Oem Water Temp Gauge
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Eau Claire, WI
Vehicle: 97 Tib
okay so we've all seen mad machine's signature ..
Since this is true, I was thinking it would be cool to upgrade or modify our temp sensor to utilize our OEM temp gauge (in other words make it accurate)
Is this possible?
This would be especially nice for the FI guys who need to know the temps, instead of having to buy an aftermarket gauge.
Since this is true, I was thinking it would be cool to upgrade or modify our temp sensor to utilize our OEM temp gauge (in other words make it accurate)
Is this possible?
This would be especially nice for the FI guys who need to know the temps, instead of having to buy an aftermarket gauge.
heh.. not my signiture.. just a quote of mine in somebody else's signiture.
And yes, I really do not know of an easy way to retrofit a more accurate gage into the cluster.. Not only is it very well intergrated, but the needle moves backwards from all the aftermarket gages out there.
And yes, I really do not know of an easy way to retrofit a more accurate gage into the cluster.. Not only is it very well intergrated, but the needle moves backwards from all the aftermarket gages out there.
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,155
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From: Eau Claire, WI
Vehicle: 97 Tib
I'm not talking about another gauge, I meant another sensor to USE the OEM gauge. The needle doesn't have 3 settings, it can go anywhere, it's the sensor telling the needle what to do.
or am I completely wrong about all that .. haha.gif
or am I completely wrong about all that .. haha.gif
I thought the damn needle was pre-programmed from the beginning to go from cold, to running at normal temp, to "hey, you just cooked your engine!" BUT...On my way to Vegas this summer, I managed to get the needle to move in another place! I was heading up this hill outside of Mesquite Nevada and got stuck behind two semi's, running about 40 MPH. It was close to 115 degrees out. The whole time my needle slowly stated to creep up. I have never seen it go above the normal driving position in the middle. It got about three quarters of the way to "H". I took a gutsy move and floored it when I could get around the Semi and my needle slowly went back to normal.
Point of the story: I guess our needles do have more than just three or four preprogrammed stops. How accurate it is, I am not sure, but I definitely have never witnessed that before.
Point Number 2: Air moving through the front of the car and the radiator does make a difference!!! Being stuck behind those semi's robbed my car of airflow to the engine and radiator causing my car to begin to overheat. I remember my sisters Grand Prix. SUPER FAST car but if you went to slow the damn thing would overheat, especially going up hills. You HAD to drive that car fast! smile.gif
Point of the story: I guess our needles do have more than just three or four preprogrammed stops. How accurate it is, I am not sure, but I definitely have never witnessed that before.
Point Number 2: Air moving through the front of the car and the radiator does make a difference!!! Being stuck behind those semi's robbed my car of airflow to the engine and radiator causing my car to begin to overheat. I remember my sisters Grand Prix. SUPER FAST car but if you went to slow the damn thing would overheat, especially going up hills. You HAD to drive that car fast! smile.gif
Well take a CLOSE look at the needle. Once it's at operating temp look above and below the needle and you will see 2 small VERY small sensors. And it will always stay inbetween those sensors. I've never seen mine go anyhigher then that little sensor.
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Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,155
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From: Eau Claire, WI
Vehicle: 97 Tib
tanc I've seen gauges for like 5 tibs RD2 and RD1 and only one gauge has had those two little hole in it..weird.
Anyway, I've seen mine go lower than that and rise up, plus, I screwed up the gauge once on the blue tib and it sat always like 3/4 up that was normal, so it doesn't sit between those holes because what if you move the needle manually? I think those are more of a guide for the driver to see it's normal or not.
Anyway, I've seen mine go lower than that and rise up, plus, I screwed up the gauge once on the blue tib and it sat always like 3/4 up that was normal, so it doesn't sit between those holes because what if you move the needle manually? I think those are more of a guide for the driver to see it's normal or not.
There's really nothing wrong with the stock gauge. Having spent hours with my OBD-II datalogger plugged in, I can say the stock temp gauge is not just a three-position switch. More or less it just has a "comfort zone". If the gauge was constantly moving in real time, it would probably distract or freak out the average driver.
From about 0-180F is when you see the needle climbing. Then it hits the "normal comfort zone" and the needle stays pretty much still from about 180-220F. From 220F on up it moves in real time again with temp increase, up to about 250F+ when it's pegged on HOT.
I'd say it's unnecessary because the range around 180-220F is perfectly normal operating temp. Pretty much the coolant reaches 220F then the fans kick on until it's back down to 180F, then they cut off. Rinse and repeat. No reason the gauge needs to reflect this as it would just end up causing more worry and concern. If the needle starts moving above normal operating temp, it is overheating and you need to address the problem immediately. Simple as that.
That doesn't mean an aftermarket temp gauge isn't useful, but that's primarily because you can actually SEE the temp in degrees. This is good for people really pushing the car who need to keep an eye on their temps, and so you can really see the differences when changing/upgrading your cooling setup. wink1.gif
My bored two pennies...
From about 0-180F is when you see the needle climbing. Then it hits the "normal comfort zone" and the needle stays pretty much still from about 180-220F. From 220F on up it moves in real time again with temp increase, up to about 250F+ when it's pegged on HOT.
I'd say it's unnecessary because the range around 180-220F is perfectly normal operating temp. Pretty much the coolant reaches 220F then the fans kick on until it's back down to 180F, then they cut off. Rinse and repeat. No reason the gauge needs to reflect this as it would just end up causing more worry and concern. If the needle starts moving above normal operating temp, it is overheating and you need to address the problem immediately. Simple as that.
That doesn't mean an aftermarket temp gauge isn't useful, but that's primarily because you can actually SEE the temp in degrees. This is good for people really pushing the car who need to keep an eye on their temps, and so you can really see the differences when changing/upgrading your cooling setup. wink1.gif
My bored two pennies...


