thearkatek

Ok I'll check that next. I was under the impression that we only have a camshaft position sensor, yet on a couple websites I found both the camshaft position sensor as well as a crank position sensor. They both do the same thing so why would you be able to buy both?

daytonmvp23

Have you checked your spark plugs? Condition of each plug? For instance are they completely black, or yellow, or white or do some look different then the other ones? Check to make sure they are operating correctly with the proper color spark?
Did you make sure the grounds on the car are connected and working properly?
Did you check fuel pressure?
How about vacuum or compression?
When something isn't working right I usually run down the fuel, air, and ignition(spark) problems first. More then likely if it starts up and runs fine and progressively gets worse it usually ends up being a failing electronic component.
But I always test the simplest first unless the cause is obvious.
Also if you don't have the tools like vac or compression tester the local part stores usually have one you can borrow with a deposit and get it all back when you are done. Pay cash and they will give you cash back so you don't have to wait for a refund on the credit card.
Other then that I would start testing all the electrical components with a multimeter to make sure they are within specs for voltage and resistance.

Regit

Wow,..thursday on my way home my tps sh*t the bed,on the highway,.same symptoms you are describing, i couldnt get her past say 2000 rpm?.towtruck home., I have an aftermarket ecu but my laptop was dead,so I swapped the tps from my stock tib(and vice versa) both tibs started??, so,got out the multimeter,checked voltage,it was fluttering?,ripped the wires open from the tps connector back about 6 inches and one let go as it was only connected by one frail strand of the wire!, after a lil solder , The laptop was reconnected and the tps calibrated again all is fine..Dont know if this will help ya,but wiggle the crap outta your tps wire..you never know..i didnt.

ps,up your idle a bit,just adjust your cable and reset ecu(discon batt)

SR Tech

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (iheartmyrd @ Aug 9 2010, 12:11 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>i say ckp sensor, that's just my 2 cents.</div>

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DTN

The car will run with any of the sensors disconnected. If you disconnect one of them and it runs better then you've isolated the problem.

CKP will cause the car not to start. CMP will cause timing issues. The problem is most likely in your ignition system: plugs, wires, coils, or in a air flow sensor like the TPS or MAF. The IAC is unlikely but an easy check none-the-less.

thearkatek

I checked out all the wires and they seem alright. I wiggled the hell out of them and it didn't affect anything. I'm still wondering why we have both a crank position sensor and a camshaft position sensor. They report the same thing don't they....?

Stocker

One reports crank position, the other reports cam position. Is this not obvious?

thearkatek

yes that is obviously obvious. But they are directly connected and are both used for timing. Anyway it's not a big deal I was just curious.

Stocker

They are connected when everything is not broken. They are in time when everything is lined up straight.

thearkatek

Ah ok so it’s more or less a redundancy thing?
Yesterday I disconnected my upstream O2 sensor, reset the ECU and drove around. It worked pretty much exactly the same. I reconnected the O2 sensor, cleaned my MAF, checked the entire intake for leaks, wiggled and inspected all the wires involved with the intake sensors and it still worked exactly the same. Here are a few other things that are happening just in case someone has had similar symptoms:
- Even while coasting in neutral the RPMs seem to be dependent on the car speed. For example if I’m coasting along at a good speed the RPMs will sit around 1.5K. As I come to a stop the RPMs drop and as I’m sitting at a stop the idle problem kicks in.
- It only idles rough when after it hits operating temperature. While it’s cold it idles high.
- When I blip the throttle the RPMs drop before shooting up.
- It hesitates every once in a while in random gears at random revs and random throttle positions.
- Usually when I start it up it catches after 1 or 2 cranks, but other times it takes 4 or 5. I don’t think this is all that important but I thought I’d throw it in.
- All these problems have been getting worse. Progressively and exponentially worse.