So I was just asked about getting a header, not the Megan one, because it hits something on the tranny for Accents with Beta swaps. I dont have a clue where this thing is that it hits, but it got me to thinking of easy ways to adjust the fitment of this header. So here's my thoughts. Is there anything wrong with double flanging a header???

If you had any machine shop take a header, copy its head flange, and then weld the new one to the old, is there any reason it wouldn't work? I mean, if the only thing that presents a problem is that the head studs wouldn't be long enough, you could just make an exact copy of the original flange, then redrill to open up the original holes, weld it to the newly made copy to create a countersunk effect:

1 Original Header to use to make a new flange

2 New copy of the original flange with small bolt holes

3 redrilled original bolt holes (big enough to fit a 14mm socket)

4 Lay the new flange over the original, weld it and smooth out the welds inside the runners



You could do this to the lower flange too instead, or together with the above. I would think that would move the header far enough forward to clear whatever it hits, clear any issues with oil pans, and even give you the ability to create very slight angles if you had the copy flange at a very slight angle? I'm completely thinking outloud here, so if I'm way off, by all means tell me. It just seems like a feasible solution to those unable to just bolt up and go with this awesome header. The work seems easy enough for any machinist to pull off.

Dumb?

 

Basically like an intake spacer but for the exhaust.......

Why weld it? I whould think that there would be too many spots to weld and you would get an exhaust leak....

Just leave it un welded and put ANOTHER exhaust gasket between the 2 flanges.

It would be header, gasket, flange, gasket, engine...

 

you'd have to weld it, or go get some crazy long head bolts, and screw that. Two flanges would make it too thick to just bolt right up.

 

Seems like it'd be cheaper & easier to get custom head studs than TWO sets of custom flanges made AND welded.

 

^The problem is taking out the old studs, most likely one or 2 will snap, not everyone lives in salt free texas like yourself smile.gif

And if you do that it no longer becomes a DIY, it becomes a pita.

Doesn't sound like a profitable solution imo

 

I'm pretty sure that will not let the tube clear the clutch slave cylinder. From what I remember it was some pretty bad interference. Unfortunately I don't have the header anymore or I would get some pictures of it.

 

Also, the original flange BARELY fits behind the power steering harness off cylinder one. with two flanges? I highly doubt it'll even fit behind the harness. Although i'm not sure the flange thickness differences between stock mani and megan headers.

 

What do you mean by power steering harness???

 

i know on beta 2 motors it was hitting the oil pan. it makes sense since the oil pans are different. the only thing that bugged me about this was the fact it was R&D'd on a beta1 but if you use the bracket on the front of the engine for your exhaust, it will need to be heated and pulled over to be used. most people don't use it but I see no need in having pieces come off the car because aftermarket part weren't made right.

my only bad thing i didnt like about the megan header. it didn't take much time to get it to work, but most people don't have access to tools or even a torch like others.

 

the tube that is the closest to the driver side hits the accent slave cylinder
even if you put en extra flange it will hit