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So here's a little history on this car. It was purchase around 2005 by a buddy on here (Turbo Tom) as a 1.8 all motor car. about a year and a half ago he made it turbo using all DSM parts (manifold, 14B, 390cc auto injectors, down pipe, etc.) and since he didn't change the harness he tuned via S-AFC. He drove around reliably with no issues, but it had two major problems: the weak Hyundai auto trans and stock Hyundai ecu did not sit well with the turbo set up. The ecu was not for turbo and the car ran great at WOT but super rich or super lean on daily driving. The Hyundai transmission would NOT shift at WOT unless I feathered off the throttle, clutch packs would just slip. I tried the 2G DSM TCU (transmission control module) and it shifted at higher RPM yet didn't make a difference at WOT, to much load. Now me and Tom have seen what tuned 1.6L (4G61) dodge colts and mirages could do, so what the heck a 1.8L 4g67 can do damage as well!! Already doing a 4g63 swap in my Hyundai Excel I wanted to see what the original Elantra engine was made of...hope you guys enjoyed the build thread!

epinero

So the first thing I decided to change was the transmission. Since the elantra engine is mitsu based, I was able to swap in the 1G DSM auto transmission bolts up to the block fine. The things I needed to change was the flex plate for a turbo DSM one along with the turbo DSM torque converter, change the pilot bearing to the DSM one, and the starter for a DSM one. Also where the shifter cable connects to the trans has to be slightly modded since the DSM bracket is square shaped and needs to be a circle (the pix will explain). U can use the stock shifter cable and shifter.



First thing to change when the hyundai tranny is removed is the pilot bearing that sits in the crank (thats the thing that aligns the t-converter to the block):



Left shows elantra bearing, right shows the DSM bearing u need to use

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The elantra uses a smaller t-converter and uses a three bolts to connect to the flexplate. The DSM t-converter uses four. Bolt the DSM flex plate to the crank and toss the elantra one. Here's what the DSM flexplate looks like:



KEEP THE SPACERS!!

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So now that the tranny was in, I needed to connect the shifter cable. I needed to make the DSM bracket on the trans have a "circle" hole like the elantra one so I used a washer and welded it on. Here's what I mean:



Stock elantra trans bracket:



Modded DSM trans bracket:

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Now unless can figure out how to rewire the trans connectors to work with the elantras stock harness, I'd recommend just doing the manual full line pressure (firm shifts) mod Kiggly racing style. This mod allows you to manually shift the gears. The two main tranny connectors clip right in but will be stuck in limp mode (3rd all the time) since the TCU doesn't know if it's in or out of park, where the shifter is set, etc...thats why I just removed the TCU altogether. Here's the Kiggly mod:





Here is my shifter set up inside the car. I removed the oem grip and welded on my own grip, left the "push down" button on top, and removed the eco switch and replaced it with a flip switch for the overdrive engagement:



(not the prettiest thing but it works!)

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Now that the new DSM trans was in I took it for a spin: CRAP!!!! The stock elantra ecu still sucked lol it just wasn't moving the turbo the way I liked even w the s-afc. I decided I'm ripping out the elantra harness in place if the 1G DSM harness. I used a 1G automatic harness, but if your doing the Kiggly mod u can use a 5-speed harness since u won't be using the TCU. So after u rip out the oem hyundai harness you need to drill a hole on the passanger side firewall for the DSM harness to go through, since the hyundai harness goes through the driver side. Its a crappy process but unless you feel like unwrapping the DSM harness and relooming it this is your only option.

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Now to wire the DSM harness to the hyundai chassis, you need 12v constant power, 12v key on power, starter switch, fuel pump, and ground. To wire the fuel pump you need to tap into the yellow wire that comes off the big white connector on the dash. Since the fuel pump wiring is part of the hyundai harness (which is removed) I cut the connector leaving only the yellow wire that powers the fuel pump and wired it to a switch:





Now for the starter you have to make sure you have the fat power cable going from the starter to the positive on the battery terminal. Now on the DSM harness there are two big black w/ white stripe wires. One is the neutral safety switch and one connects to the starter solenoid on the starter. You can leave the neutral safety switch unconnected. Now inside your car under your steering wheel using a test light find out what wire lights up when you turn the key all the way to the "start" position. Connect the black w/ white striped wire from the solenoid to the wire you just found. Strangely if you look on a white connector (pictured below) I found a free unused pin that actually lead directly to the "starter" engagement, so I just added the extra pin to the factory connector:



Shown is the starter wire connected to factory hyundai chassis connector

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Now you need to connect the ECU. You need 12v constant power, 12v key on power, and ground. Grounding is easy, simply ground the ground (one from the ECU, and a set off the harness that come off the ECU connector side). If you wire everything up and your not getting spark when you crank (also can be checked by spinning the CAS (cam angle sensor))it's because there is a fat power cable on the engine side thats needs power. If you look at the harness where there's positive terminal with the three fuses its on that same branch of wiring. I wired mines into the hyundai fuse box where the same wire is used (it's kinda confusing but you'll get the idea if you do it). Also if you get spark yet you are getting no pulse to the injectors, make sure you have 12v power on the MPI relay wires on the ECU. Here's a wiring diagram taken from the ECMLINK website that should help:

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Now I had a 1G DSM MAF (mass air flow sensor) that I had prepared for the harness swap since the hyundai MAF doesn't fit, but it proved to be defective . So I wired in the better flowing 2G MAF. Here's the write up for that if your interested:

2G MAF conversion



The DSM turbo ECU also uses a knock sensor which you will need to add. There is an empty threaded hole in the back of the block under the intake manifold where it screws in perfectly. You need to remove that stupid support plate to reach it (two screws on intake manny, one on the block). Don't bother re-installing either it's useless.



I knew once the ecu was on and working I wanted to use ECMLINK to tune, and that can only be done if you have the DSM 12pin diagnostic connector. So I removed the OBD1 connector off a DSM and wired it directly to the DSM harness.



The “front side” view is looking at the diagnostic connector in the car with the male pins pointing out at you. The “reverse side” view is looking at the connector end of our cable (looking “into” the female sockets).

-Pin 12 should have connectivity to chassis ground.

-Pin 1 of the diagnostic connector should connect with pin 1 on the ECU.

-Pin 10 of the diagnostic connector should connect with pin 2 on the ECU.

Taken from ECMLINK website

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Here's a fun clip of the antilag feature on ecmlink I did for $h!ts and giggles :biggrin: (flame is coming from the wastegate I externally dumped)

[media]http://youtu.be/VUul7qSq5dI[/media]