Dont have a restrictor in there..

Actually now I can take my previous statement back when I said the car wasnt eating the oil. Alex informed me that sound sounds like theres no oil in the engine at all.

 

that's what i was refering to when i've told you about "your engine does sound very noisy, just like a spun bearing or something"
but it's quite hard to tell on the video.. in most videos the engine soundrought but "okay" in this one it has that "dead metalic" sound....
chekc the oil pressure.. and level ;-)

 

I don't think you've got a cracked head. In over your head yes. But not a cracked head.

Okay, if you've got the ability to read CEL/MIL codes, hopefully you've got the ability to read live sensor data.

#1 thing to test. MAF.
Does the MAF respond when you stomp the throttle? If there's ANY delay between when you stomp the throttle and when the MAF records a spike in air travel...there's your first problem.

#2. MAF Part 2
Your BOV appears to be open all the time, this means intake air can make it into the engine and NOT past the MAF. (right in the BOV then into the engine). This makes your engine run lean, so the ECU tries to compensate, by richening up short/long term fuel trim to max levels...then when you stomp on the go pedal, you flood the engine with gas, and it stumbles. Check your Long/short term fuel trims. If you have any positive value...reset/clear the ECU(the excess carbon dumped out your tailpipe sure says you're running RICH). Then hookup your BOV the right way, not the ricer way. Your MAF should record no higher than .3#/ft per minute at idle. If it's any higher than that...You've got issues. If it's any lower than .1#/Ft per minute...you've got issues. See BOV problem above.

#3. O2 sensor values. At idle, your O2 sensor readings should bop from full rich to full lean at least once a every 2-3 seconds, preferably faster (some systems just can't record/display the data that fast). If you're stuck rich or lean...you've got issues. If MAF tested out fine above, suspect excess fuel rail pressure. Check Long/Short term fuel trim again(the excess carbon dumped out your tailpipe sure says you're running RICH). Reset ECU if needed.

#4. Idle air Bypass. Is it hooked up? Is it working? To test to see if it's working, pinch it off 100%. The engine should die. If it doesn't, you've got a leak somewhere, and the IAB isn't working. Adjust your Throttle butterfly so that the engine DIES when the IAB hose is choked/blocked off.

#5. MAF location. If the MAF is any closer than 12" from the turbo...MOVE IT. The Turbo get's hot (gee, that's a news flash), the MAF requires HEAT to sense airflow. If you heat up the MAF, it can't read the airflow properly. Move the MAF at least 12" away, and make damn sure you've got silocone connectors between the compressor and the spacer/connector tube and between the spacer/connector tube and the MAF. DO NOT let the Connector/spacer tube touch the compressor. Do not let the spacer/connector tube touch the MAF. You need to isolate the MAF. The other easy way to tell this is if the car runs okay when cold, but after 120 seconds or so, starts to have problems.

#6. Engine Coolant Temp. Check this sensor to make sure that it is reading above 165 degrees once the engine is warmed up. The exact figure really doesn't matter as long as it's above 165.

#7. Recirculate the BOV. Dump the BOV to between the MAF and the turbine inlet. Yeah, I know, it won't make happy rice boy noises. Yeah, I know, it's a PITA to plumb/route/setup. DO IT. You'll be amazed at the difference. Have it dump as close to the compressor inlet as possible, and as far from the MAF exit as possible.


That stuff should keep you busy.

 

^Thanks a lot Random. All this info Im going to have to give back to my dad since Im not in NJ. I know about recirculating and once again I had noone to do it for me therefore I left it as is..Im not going to attempt unless I am completely sure how to. haha and yes I know the turbo gets extremely hot so having the maf near it is not a good thing.

As soon as it gets little warmer (like 40 degrees and higher) in NJ my dad is going to try all these things on the car.

I really appreciate all your help. It makes me feel a little less frustrated.

 

Just to give you a guys an update. My dad checked the codes out again and this time there turned out to be 13. However, he cleared the ecu and said the car runs perfect, no misfiring, nothing. He still is going to do a compression test and everything though. Just thought Id let anybody know who was interested.

 

like i said... get that thing up here and ill take care of it

 

I will do that.. fing02.gif

 

Awesome, can we get some "after" videos? Wanna hear that through my 5.1 surround system.

 

Sure..after my car gets tuned and I get it back. Be patient. wink1.gif

 

Once we both get the boost up, we'll take some videos at the track and such, till then u can just listen to the one in my thread where i did a lap around the parking lot, i thought that sounded nice

MMM