find that there is no valve float (what I would percieve to be a significant loss in power) even up around 7600 rpm. I have only taken it to 7800 and tapped the limiter once and I don't plan on it again, it didn't float, but I just don't want to be tapping the rev-limiter at that engine speed. The car pulls exceptionally well all the way up to the rev-limiter if you let it go that far. It feels fantastic, it just keeps pulling! And with the new transmission I can go over 100 mph in third gear. If there are those of you wondering about this mod out there and have other modifications that would assist and support it, I say go for it without a doubt. It sounds amazing by the way, intake and exhaust.
My A/F above 6800 gets a bit richer, about 12.5:1, before that point it is around 13-13.5:1 at about 6k it is around 13:1, and the lower you go the closer it gets to 13.5:1. This is a good thing because it helps to make power at lower rpm and it keeps the engine running safe when you are winding it out. Keep in mind though this is on a 1.8L ecu, I would imagine a 2.0 would have a richer curve by .5-1 full point.
Just fair warning though, when my tach reads about 7300 my SAFC II says the engine is spinning at 7600, so those of you who think you may be at 7500 are probably at about 7800. It must just get inaccurate above the stock redline because when it is lower it is spot on. All I know is I trust the digital readout of my SAFC more than my stock analog tach.
When I feel like spending the money I will definately get it on the dyno to see where the power ends if at all.
Thanks.
I have had the new ecu (my old 1.8L that was just sitting around) in the car for 2 weeks now. First off I have to say that Keith's customer service is top notch. I had my ecu back within a week after I sent it to him, and even then he apologized for the delay as he got called out of the area for a few days.
I told him to put the limiter at about 8000 rpm because anything above that was WAY to damn high. Since the first guy that did it ended up having his limiter at 8600 (must have a ricer tach to see where the hell it was because the stocker only goes to 8k). I must say it is extremely impressive for the money. Best bang for my buck mod I have EVER done bar none. Of course, I have almost every supporting and available NA mod there is, so I would see more benefits than most when it comes to a higher redline. I found the rev-limiter, it is at 7800 rpm. So for those of you that might get this done in the future, just have him put the same program in yours that he put in mine. I must say I was suprised to find that there is no valve float (what I would percieve to be a significant loss in power) even up around 7600 rpm. I have only taken it to 7800 and tapped the limiter once and I don't plan on it again, it didn't float, but I just don't want to be tapping the rev-limiter at that engine speed. The car pulls exceptionally well all the way up to the rev-limiter if you let it go that far. It feels fantastic, it just keeps pulling! And with the new transmission I can go over 100 mph in third gear. If there are those of you wondering about this mod out there and have other modifications that would assist and support it, I say go for it without a doubt. It sounds amazing by the way, intake and exhaust.
My A/F above 6800 gets a bit richer, about 12.5:1, before that point it is around 13-13.5:1 at about 6k it is around 13:1, and the lower you go the closer it gets to 13.5:1. This is a good thing because it helps to make power at lower rpm and it keeps the engine running safe when you are winding it out. Keep in mind though this is on a 1.8L ecu, I would imagine a 2.0 would have a richer curve by .5-1 full point.
Just fair warning though, when my tach reads about 7300 my SAFC II says the engine is spinning at 7600, so those of you who think you may be at 7500 are probably at about 7800. It must just get inaccurate above the stock redline because when it is lower it is spot on. All I know is I trust the digital readout of my SAFC more than my stock analog tach.
When I feel like spending the money I will definately get it on the dyno to see where the power ends if at all.
Thanks.
09-12-2007, 06:53 PM
#30
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Friggin fantastic.
Finally somebody can do something with the stock ecu, before it was all empty promises or they came through with a very problematic product then beat feet.
good stuff, now go get dynoed for f*ck's sake wink1.gif
Finally somebody can do something with the stock ecu, before it was all empty promises or they came through with a very problematic product then beat feet.
good stuff, now go get dynoed for f*ck's sake wink1.gif