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Noise From The Lifters

Old Oct 22, 2008 | 02:01 AM
  #1  
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Hey guys.
I did go do the 1.8 cam change in my 2.0 engine.
I changed all 16 lifters with new ones.
The 1.8 cam was a new one.
The OLD cam retainers were used...
Oil pump was changed for a new one
The car got a major service as well as some porting of the intake and exhaust ports.

I have run into a problem.
My car sounds like a Diesel...
And the sound increases pace with RPm.
The car does seem to stall easier.

I dont know whats going on because i took it back to HYUNDAI
And HYUNDAI opened up the engine and changed 5 lifters that were new... saying they were too soft.
Hmmmmmmmmmmm and guess what??? THE NOISE WAS STILL THERE.
I really got a problem.
Please try help. Anything is possible.
Thanks
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 04:43 AM
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Do you know how to set timing? I've never done it on this car but from what I've read you set it up to TDC, then you align both of the cam shafts so the timing marks on the gears are straight up and 6 chain links from the next one.

Your timing is the most likely thing as that was what you were working with directly. Some of the other things could be
fouled spark plug
improper spark plug gap
Bad plug wire
Exhaust leak

Do you have a check engine light displayed?

Having headers or a custom intake manifold will contribute to lifter noise.

You can recheck their work by pressing on the lifters by hand. If they move, then they're too soft.
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 07:00 AM
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Hey thanxs for the reply.
The timing was done by a HYUNDAI approved mechanic... So he works on HYUNDAI's only.
But i dont think he has done a 1.8 cam in 2.0 engine before.
He can set timing... Im asking if it will be done different if using a 1,8 cam?

Thanks...
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 07:04 AM
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I had the same problem. When i changed out my lifters, they took a while to inflate with oil, car sounded like hell when you first start it up but then it will quiet down after a bit (10- 15 minutes of idle) to inflate the lifters fully.

timing is the same on a 2.0 cam as a 1.8 cam. Its 5 links appart. The chain should be marked to show where the marked tooth of the cam should go.
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 07:13 AM
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You didn't say that he did the timing earlier, I'd double check and make sure. You are probably having the same problem a LOT of folks have with cams, they just weren't installed correctly. Double, and then triple check the timing. You should also make sure you got the right lifters, if the old ones weren't bad, there was no reason to replace them. Did you soak the HLA's first to get them filled with oil?

When I did my cams, I had some big problems afterwards, my cams, that I swore were done right, were installed incorrectly. All of the marks and stuff you are to line up are supposed to be in relation to the top of the head, the surface that the valve cover connects to, NOT in relation to the ground. If you look at your engine from the side, on level ground, your engine isn't FLAT, it is tilted back about 5 degrees or so. Go back out, and make sure that the timing and everything else is set right, in relation to the HEAD, and not the ground.

Anyone can make that mistake.

Also, keep checking your oil level as the HLA's can suck up a lot of oil.
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 07:28 AM
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Hey Guys,
I just checked the oil level and it was fine.
Do you think by any chance the lifters will stop making noise if they are not full with oil?
It was done at and Hyundai approved dealer.
I know the guy well...
I think i will change to the stock cams and see what happens??
What you guys think?
I have changed the oil and filters. The car has been driven for over 1000km, after the cam swap.
Is there any chance the cam caps(retainer can cause this because i used a new 1,8 cam and old 1,8 caps because the 2.0 would not work)
The holes for the cam cap had to be heli-coiled as the hole was striped.
What i do notice is
After driving the car fast The HLA does make louder noise on idle then what it was before i drove fast

Thanks for all the replies...
I just want a trouble free car again...
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 08:22 AM
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IF it is the HLAs, they should pump full of oil and quiet within 15 minutes. The caps should have no effect, unless the cam were physically striking them somehow.

Have you checked the spark plugs & wires recently? (grasping at straws)

Checking the timing yourself is not hard, and should take less than an hour with hand tools.

Does the car have a noticeable increase in power compared to before the change?

Oh, and see about going to a different mechanic. This one seems...not so great.
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 08:38 AM
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Hey Stocker.
I think i will check the plugs today and see.
As for the plug wires... i dont know how to check it.
but i know how to pull them out...
Im sure its not something i cant do.

Change in Engine after 1,8 cam swap...
Seems to rev 1-4 slower but faster from 4-6
Can i damage the engine by driving it with faulty HLA's?
Will noisy lifter decrease performance? Should i not drive the car?

Also i have found the car to stall easier....
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 09:13 AM
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Ok number 1, the helicoils, were they on there before or did you have to drill out bolts?

2. Did anyone use a torque wrench at any step of the way?


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>Can i damage the engine by driving it with faulty HLA's?</div>

Its going to be loud, your going to wear your cams out more, metal smacking metal is'nt good for long periods of time. Its throwing your timing off a bit as well. Poor performance and bad millage.



<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>Should i not drive the car?</div>

Only when absolutely necessary. If you have an oil issue not getting to the HLA's then there could be more damage done then just loud ticking if your oil pressure is low or non-existent. If it were my car, i would try not to drive it until i found out whats going on.

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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 09:16 AM
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The cam shouldn't cause notably less performance at low engine speed, or dramatically more at high RPMs. If it's off by a tooth on the belt or chain, it could, depending on which way it is off. If it's off 2 teeth, it would be anywhere from worse to bending valves against pistons.

one more reason to check the timing.

The wires should read about 1,000 ohms per foot.
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