OK, before anyone gives me the infamous "searchplzkthx" line..

Here's a list of threads I've already read:



https://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/f...2-engine-swap/

https://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/f...9-beta-2-swap/

https://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/f...e-swap-thread/

https://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/f...s-beta-2-swap/

https://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/f...buron-project/

https://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/f...ds-on-a-beta2/

https://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/f...eta2-question/



I found some mention of old Z man saying it was outlined in the FAQ, but I have no idea where that went since RDT disappeared.



So far what I've learned:

Everyone says "drops right in" - BUT....

Must be non-CVVT, from an 01-03 Elantra, or 03 Tiburon (right?)

Hammer down the lower cross member a bit

Maybe the alternator harness is the same?

Maybe have to change the speed sensor in the tranny?

Maybe the thermostat sensor?

Something about the beta 2 being MAP? (I have a MAF sensor, obviously..)

Something needs to be modified to get the oil pan to fit?

Modify crank sensor to run a constant 12v to it?

Anything else??

And just what needs to be done if it came from a car with an automatic tranny (and you have a manual)? Modify some plate?



Can anyone clear this stuff up? For a topic where I found multiple threads saying "Its been discussed plenty of times please search. Closed" - there sure seems to be a lot of conflicting info. Unless I didn't manage to find the good threads or something...



I'd really like a COMPLETE list of what I'm getting into before I spend $500 on an engine



Thanks

 

No real point in doing the swap. The cvvt is the only thing on a Beta2 that I'd want on my Beta1.

 

That's not at all what I've read. Also, CVVT makes tuning very hard.



Plus, they're easier to find

 

I believe an elantra beta II oil pan is what I used and did not requ

ire massaging of the cross member.

 

no hla's, better block design, better oiling



factory cam is better than the 1.8 cam

 

If in doubt, you can swap any non-matching or troublesome accessories from the beta I onto your new beta II until it all works. I'd say your biggest problem would actually be wiring, because almost all of the sensors are different generations.

 

ugh



how clear do I have to make this



you can use a beta 2 block and beta 2 head and beta 2 oil pan and just swap all of your sensors and manifolds from the beta 1 onto it





not a hard concept

 

You say that, but then when you search for threads on people that have done this they bring up all these wiring issues. Are all the sensor pinouts the same? As in plug and play from beta 2 to beta 1? I understand that the block and head drop in fine. However.. I specifically read something about the cps, t stat, and alternator being different in some other threads. Why does optimoprime's DIY include changing all the sensors?

It simply is not all that "clear" dude....

 

thermostat housing would be considered a manifold



ALL YOUR DAMN SENSORS no wiring issues when you are REUSING ALL YOUR DAMN SENSORS



if it plugged into your car in the first place, then the wiring going to the exact location to the exact same sensor should NOT have to be modified



REUSE ALL YOUR OLD sh*t, JUST REPLACE THE BLOCK, HEAD, AND OIL PAN



here ill make a list of all the stuff youll reuse



INTAKE MANIFOLD

THROTTLE BODY

FUEL RAIL

FUEL INJECTORS

MAF

IDLE AIR MOTOR

CRANK SENSOR

CAM SENSOR

EXHAUST MANIFOLD

OIL PRESSURE SWITCH

THERMOSTAT HOUSING

COOLANT TEMP SENSOR

ALTERNATOR(beta 2 is better, but i dont recall if they just bolt right on, i just reused my old one)

POWER STEERING PUMP

A/C COMPRESSOR

COIL PACK

AIR TEMP SENSOR

BRACKETS FOR SAID ACCESSORIES

DRIVE BELTS

MOTOR MOUNTS

FLYWHEEL/FLEXPLATE



THIS IS WHAT YOU WILL USE FROM A BETA 2 MOTOR



ASSEMBLED CYLINDER HEAD

VALVE COVER

ASSEMBLED SHORT BLOCK

OIL PAN

 

.... What is an HLA ?

and I have read many times that the 1.8 cams will add 12-17 hp depending on efficiency of other engine areas.