People still cut their springs
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Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Pflugerville, TX
Vehicle: 2000 Elantra
Springs with the ends coiled so that the spring can stand up on its own can not be cut safely unless their perches are also modified.
Springs with the ends coiled at a constant diameter and coil spacing (so they will fall over if stood on end) can be cut and people have done it safely for decades. The only things that change when doing a 1 or 2 coil cut on most cars are spring rate (higher), ride height (lower), and the portion of the damper that is in use while driving (more compressed). Load capacity is unchanged, and if the spring is properly cut the fitment in the spring perch is also unchanged.
On an RD it is possible to cut the front spring far enough that it no longer holds the strut far enough apart, but at that point it wouldn't install properly, and things would go bad more-or-less immediately when the car was first driven after being reassembled. I didn't look into cutting the rear springs. (edit: DTN said the rears taper and can't be cut in post 15 of my thread on this subject from 2008)
Springs with the ends coiled at a constant diameter and coil spacing (so they will fall over if stood on end) can be cut and people have done it safely for decades. The only things that change when doing a 1 or 2 coil cut on most cars are spring rate (higher), ride height (lower), and the portion of the damper that is in use while driving (more compressed). Load capacity is unchanged, and if the spring is properly cut the fitment in the spring perch is also unchanged.
On an RD it is possible to cut the front spring far enough that it no longer holds the strut far enough apart, but at that point it wouldn't install properly, and things would go bad more-or-less immediately when the car was first driven after being reassembled. I didn't look into cutting the rear springs. (edit: DTN said the rears taper and can't be cut in post 15 of my thread on this subject from 2008)
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From: Floating around the AUDM
Vehicle: X3 Sprint, S-Coupe Turbo
The only things that change when doing a 1 or 2 coil cut on most cars are spring rate (higher), ride height (lower), and the portion of the damper that is in use while driving (more compressed). Load capacity is unchanged, and if the spring is properly cut the fitment in the spring perch is also unchanged.
This a literal description of lowering springs
As long as the cut spring mounts solidly, it makes no difference
A spring is a spring is a spring
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From: Iowa
Vehicle: 1997/Hyundai/Tiburon
Cut springs on the Civic. Why? Because spending money on new or aftermarket parts is frowned on and usually against the rules. Almost everybody in Lemons/Chumpcar cut their springs. I have yet to see any issues. Improved our car a TON.
Also this is on a dedicated race car. Not a street car where bumps in the road would be more of an issue.
Also this is on a dedicated race car. Not a street car where bumps in the road would be more of an issue.
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From: Bayarea, CA.
Vehicle: 1999/hyundai/tiburon
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Joined: Dec 2008
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From: Floating around the AUDM
Vehicle: X3 Sprint, S-Coupe Turbo
one of the worst (and most unsafe) things you can do to a car.
Cut springs, especially DIYs as most are, equal a recipe for disaster.
Stay away from my ride with that bouncing, unsafe piece of sh*t you now have.
Tell me how this is any different from proper lowering springs
Spoiler
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From: Lacey, WA
Vehicle: Two Accents, Mini, Miata, Van, Outback, and a ZX-6
If it fits in the spring perch properly and doesn't unload at full extension you're ok. If those conditions aren't met it is unsafe. If you use your old stock struts you will blow them out immediately. Same is true for stiff lowering springs though.