wheel_of_steel

I'd guess it'd be the rear. The trailing arm has a rubber bushing that twists as the lateral links move through their arc: once you start going very low that'd make for plenty of friction and a correspondingly bad ride. Also if you go too low, the unequal length transverse links ('specially the shorter one) would start assuming big anhedral angles and you'd get very odd roll steer. Without actually measuring it, I'd say you'd want the back just low enough for all the links to be parallel to the ground.



The front end is pretty vanilla but it could be steering related. Eggcatcher, pick some brains plz.

eggcatcher

Will ask more next time i see them. Those AVOs they had bespoke made for the cup cars are way to stiff, and set-up to aggressive for road use, but by god they work on track. I've driven one on the same track as my own tib, and went through one of the faster corners 20mph faster in the cup car, whilst taking it easy.

Lowering can feel better as it stiffens the car, giving better feedback, but guys who did the checks think the potential is there to lap a road going tib faster on stock shocks than off the shelf coilies, but the driver would have to know what he's doing. Same with strut bars, they feel tighter, so are more consistant. A UK trackday/performance mag tested those, no noticeable difference between fastest laps set with and without a strut bar, but average laps were 1.5 seconds quicker with one. That stiffer feel and feedback allows for more consistency and is easier to judge the limit in a corner.

wheel_of_steel

Interesting man. Do let us know when you know. Also





I am not surprised. Most coilovers are shite. Faaaaar to stiff and underdamped in most cases.

eggcatcher

Not seen the cup guys to verify yet, but from what I can gather from the Type R Honda forums I also use, it seems caster is the key on FWD cars, not camber. Lowering to much naturally compresses everything down, something has to give outwards, leaving camber. Small amounts of camber can be useful when cornering, but not huge amounts. However it's not helpful in a straightline, and can leave you with uneven tyre wear. A small bit of castor in the right direction leaves the camber in a neutral position, yet as the wheel is turned, camber is naturally added due to the off center pivot point, but then returns to neutral once steering is straightened.

wheel_of_steel

Caster is great, although not the Ultimate Solution. It might be different with double wishbones and caster rods etc, but with pleb mcpherson struts, you have to move the whole control arm to get caster. So then the rest of the geometry gets out of whack.



Nonetheless, caster is one of the first things to do along with swaybars. Camber comes later, but note that all the fastest cars run lots of both caster and camber.