my only suggestion when it comes to extending the wires for the o2 sensor.. Use the same gage wires and securely solder and then shrink wrap the connector. Using a crimp and or tape is just asking for trouble later down the road.

 

Supposedly you aren't supposed to solder the reference wire though, since the wire and plug are used for the fresh air reading. So soldering it can give you a cel. I soldered mine, however, and have not yet removed the solder in favor of a crimp connection. If my cel comes back I'm going to move my extended wire section to the other side of the harness, so that the plug is right by the O2 sensor for fresh air reading instead of two feet away.

 

Just for refence you are not supose to use soder because it will slightly change the voltage the line is reading. Considering you are talking about a .1 difference between a cel and no cel you need to be really careful with that. Every place I know recommends using the metal crimp connectors that have the shrink tubing aready in place on it. All you have to do is crimp it on the shrink the tubing over your wires and everything looks sexy again laugh.gif

 

But wouldn't crimping change the voltage even more? It seems like there would be a lot less contact between the joined wires with crimps...years of stereo installs makes crimping just seem wrong. smile.gif

If my cel comes back I'll just crimp them all though. And probably wrap my header while I'm at it. That thing puts off a lot of heat.

 

Well I guess it all maters how YOU crimp it. When I crimp it I always make the striped part long enough that it goes partially through to the other side. This way you are guarenteed that the wires will actually be touching not just transfering the voltage through the crimp piece.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (fonseca)</div><div class='quotemain'>And probably wrap my header while I'm at it. That thing puts off a lot of heat.</div>

Heat wrap is the devil. And it being that your wrapping something that may be poorly made makes it worse. Ceramic coat it if your going to try and keep heat out of the engine bay.

 

Well, I haven't looked into it yet, but I was going to try and locate header wrap that didn't retain too much heat to avoid the risk of cracking. Surely there's something out there with a low rating? I doubt I'll ceramic coat them, simply because of price and because I'd have to send them off and be without a car for a week. Plus I'd probably buy a higher quality header and get that done if I was going to invest in ceramic coating.

I'm sure there are much better headers out there, but all the welds I checked had excellent penetration. That was my biggest concern. I don't have much faith in the "limited lifetime warranty", but if I'm lucky I won't have to find out.

 

If I'm not mistaken they have ceramic coat spray... probably not as effective as professional coating but it will help.

 

interesting that soldering would cause more problems than a crimp.. I thought the voltage drop on an aluminum crimp would be worse than a high quality silver soldered joint.

 

Ok does the first O2 sensor meter the air/fuel ratio top tell the computer to add or subtract fuel from the engine? Does the second one do the same thing? I was thinking about buying the OBX header and putting an O2 simulator in for the second O2 sensor. Would that work? Any suggestions?