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refreshing my 2000 Tiburon

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Old 06-05-2011, 05:59 PM
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Default refreshing my 2000 Tiburon

Hello once again. I have been seriously contemplating selling the Tib for a few months now as I am finally making decent money. I was thinking long and hard about selling or rebuilding, and its come down to rebuilding. There is simply no car out there that has the curb appeal of my cobalt blue Tib, and to sell it would be just dumb…. i think. perhaps the future holds an entire beta2 swap with supercharger.



Im looking at replacing all 4 calipers, Brake master cylinder, all 4 hubs, inner tie rods, outer ball joints. new eibach springs, and new KYB struts.



Im also considering replacing the entire control arm with bushings as a set if the price is right after i conduct an inspection of the rubbers.



If you had to choose new calipers, what brand would you go with ?



RockAuto has the following manufacturers for sale:





Calipers



Centric

Raybestos

A-1 Cardone

Nastra

Beck Arnley

Auto 7

Wagner





Master Cylinder



Dorman

AUTOSPECIALTY / KELSEY-HAYE

Centric

Raybestos

A-1 Cardone

Beck Arnley

Auto 7

Wagner





Hubs

Front



Timken

National

SKF

Beck Arnley

Auto 7



Rear



GMB

Value Pro

Raybestos

Timken

National

SKF

Beck Arnley



Tie Rods and Ball Joints



Auto Extra

Reybestos

Mevotech

Deeza

AC Delco

Beck Arnley

Auto 7

Moog
Old 06-05-2011, 09:00 PM
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All I can say is: if it is made in China you don't want it. As for brands, it can be a crap shoot. I bought a part from a national rebuilder that turned out to be a reman'd Hyundai casting.
Old 06-05-2011, 11:32 PM
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yea, thats what im afraid of, ive seen some pretty crappy reman jobs, i suppose this topic would take some time to develop as people chime in with their thoughts on what they bought. thanks stocker
Old 06-06-2011, 07:26 AM
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I'm all about timken when it comes to bearings and also a big moog fan.



Brakes parts id just go with whatever your local auto parts store backs with a warranty.



I can't remember if your from out west or not, but give the brakes lines a check too.



I had a line blow on the tib last year, rusted right through. threw a set of vicegrips on the end to cap it off so i at least and 3 brakes until i could fix it B)



I personally wouldn't replace the front hubs unless the spline was bad or the hub cracked. Popping a new bearing in is essentially starting fresh.





STILL... i don't recommend replacing something if its not worn/broken. You go to do inner/outer tie rods and don't take your time and measurements and throw the toe off to all hell you'll be trying to get it back to spec without an alignment machine lol
Old 06-06-2011, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by SR Tech
I'm all about timken when it comes to bearings and also a big moog fan.



Brakes parts id just go with whatever your local auto parts store backs with a warranty.



I can't remember if your from out west or not, but give the brakes lines a check too.



I had a line blow on the tib last year, rusted right through. threw a set of vicegrips on the end to cap it off so i at least and 3 brakes until i could fix it B)


thanks, when i changed the pads and rotors last year, the front pistons in the calipers had rusted and seized, so i pulled them apart and rebuilt them. Also i flushed the front brake lines to get the condensation build up out. the rear pistons werent too bad but were showing some signs of rust due to water in the lines.



I personally wouldn't replace the front hubs unless the spline was bad or the hub cracked. Popping a new bearing in is essentially starting fresh.





STILL... i don't recommend replacing something if its not worn/broken. You go to do inner/outer tie rods and don't take your time and measurements and throw the toe off to all hell you'll be trying to get it back to spec without an alignment machine lol


i understand the "if its not broke, dont fix it" mentality, but tie rods, ball joints, bushings, and bearings wear out unexpectedly, so better to replace them now while i have the front end apart. thanks for your input on Timken and Moog too !
Old 06-06-2011, 01:15 PM
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IMO: Replace stuff only as it fails, unless you just have money falling out your pockets.
Old 06-06-2011, 06:33 PM
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all those parts have 126k miles on them, except for the springs and struts. they are being replaced no matter what. does kspec still have the complete bushing sets ?
Old 06-12-2011, 01:44 PM
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this is my current expenditure sheet on the refresh.

all prices are estimates based on RockAuto pricing except for sway bars and rotors



PURCHASED



381.55 KYB struts and mounts









206.00 eibach springs









279.00 kspec bushings



TOTAL 866









NEEDED



inner tie rods 8 each = 16



outer tie rods 10 each = 20









ball joints









sway bars



400









axles 46 each









hubs



front 30 each = 60



rear 45 each = 90









calipers



front 206 pair



rear 206 pair









rotors and pads



130









gaskets



intake manifold 4 each = 8



TOTAL 1228









EXTRAS:









LITHIUM GREASE



BRAKE FLUID



AXLE GREASE



BEARING GREASE



Red Spray Paint



Clear Spray Paint



Hyundai decals















funds needed



(axles)92 + (bearings)150 + (calipers)412 + (rotors)130 + (IM gaskets)8 + (sway bars)400 + (inner/outer tie rods)36 = 1228









ESTIMATED TOTAL 2,158

















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