krazytib

Alright, the car just started doing this. It takes about 30sec to 1min of cranking before the car will kinda start idling at about 200rpm for like 5 sec before jumping up to about 2000rpm. Once the car starts I can drive it just fine but it doesn't want to idle normally. It takes like 10sec for the idle to drop from 2,000rpm down to about 1,000rpm where it stays there instead of dropping to 650 - 700rpm like normal. I also noticed the temp gauge showing the car was running cool on my way home except the engine fan was running like it was hot.

As soon as I turn the car off, i have to crank it again for like a minute to get that slow start. I also noticed the exhaust smelling like it wasn't burning the fuel right after I get the car re-fired. Maybe my timing is being thrown off by the engine temp sensor?

Im going to go start testing stuff and wondered if anyone had any other ideas that I should look into.

thx

DTN

If it smells like fuel, then the problem is in the ignition system.

You should go get the codes read. I'm sure you have at least 2 codes from a check engine light. If you don't have a check engine light on, get the bulb replaced. Until then, you're on your own because noone will be able to give you a good answer.

krazytib

Ok, just pulled out my scanner and had a pending code of P0117 - Engine coolant temperature circuit low input.

Stocker

Test the ECT sensor. It is a big part of the fueling system.

Dragonmp5

That's funny, I didn't know the ECT sensor had anything to do with fuel, I thought it had something to do with coolant, isn't that why it says Engine COOLANT Temperature? No it doesn't have anything to do with a problem starting unless there is no coolant at all. Have you ever changed the fuel filter, checked the Idle Control Actuator or maybe its a problem with leaking injectors which could cause the hard to start part of your problem along with the fuel smell in the exhaust. I have had this problem with a car I used to have and had to replace the injectors. If you want to try to fix these problem yourself then you should get a repair manual and maybe even someone who is a bit of a mechanic. Your ect sensor and the fan continuously on is telling you there is a problem with the cooling system. Your rough idle could may even be caused by a bad fuel pressure regulator.

Stocker

^ dumb mass.

gtfo2.gif

The coolant temperature sensor is part of the fueling system according to Hyundai's online manual, but who are they to know? It's also part of the hard starting troubleshooting matrix they put out, but those HMC engineers are a bunch of idiots really. I mean, coolant sensors are basically just rice/bling right? What good does it do to know coolant temperatures anyway?

thearkatek

"I mean, coolant sensors are basically just rice/bling right?" < my new favorite quote!

And for Dragon's second post ever that was pretty dickish.

daytonmvp23

So are you saying hyundai is using the TSU or the coolant sensor to report to the computer? Most cars use the coolant sensor for the computer and have the Temp Sending Unit that goes directly to the dash panel. And if the fan is kicking on then the coolant sensor is probably functional but the TSU which controls the gauge is probably bad.
But taking that long to crank and overheating enough to constantly kick on the fan (assuming you are not in the arizona desert) would suggest another problem. Like a headgasket or a cooling problem waterpump, thermostat. Check your oil, check your coolant and look for milkshake brown in either and if not run the car for about 5 minutes just casual driving and then feel the radiator hoses both should be warm.

Stocker

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (krazytib @ Aug 22 2010, 06:21 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Ok, just pulled out my scanner and had a pending code of P0117 - Engine coolant temperature circuit low input.</div>

hyundaitechinfo > DTM > TIBURON(RC) >2001 > G 2.0 DOHC > Engine > Engine Control > DTC - P0116, P0117, P0118 > Diagnostic Procedure

TROUBLESHOOTING FOR DTC P0116, P0117, P0118
DTC P0117
Diagnostic Item Engine Coolant Temperature Low Input

DESCRIPTION
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

DTC detection condition
Background
a. The engine coolant temperature sensor coverts the engine coolant temperature to a voltage and outputs it.
b. The engine control module checks whether the voltage is within a specified range. In addition, it checks that the engine coolant temperature (signal) does not drop while the engine is warming up.
Check area, Judgment Criteria
a. Sensor output voltage has continued to be 4.6V or higher [corresponding to a coolant temperature of -45°C (-49°F) or lower] for 4 sec.
b. Sensor output voltage has continued to be 0.1V or lower [corresponding to a coolant temperature of 140°C (284°F) or higher] for 4 sec.
Check area, Judgment Criteria
a. Sensor output voltage increased from a value lower than 1.6V to a value higher than 1.6V [Coolant temperature decreases from a higher than 40°C temperature (104°F) temperature to a lower than 40°C (104°F) temperature.].
b. Then the sensor output voltage has continued to be 1.6V or higher for 5 min.
Check area
a. The engine coolant temperature is approx. 40°C (104°F) or less after starting sequence is completed.
Judgment Criteria
a. Approx. 60 - 300 seconds have passed for the engine coolant temperature to rise to about 40°C (104°F) after starting sequence was completed.

Probable cause
a. Engine coolant temperature sensor failed
b. Open or shorted engine coolant temperature sensor circuit, or loose connector
c. Engine control module failed

CIRCUIT DIAGRAM


TEST PROCEDURE

Stocker

See also:
https://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/forum/in...st&p=601580