For reasons I refuse to admit I'm having to replace the front knuckles while installing the coilovers... srsly, don't ask. Since I'm going to this extent would you guys think there's any benefit to having some tubular arms made? Cost is not the factor I'm most interested in, since I'm going all in on this is there any major benefit to a tube design over the stock units?

 

Semi-sprung weight reduction is always a good thing as long as strength isn't compromised.



Adjustability can be built into custom a-arms, which is generally a good thing.



Major benefit, not really unless you have a goal that can't be accomplished with the stock units.

 

i looked into gettin a tubular setup made a while back. nice thing is you can swap to a different ball joint while you are at it and not be stuck with the ones we have now(get a bolt in setup instead of the press fit or even setup a kingpin style) and you can change the bushings to a more commonly available (ie cheaper) bushing instead of being stuck with getting say YaYa bushings



being able to add some caster adjustments would be REALLY nice also



also, while they are being created, you can do a 2 link setup to help with traction (like the old drag bars APE sold) and have the tabs welded in right away



and while i maybe talkin out of my ass as its been a while since i looked into it, but im pretty sure you could widen the track width some which would help with handling a bit



but yeah, its mainly unsprung weight and geometry is the benefits



heres an old thread i had bookmarked that the neon guys came up with, lots of info



http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...m-Design/page8



(now that i gave you some ideas, how about you send me a pm with what you did )

 

Maybe. It'd take a LOT of planning though. You'd want to be certain that the new arms are going to be at least as strong as the old ones, although that probably isn't too hard. Changing the geometry is kinda like opening pandora's box though. Change one thing and everything else goes out of whack.



If you're most interested in the geometry, yes do it. It'd take a lot of work to get it right, but so does a turbo kit.

Another option would be modifying/adapting stock units to do what you would like. Moving the ball joint around could allow you to specialise the suspension for one thing or another.

 

Going to talk to my tuner about options next week since I'm not a welder by any stretch of the imagination.

I want a stronger piece first and foremost, but added geometric options would be a huge plus. And like Faith said, improved balljoint and bushing options would make a hell of a a difference as well. I'd like to see a slightly wider stance, but getting custom axle shafts cut is likely out of the question for my focus. For now I'm going to wait and see what they say and focus my attention back on the meat and/or potatoes of the build.

 

could always measure out the axle length and tooth count you need, then see if any OEM non hyundai axles would work



but thats a PITA

 

according to my research it's a 25 spline, the shorter shaft is 25 9/32 inch and longer is 36 5/16 inch. But it doesn't tell me whether thats the auto or manual so no idea if that's even reliable maths.











(also, there is no way in hell I'm giving you ammo.)

 

Perhaps a 5-10% increase in track width at the expense of custom axles, increased scrub radius, side loads on the shock absorber, possibly some bump steer too. Some of it could be mitigated by moving the ball joint, but then you gotta look at the steering arms to reset your ackermann and bump steer. Maybe you could tilt the shock to prevent side load, but then the dampers aren't moving as far nor as linearly, and the roll center will change - plus the roll center is probably not going to be fixed any more...



qFKY8.jpg

 

yes but custom axles can get you an intermediate shaft and equal length axles



auto axles are just a hair longer you dont need to switch axles in a manual swap



tibbi I bet you ive done dumber things before.....

 

I've been drinking so it don't give a sh*t:



I removed the wheel bearings and while waiting for the new one to arrive in the mail was told by the old apt complex that I had to move the car or it was going to be deemed derelict and towed... so I drove it a good 1/2 mile with no bearings, bare axle on knuckle. Then during the move my asshat of a father wasn't paying a attention when he was supposed to be directing me in the moving truck with Tib en-tow. I dropped half of the truck in the creek outside our new house and instead of trying to fix the issue, unhooked the poor thing and drive it up our entire drive way into the garage without bearings or front brake calipers (doing the XG BBK and hadn't installed the new calipers yet.) When I finally parked him the axle was heavily scored and the entire mechanism was steaming and visually glowing from heat (though a very dull glow.)



To sum it up in a word: ragequit.