Hello everyone!
I just got done doing my 5 speed swap a few days ago with a lot of help of some friends. Everything went quite well which I was honestly surprised about. The overall hardest thing was to cut out the hole in the firewall for the shifter cables, and even so I ended up not making it big enough for the grommet (doubt it really matters since the cables are in fine). I have a few questions that I have looked around for answers and have nothing so far.

I have my airbag light on due to the fact that auto Elantra's didn't have a tach in the dash, so while we were at the yard picking up other stuff I decided getting the dash off the GLS would be a good idea, yea, not so much owned.gif. Dash started smoking as some of the traces were burned up, but nothing was damaged besides the dash that didn't work anyway. So my question here is, how can I get rid of the air bag light, besides taking it to a dealership? If it comes down to it I will just do that and get them to clear it, or go to the yard and pull the controller for the air bags, its dumb that they make the light get stuck on forever if you unplug the dash with the key in, or in my case, with the wrong dash connected.

Adding in a tach, since that looks to be the only way to get one in the car... how would I go about doing that? Is there an rpm sensor off the ECU I can grab, or do I go to the coil pack?

Another issue I am having is my CEL has always been on after I added headers and exhaust for the o2 sensor in bank 1. I am not sure what I need to do to fix this, I am thinking about going to buy the spark plug anti-fouler and try that mod out but I don't know if that is the proper way to go about fixing that. Would this have any effect on my AFR as well? I really would like to get something so I can actually tune my AFR but would it be pointless to do that on an NA motor? I assume it is running extremely rich now too since I have killed 3 or so cats in 2 years.

Lastly, I have 112k on the motor with the stock timing belt. What is the common breaking point for them on our motors? No offense but it looks like a huge PITA to change it and the only two reasons I am even considering it are because I want to put in the 1.8 cam and I am afraid of it breaking and destroying half the head sad.gif

Thanks for the help, Matt

 

Welcome to the forums Matt.

To answer your questions, the only real way to get rid of the airbag light is to either:

A. Take the light out behind the dash.
B. Find someone that has a high end scan tool that can physically erase the code. Normal ODBII scanners cannot do this and you will need to find a high end SnapOn scanner that can.

You can add a tachometer, all you need to do it tap into a wire or do a gauge cluster swap. Personally I would do the gauge cluster swap, most models that do not have the tach on the OE cluster have the wiring on the back.

What type of header do you have. I used to have the crappy SSA one and never had an issue. I would try the anti-fouler as well, are you sure you don't just have a bad oxygen sensor?

Also, about your timing belt, change is ASAP! You are way overdue if you have not done it yet. You can go to RockAuto.com and find the Gates timing belt, which is the OE part Hyundai used one most of the Elantra/Tiburon's.

 

The majority of your questions you could answer yourself with some diligent use of the advanced search feature here. Also, we give n00bs a couple of freebies (this thread) but then the moderators start drillsergeant.gif

Gage cluster: they will need some rewiring or rerouting of traces on the panel.

Airbags: if the light stays on with the original instrument cluster installed, have a dig through the for sale section. . . forever ago I posted up an airbag set from a 98 Elantra that nobody wanted. See if it's the same as the one you have in your car.

 

The spark plug fouler work great for me. Make sure when you extend your cables to run them in a way that they not have a chance of melting into your exhaust. It happened to me, it started grounding my ecu and causing it to blow it out my 30 amp fuse inside the hood.

 

When I buy my timing belt, do I need the kit for the tensioner and idler, or just the belt?

 

Personally I'd get the kit and change it all, just to give peace of mind that all those parts are new.

 

^do it all at once so you wont have to do again.

 

Thanks a lot guys tongue.gif

 

At 112k, do the water pump as well. 95% of the work to replace the coolant pump, you do for the timing belt. "While you're in there . . . ."

I'll note if it makes you feel better about spending the money, that my timing belt idler bearing was blown out and leaking grease around 120k miles

 

Thanks, I will go ahead and do the water pump at the same time. Stocker, I noticed you mentioned about the long rev and there being something that restricts that on the slave cylinder that helps fix the issue, where would that be at? tongue.gif I also notice that when shifting into 2nd at any high RPM, it will buck slightly and not grab like the rest of the gears, is that just how the clutch is, or is it something with my shifter cables or shifter assembly? I still need to add bolts to the top of the shifter assembly to hold it down which might very well be the cause of it. It seems to grab into 1st pretty damn well :x