Overheating
12-29-2005, 04:19 PM
#11
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no leaks. did a pressure test and its all good. but i knew there werent any leaks already. but no i didnt have rad fluid so i poured some water in the rad itself. but i had it towed and hopefully i will know tomorrow and have it fixed by monday. but can anyone tell me if radiator.com is reliable? and what parts and numers ill need
12-29-2005, 04:33 PM
#12
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Vehicle: 2001/Hyundai/Tiburon
dude, fill it up with RADIATOR fluid.
go drain EVERYTHING thats in it right now, and then dump some 50/50 premixed in there. you will need 2 (2L? whatever normal is) cases. why do you need anything from radiator.com? It probably is not your radiator.
go drain EVERYTHING thats in it right now, and then dump some 50/50 premixed in there. you will need 2 (2L? whatever normal is) cases. why do you need anything from radiator.com? It probably is not your radiator.
12-29-2005, 05:14 PM
#13
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I don't want to hijack, so an admin can split this if needed. But it's related, and here's what I found regarding my car.
Both belts were loose and it looks like they were slipping last night, mainly because they were new and had stretched since initial install, but probably aided by the heavy rain and cold weather. My battery light did flicker a few times, so I know my alt belt was slipping at least. I think the PSP belt also turns the water pump, and that was loose too. So maybe by water pump wasn't circulating coolant, which led to my overheating. I remember that when running the heat on high to try to cool the enngine, the air coming out the vents would suddenly not be hot, and then the temp needle would immediately climb.
I notice today that my upper radiator hose had leaked some antifreeze where it connects to the engine, although not much, likely when I overheated last night. The lower looked fine. There is also a small crack on the tiny hose that goes to the overflow reservoir, and some had leaked from there as well. The water pump does not look like it had leaked.
When my fans are off, and I turn on the AC, only the driver side fan cuts on. With the AC off, and the engine gets hot enough to trip the fan, that fan is also the only one to come on. And if I then cut the AC on, both fans come on. I assume this is correct? I would think the passenger side fan should be the one to come on when the engine gets hot, which would blow on the exhaust manifold and further aid engine bay cooling in addition to the radiator, but I guess that's not necessary.
I was going to drive 150 miles tonight, but I'm postponing my trip. I feel like I can't trust my car, and it's a bad feeling. sad.gif It seems like you have it narrowed down homey14h.
Both belts were loose and it looks like they were slipping last night, mainly because they were new and had stretched since initial install, but probably aided by the heavy rain and cold weather. My battery light did flicker a few times, so I know my alt belt was slipping at least. I think the PSP belt also turns the water pump, and that was loose too. So maybe by water pump wasn't circulating coolant, which led to my overheating. I remember that when running the heat on high to try to cool the enngine, the air coming out the vents would suddenly not be hot, and then the temp needle would immediately climb.
I notice today that my upper radiator hose had leaked some antifreeze where it connects to the engine, although not much, likely when I overheated last night. The lower looked fine. There is also a small crack on the tiny hose that goes to the overflow reservoir, and some had leaked from there as well. The water pump does not look like it had leaked.
When my fans are off, and I turn on the AC, only the driver side fan cuts on. With the AC off, and the engine gets hot enough to trip the fan, that fan is also the only one to come on. And if I then cut the AC on, both fans come on. I assume this is correct? I would think the passenger side fan should be the one to come on when the engine gets hot, which would blow on the exhaust manifold and further aid engine bay cooling in addition to the radiator, but I guess that's not necessary.
I was going to drive 150 miles tonight, but I'm postponing my trip. I feel like I can't trust my car, and it's a bad feeling. sad.gif It seems like you have it narrowed down homey14h.
12-29-2005, 05:58 PM
#14
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As long as the radiator is full... it will cool. You can run straight water if you have to, and it will keep an engine cool for a little while.. it is just not recommended as it lacks the lubrication abilities of coolant and does not work well in either very hot or very cold circumstances.
If it is not your cylinder head (A leak down test will determine this) it is one of four things. Water pump, thermostat, airpocket in the head/coolant lines, or a bad radiator cap. Of the four, the radiator cap is the easiest to replace and check, you can get them at any automotive store.
Next would be an airpocket. I am unsure how easily the Tib can form an airpocket in the head of the engine, but if it can, the air can block most coolant from reaching the radiator. You would need to jack up the front of the car and let it run with the radiator cap off until it warms up and coolant begins to flow out of the radiator. Some mechanics will cut a long black plastic funnel to fit the opening INSIDE the radiator opening so that it fits in their snug and fill it with coolant up and way above the height of the engine.
Thermostat can be a pain, it is also a little harder to diagnose with 100% certainty. At this point it is either the pump or the thermostat. The stat is cheaper and easier to get at, so most people do that first.
And finally, the waterpump. Even if it is not leaking, it could be internally damaged. ESPECIALLY if you had a lot of scale or buildup inside the engine when you had the cooling system drained and backflushed. This also goes for the Tstat. If a large chunk of rust or scale got wedged into the pump, it could sheer the impeller off of the shaft or even mangle the fins on it. If it got stuck in the Tstat.. if could keep it from opening properly.
All of this assumes that your coolant system holds pressure, has no leaks, and the headgasket is not blown.
If it is not your cylinder head (A leak down test will determine this) it is one of four things. Water pump, thermostat, airpocket in the head/coolant lines, or a bad radiator cap. Of the four, the radiator cap is the easiest to replace and check, you can get them at any automotive store.
Next would be an airpocket. I am unsure how easily the Tib can form an airpocket in the head of the engine, but if it can, the air can block most coolant from reaching the radiator. You would need to jack up the front of the car and let it run with the radiator cap off until it warms up and coolant begins to flow out of the radiator. Some mechanics will cut a long black plastic funnel to fit the opening INSIDE the radiator opening so that it fits in their snug and fill it with coolant up and way above the height of the engine.
Thermostat can be a pain, it is also a little harder to diagnose with 100% certainty. At this point it is either the pump or the thermostat. The stat is cheaper and easier to get at, so most people do that first.
And finally, the waterpump. Even if it is not leaking, it could be internally damaged. ESPECIALLY if you had a lot of scale or buildup inside the engine when you had the cooling system drained and backflushed. This also goes for the Tstat. If a large chunk of rust or scale got wedged into the pump, it could sheer the impeller off of the shaft or even mangle the fins on it. If it got stuck in the Tstat.. if could keep it from opening properly.
All of this assumes that your coolant system holds pressure, has no leaks, and the headgasket is not blown.
12-29-2005, 08:54 PM
#15
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Mad-Machine @ Dec 29 2005, 04:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Thermostat can be a pain, it is also a little harder to diagnose with 100% certainty. At this point it is either the pump or the thermostat. The stat is cheaper and easier to get at, so most people do that first.</div>
Actually there is a way to test thermostats and they do go bad quite often.
take your thermostat out, get a pot... boil some water and drop the thermostat in the stat should open emediatly and to wide open position. if it doesnt its bad if it does then its good.
Check your radiator cap they do go bad tongue.gif
Actually there is a way to test thermostats and they do go bad quite often.
take your thermostat out, get a pot... boil some water and drop the thermostat in the stat should open emediatly and to wide open position. if it doesnt its bad if it does then its good.
Check your radiator cap they do go bad tongue.gif