I've been having a hard time on this one. Last week I replaced my RD steering wheel with that of the GK for another mod I'm doing (~13" 2003 tib steering wheel, WITH airbag). anyway, it happens that the RD steering wheel has a different housing for the clockspring connector, than that of the GK (in ours', the hole for the clockspring harness, where it goes into the steering wheel, is at 6 o'clock, whereas in the GK, it's at 12 o'clock). Anwyay, I did something I shouldn't have, and just simply rotated the clockspring connector to the 12 o'clock position so that I could actually install the GK steering wheel. Ok, I know that's bad, but only if you actually go and turn your steering wheel all the way to one way or the other, thereby risking busting the wire connections inside the clockspring. But I didn't turn my steering wheel to either direction.

Now, if you look into the connector at the back of the airbag, you'll see 2 prongs. Look at the very base of these prongs, and you'll notice that there are some other 2 metal connectors (perpendicular to each other), that are connected to each prong. I'm pretty sure only a few of you have noticed these. Those are there to protect the airbag from being deployed as a result of static energy when the airbag is DISCONNECTED from the car (example: during storage). When you actually connect it to the car, the connector that comes out of the clockspring, actually depresses those last 2 metal connectors, thereby disconnecting that protective mechanism (ie. no deployment when airbag in storage). On my clockspring, the connector is messed up, and only disconnects one of these 2 protective connectors - you have to jam a plastic piece to manually separate it on one side. Anyway, I forgot to do this, and connected the (-) battery post. Turned on the ignition, but didn't start the car, and immediately got the the airbag light.

I thought that it was because I forgot to jam the plastic piece, so I did that. Reconnected the battery, still the airbag light was on. I thought, "maybe I just have to get it erased and then it'll be fine".

So I took it to my local mechanic who has a hi-scan. He erased the code, but still it came back. He asked me if I had removed the clockspring. That's when I was like, "SHIT!, I probably snapped something inside it when I drove it to him!". Anyway, I saw on his scan tool the code was:

"B1352 - PAB Resistance too high"

Ok, took the car home, and tested the clockspring for continuity. Funny thing, I have continuity across all airbag wires, and the horn works.

Nonetheless, I replaced the clockspring with that of the GK (where the connector lines up properly with the GK steering wheel - 12 o'clock).

I then took my original RD clockspring apart to see if there was something busted. Nope. Everything was fine.

Now I have to take it back to the mechanic to get the codes erased, hoping that it really was the clockspring (which I REALLY DOUBT, 'cause I had continuity on my RD clockspring).

So here are my questions:

1. can a clockspring be bad but still have continuity along all lines?!

2. if all problems with the airbag are fixed, would the touble code clear up on its own, or do you really need to manually get it scanned and cleared?

3. why is the *PAB* (passenger air bag) resistance too high? should it be the DAB (driver's side)?

4. any ideas?

 

Does anyone know what a PITA to diagnose an airbag issue (seen by airbag light), *WITHOUT* a scanner to read the codes?! Well, I do!!

<span style="font-size:14pt;line-height:100%">The good news:</span> I found and fixed my problem!! hail.gif fing02.gif cool.gif

The bad news: it cost me $110

Let me explain. As you can see from my original post, I was working on the driver side airbag, and then got the airbag light. Went to a local mechanic shop who said the code was B1352 (PAB resistance high - Passenger). The guy tells me that it had to do with my driver airbag since that's what I working on (and I admit that I agreed with him, but still wondered why the heck the airbag light pointing to trouble in the passenger - b1352). As I tried different things, I had to go back and get it rescanned (cost me $30 each time, for the guy to read the code/clear the light, and that was the cheapest I could find).

So, let me answer my own questions for others searching in the future, and also let everyone know what was my solution.

1. can clockspring be bad and still have continuity in all lines:
NO. If it has continuity in all lines, then the clockspring is NOT bad.

2. if all airbag problems are fixed, does the airbag light go away on its own?
NOT ON THE RD TIBURON! Don't listen to what anybody says, unfortunately, in our cars, the damn light WILL NOT go away even if the problem has been fixed. You MUST get it cleared by a high-scan tool. This is not the case in other cars, though. But for ours', that's what it is: IT WON'T GO OFF ON ITS OWN!

3. Resistance high code (B1352 for DAB, and B1346 for PAB), means one of 3 things:

a. short circuit or an open in the wiring somewhere
b. bad airbag (very unlikely)
c. bad airbag control module


Ok, so what was my problem? In our cars, we have 2 connectors that connect the airbag car wiring to the airbags (ie. one for the driver, and one for the passenger). Both of these connectors have something called "shorting bars" inside the plastic connectors. These shorting bars act as a deterrent to have the airbag go off inadvertently while working on it with the wiring disconnected from the car (a safety feature). When you snap the male end of the connector to the female end of the connector, there's a plastic piece that will wedge itself between the shorting bars and the prongs which lead to the airbag. When this happens, then yes, there is resistance across both pins. Imagine this. While taking my dash apart, I must've TOUCHED or SCRAPED WITH MY ARM!!, against the passenger connector, which happens to be slightly above the deck, to the right-side. Simply touching the connector, dislodged this plastic piece (which is inside the connector and you can't see at all), thus shorting the airbag wiring, causing a high resistance.

If you get either of the high (or low) resistance codes (B1346, B1347, B1352, B1353), check these damn connectors. They are SENSITIVE! The same happened on the driver-side, to me. For a moment, I was so discouraged 'cause the mechanic I went to, to get a reading on his machine, said that I had 2 faults. If you don't have to, DON'T TOUCH these connectors!

I have learned so much about the airbags, how to troubleshoot them in our cars, what cautions to take, and how it all works. My plan is to create a diy TONIGHT, on how to troubleshoot the airbag system. Afraid of airbags accidentally deploying on you while troubleshooting them? Fear not!! You're in for a surprise when I tell you how to troubleshoot while being 150% certain that they won't deploy (hint. disconnect them altogether). Watch for my diy tonight. Of course, I could never make such a statement without putting a disclaimer of: you must be cautious, careful, and I take no responsibility for injury (personal or otherwise) or damage to your car. I'm confident in my work, my abilities, and my careful nature. Having said that, my descriptions and instructions are for your reading, and I do not endorse/recommend that you work on the airbags yourself.

 

As part of your DIY, find a video online of someone deploying an airbag with something on top of it (at a junkyard they do this for kicks as a way to deactivate the bags for safety . . . it sends whatever was on top, flying in to the sky).

 

Yeap, I know which one you're talking about. I played it back like 10 times laugh.gif

 

Darn, that stinks. So I have to pay someone to get my airbag light off! Mine came on when my alternator went bad (overcharging), and I have been searching everywhere to see how to get the darn thing off. I can pull the fuse out and it goes off LOL, but that's typically not a good idea! Thanks for posting this!! Looking forward to the DIY!!

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (BLKTIB @ Apr 26 2010, 07:41 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Darn, that stinks. So I have to pay someone to get my airbag light off! Mine came on when my alternator went bad (overcharging), and I have been searching everywhere to see how to get the darn thing off. I can pull the fuse out and it goes off LOL, but that's typically not a good idea! Thanks for posting this!! Looking forward to the DIY!!</div>

I recently replaced my alternator and now the airbag light is on. To be totally honest I'm not sure the alternator fixed my problem. The light could mean the car is about to shut off, let's hope I make it home. In any event thanks to the OP for giving me an idea of how to address the airbag light issue if needed.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (mosul210 @ Jun 22 2010, 09:29 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>I recently replaced my alternator and now the airbag light is on. To be totally honest I'm not sure the alternator fixed my problem. The light could mean the car is about to shut off, let's hope I make it home. In any event thanks to the OP for giving me an idea of how to address the airbag light issue if needed.</div>


SAME thing happened to me this week. Did you get your charging system issue solved? Please PM me if you did. I have put 3 different alternators in and it's a no-go.