This weekend the Tib has developed a strange stalling issue. It kind of resembles a manual (mines an auto) that is not being given enough throttle when releasing the clutch: the car will slightly lurch forward and rattle before finally engaging properly. I thought that it might be a fueling issue because the trans doesn't seem to be shifting any different and the revs drop well below the 1k range when stopped, sometimes down as low at 500 or less; and during highway driving I don't see any problems. However this morning after a few rev drops in stopped traffic the revs suddenly jumped to the 1500-1600 range and the car felt like it had had all kind of torque. Pretty weird needless to say. Normally I get between 30-33 mpg and I was averaging just this for our trip so I doubt its a lean mix. All I can think now is some throttle problem but because I'm new to Tibs I thought Id ask here 1st. I have seen a couple of other have a similar stalling problems, but in those cases the symptoms have seemed slightly different. Maybe not but better I ask 1st. Any ideas?


Other info:
The check engine light has not lit yet and I don't have a reader so I didn't check for codes.
I checked the TB and physically it and the cabling seem to be okay, but I have not inspected in full.
I replaced the Spark plugs and wires last year when I bought the car, but I have already put over 25K on her (rolled over to 100k on Saturday) . I'll inspect tonight, I've been meaning to do a compression test anyway.
The oil was changed Friday, 5w30 synthetic was used and a new oil filter was installed.




<u>Edit:</u>
Actually, as much as I seem to have missed this when I looked before, the sensor is the "Dae Sung" which I have seen posts about. I imagine this is probably the root cause. Is there any recommendations when replacing this, or are most after market units pretty reliable?

 

http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?s...ic=30260&st=20

check my pic on post #26 that part controls your idle.

 

my suggestions:

change your TPS (to a Keifco I think?)
change your Spark Plugs and Wires

 

^with confucius.

 

I thought it was Keifco?

 

^^ I think HKC was calling you a chineese wise man who states the truth.

 

I think I was playing a joke on his comment nana.gif

 

The dealership has the keifco new for $60, which is just 10 bucks more than Autozone's duralast. Plus the dealer has it in stock and I usually make it a point to avoid products that allude to their durability and/or value in the product name. I also see a Delphi unit available online for about $45 but it has to be shipped, will either one be better than the other?


I highly doubt that the Idle stabilizer is the cause only because this morning I felt the revs drop while traveling at highway speeds, it seems the issue is progressing.



<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (majikTib)</div><div class='quotemain'>Learning without thought is labor lost; thought without learning is perilous.</div>
His words are indeed wise!

 

Damnit. mad.gif

I replaced the Plugs, wires and TPS, which itself was a fun ordeal: The dealership sold me what must have been a beta2 sensor since it bolted on properly but just the plug was different, then they tried to replace it with a sensor from lord only knows what! I returned it and went to autozone who DID have it in stock and when opened the Duralast box before purchasing it and out dropped a brand new <u>Keifco</u> TPS. Who knew?
The car ran fine for a week and now another problem, but it seems to be related. At random but only once or twice a day, from a light or any brief stop the engine begins to rev, then about 1500rpm all power is lost for a few seconds before cutting back in. Sometimes it will last long enough that every half second or so the throttle will slowly engage then back off just like a sine wave. I have had a similar problem on the other car and had to replace the fuel pump and filter. Before I waste time and money I thought I'd get a 2nd opinion. That and because of the "sine" effect I figure it's more likely electrical in nature.
And it happens to my wife to it has nothing to do with aggressive driving or lead shoes.


It's been asked but I never saw an answer, is there a way to test the idle stabilizer w/out removing it totally?
On to of that should I check the MAF or any other sensors?

 

Now that's something new.

LOL

I've never heard of this that I can think of. Have you reset your ECU after the TPS fiasco?

The idle bypass valve is very easy to remove, pull it off and clean it up. Check the hoses that go to and from it for blockage, swelling, and leaks. Check your intake elbow and all connectors for the same. RESET YOUR ECU.

Might also want to check your TPS to make sure it's not loose. Some folks had one that could be wiggled some in place and it caused issues.