sorry bout that, this better?

 

much better, thanks. wink.gif

 

Dont forget about the E-Manage. Especially if you are looking at turbo. With a little work you can get the ignition system hooked up and running and you would be set.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (iamcyclopseatme)</div><div class='quotemain'>All the dyno sheets ive seen on the beta1 shows HP drop off BELOW 6500 RPM, which would make a 7k redline pointless wouldnt it?</div>
We must have been looking at the same sheets laugh.gif

 

I agree, everything remaining the same, a 7k redline won't give you anything. However, if you change timing, fuel maps (with the ecu) and other mods, it's well worth it wink.gif

Plus, even if it didn't give you any power gains, it will give you something else, freedom! On a track, you can stay in the same gear while the other guy will have to shift up for a few seconds or use another line that is not as good by braking earlier. Either way, the guy with the 7000rpm is gonna be faster in those conditions.

 

Unless you rods snap like twigs. The rev limiter is set for a reason. Mostly being that the stock internals cant handle it. Without upgrading those as well you have little to no reason to ever need to be that high in the RPM band unless as I said about you want to snap your rods like twigs. And when they do you can do this lol.gif

 

Read up fooz:
Random on HA.com wrote
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>Some of you have asked me. Why go to the 1.8L crank?
The short answer? Piston speed

Here are some average piston speeds for the 1.8L vs the 2.0L based off stroke.

1.8L 85mm stroke 3.34 inch stroke
6750 3758 Feet per Minute
7000 3897 Feet per Minute
7500 4175 Feet per Minute
8000 4453 Feet per Minute
8500 4732 Feet per Minute
9000 5010 Feet per Minute
9500 5288 Feet per Minute
10000 5570 Feet per Minute

2.0L 93.5mm stroke = 3.68 inch stroke
6750 4140 Feet per Minute
7000 4293 Feet per Minute
7500 4600 Feet per Minute
8000 4907 Feet per Minute
8500 5213 Feet per Minute
9000 5520 Feet per Minute
9500 5827 Feet per Minute
10000 6150 Feet per Minute

There is 10% less average piston speed at each RPM. That means less wear, less stress on the bearings, con-rods, pistons, etc..etc..etc...

The rule of thumb for normal passenger cars is that average piston speed should not exceed 4000 FPM. "Performance" motors that the average ethusiasts builds can withstand 5000 FPM. Only Forumla 1 and 100% dedicated race motors can withstand 6000 FPM and more, and those can't stand it for long (only 500 miles at best).

It looks like my limit is going to be 9000 RPM, right about the 5000 FPM limit. 2.0L motor hits that limit at about 8100 RPM.

NO I'm NOT saying that you can take your bone stoke 2.0L to 8000 RPM safely. These specs are for BUILT motors(balanced, blueprinted). I'm saying I wouldn't reccomend you take your bone stock 2.0L any higher than it is now. The stock motor is already over the 4000 FPM "rule of thumb". (Unless you are going to rebuild your motor to proper tolerances).

Okay...now the question is, why the extra RPM?
Simple. GEARING.
Let the chart below be your guide.

Gear...6750..9000
First.....37....50
Second..66....88
Third....92....123
Fourth...125...167
Fifth....156....208

When folks ask me if I'm worried about breaking 5th gear. Nope. Who needs 5th gear?(see above) It's only an overdrive gear for good fuel economy. 4th is good to 165+mph....*evil grin* No, I'm not planning on running 200+ MPH. Heck I don't even plan on topping out 4th gear (167).


Also, the MPH figures are using HMA service gear ratio information. I've got fairly good reason to believe that this information is NOT 100% accurate, so those figures might be off by up to 10-15% on what YOU see on your speedo before hitting the rev-limiter. </div>


As you can see only the 1.8L motor can SAFELY handle since the piston speed at 7000rpm is less than 4000FPM. However the 2.0L is already over the limit at 6750rpm.


i got a 1.8L and with Larrys new info I MIGHT try to get that ECU.

Larry; Does the 1.5L GT ECU have the same ECU plug harness as the Beta 1? Or did you have to do something else in order to get it to work?

 

soo looks like im buying another motor and getting that speed factor extreme kit .. what are the best pistons for that turbo kit n rods , valves or w/e i will need to not blow all the internals?

 

No, plug and play!

As for damage issue, as I said, i have been doing over 50 000km and at least 1200-1400km of track racing with that ecu and stock internals. Everything else il modified/changed (all the bolt-on + flywheel). I have no prematured wear or any trouble with it. We are 3 2.0l Accent here aud we have all been using that ecu with no problems what so ever. Theory is nice but practice is nicer, a beta1 is a very strong engine....and by the way, I don't have a beta tranny wink.gif

 

So you are ABSOLUTELY SURE that that ecu will plug into my 1997 Tiburon Rev. A 1.8L harness?

BTW, did you go to the track before and afetr changing the ecu?