Ok, thankyou. So it looks like that would rule out a fuse. And the wire between the fuse and the instrument panel would not have been cut. So unless the specific wires between airbag, SES, Oil pressure, and Charge have all been cut, then I will need to actually look at the guage cluster like everyone is telling me to. I just wanted to rule out every other option.

Yes, I have a multimeter, but unfortunately to many lights work on that circuit for it to be the fuse IMO.

 

Well, here's a quick idea to find out if it's the cluster.

Find a friend with a RD1 or 2 and swap clusters for a minute.

Tada.

LOL

Did you allready check the bulbs yet or not?

 

Ya, I guess I COULD swap the guage cluster over. Maybe if I could get one at a wrecker? that would be a last resort however.
no, i have not taken it apart yet. Remember It was -35ËšC Yesterday, and today is not much warmer. I will probably wait until spring 'till I take that apart as I dont have a warm garage.
And yes, Tibby01s Glow DIY is on order along with LED's behind the guages.

 

backlighting gauges isn't as easy as it may seem, ask Tibby01. It takes me 14 hours of work minimum, and about 70 LEDs. here's some pix of patreezys cluster. The last picture is his EL gauges. Those are the easiest. total of 5 hours of work.

 

shoot, guess I didnt search enough. owned.gif I never realized it would take that long to just change a few bulbs. But then again, I've never taken off my guages yet, so how should I know. shrug.gif
70 LEDs?? I think I have 50 widespread ones, but I had other plans for some of them. I'm hoping 70 was an exageration??

 

a bit of an exageration... 63 total.... you need 3mm for needles and it would be best to use EL gauges for the rest. you can get away with just 14 LEDs for needles

 

Allright, back on topic...
So I got a chance to look at the gauge cluster and this is what I saw.


Argh! Those dirty buggers just took out the whole bulb for the CEL! (top left bulb) If I had known I had a code, I would have known to change my TPS... owned by trial and error..)
While I was in there I noticed that the backlight bulbs behind the fuel gauge had sketchy connections. That was why THEY were cutting in and out. (a little electrical tape fixed that problem)
Anyways, I knew that I was going to be taking apart the cluster, so I ordered these from KSPEC:

Bros gauges - Sports car performance with the interior of a luxury SALOON!! hail.gif

I know, the camera was shaking, (if only the LCD wasnt cracked owned.gif ) but I can tell you they look good, even with the stocker bulbs. And for those of you worried about legalities, these do have MPH on the inside ring. (I believe the old BROS ones didn't)

-end of post-

 

Great mang, so problem fixed?

I'd go get the ASS at whoever sold you that car with the CEL bulb out. f***ers.

The old Bros had the markers too.

 

ya, Problem fixed. I took the bulb for my seatbelt light and put it in place of the CEL. No codes yet, so looks like I'm good. The bulb for the airbag was also taken out.
only gripe with the gauges is that there is no cruise light, and you can see certain parts of the gauge are brighter than the others.
ya, it would kinda be nice if the person that sold me the car would tell me what was wrong with it. That way I could fix it!
And something else I noticed while browsing webtech is that my oil pressure sensor on the front of my engine is broken, which helps to explain my oil light issue.

 

usually people end up removing a light after putting on a header or some other after market mod and they can't get it to run without CEL. They remove the airbag light when they do a gauge mod and they trip the light. Since your lamp holders are missing, you can solder a new light onto the copper connections if you want. it works.





the reason these gauges are dimmer in certain places is because they don't have the stock diffusion on them. PM me if you'd like me to do a backlight mod.