Wondering about camber and hellaflush
#21
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I'm not mad lol i don't take the internet that serious. Its not like i'm going to change anyone's opinion, I just think it is counter productive but they gonna do what always have been. Gencoupe sucks...and tbh this place is pretty closed minded, plus it moves slow in the Gen area.
Don't even get me started on FB LOL.
just wish there was somewhere to go in the middle ground. I don't get why there is always drama everywhere with these cars, I have never experienced this stuff previously LMAO.
its just getting boring ya know.
#22
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This place isn't closed minded, there is just a large variety of opinions. Some people think -4.5ยบ camber on stock wheels is completely non-functional. They can and will voice their opinion about it just as you can and will voice your opinion about doing what YOU like on your own car. Neither is wrong, it's just differences of opinion bro.
adding 30mm spacers to stock wheels just to have -4.5 camber doesn't make sense to me, and I have almost -3 camber myself
adding 30mm spacers to stock wheels just to have -4.5 camber doesn't make sense to me, and I have almost -3 camber myself
#23
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What I mean is this.
This all happens simultaneously. So in this diagram, the GC is going to wear the outside edge of the tyre unless it is driven in a straight line forever. For best cornering grip, you'd want to set -2.5 degrees of static camber, or slightly more because the tyre will slop around a bit. BUT: You don't spend all of your time driving in a circle at peak lateral acceleration. So if you set the static negative camber for optimal cornering, you'll wear out the inside edge after one lap or 5k miles.
SO YOU SET THE STATIC CAMBER TO REFLECT THE AMOUNT OF FULL LOAD CORNERING YOU DO.
IF YOU DO THIS, YOU WILL GET A SLIGHT AMOUNT OF POSITIVE CAMBER DURING CORNERING, AND EVEN TYRE WEAR.
It doesn't matter how you do it, conical tyres or camber bolts will achieve the same amount of practical static camber. What matters is that you set the right amount of camber so that you will wear everything evenly. There are exceptions to this rule, but they only exist on the racetrack and eBay. Protip: most daily-driven cars don't need much camber at all. Think about how many miles you have driven at the ragged edge of grip, or even WOT...
Using excessive amounts of negative camber to get a wheel to fit is bloody ridiculous and is practically worse than driving around on space saver tyres.
Even the nastiest superyacht strut suspension will not require much more than about 3.5 degrees of negative camber, ON THE TRACK.
/rant
This all happens simultaneously. So in this diagram, the GC is going to wear the outside edge of the tyre unless it is driven in a straight line forever. For best cornering grip, you'd want to set -2.5 degrees of static camber, or slightly more because the tyre will slop around a bit. BUT: You don't spend all of your time driving in a circle at peak lateral acceleration. So if you set the static negative camber for optimal cornering, you'll wear out the inside edge after one lap or 5k miles.
SO YOU SET THE STATIC CAMBER TO REFLECT THE AMOUNT OF FULL LOAD CORNERING YOU DO.
IF YOU DO THIS, YOU WILL GET A SLIGHT AMOUNT OF POSITIVE CAMBER DURING CORNERING, AND EVEN TYRE WEAR.
It doesn't matter how you do it, conical tyres or camber bolts will achieve the same amount of practical static camber. What matters is that you set the right amount of camber so that you will wear everything evenly. There are exceptions to this rule, but they only exist on the racetrack and eBay. Protip: most daily-driven cars don't need much camber at all. Think about how many miles you have driven at the ragged edge of grip, or even WOT...
Using excessive amounts of negative camber to get a wheel to fit is bloody ridiculous and is practically worse than driving around on space saver tyres.
Even the nastiest superyacht strut suspension will not require much more than about 3.5 degrees of negative camber, ON THE TRACK.
/rant
#24
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the idea behind those camber tires is so you can leave your static camber at -1 degree, then use the camber tires as a way to cheat having to get a alignment every time you roll to the track
the worst part is most people arent messing with camber to get a wheel to fit, they are doing it for the LOOK of negative camber
sorta like the tire stretchers want the look of a wider tire...without having to buy a wider tire
the person above use spacers to push out his stock wheels and tires enough so when they pulled back camber, it wouldnt hit the suspension
the worst part is most people arent messing with camber to get a wheel to fit, they are doing it for the LOOK of negative camber
sorta like the tire stretchers want the look of a wider tire...without having to buy a wider tire
the person above use spacers to push out his stock wheels and tires enough so when they pulled back camber, it wouldnt hit the suspension
#26
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everyone has their "style". wether it be mexi flush, flush, hella flush, or just fat tires. its like saying why get a fatter tire in the rear when all you do is daily commute the car hehe. but i have my car dropped 3-4 inches. i do have issues of camber wear on the front tires but they wear out at about 30k. my rear tires wear evenly and i get about 30k on them as well.
here is a link to my coupe. i dont rub on the fenders. and I do drive my car hard.
Genesis Coupe 2.0T
here is a link to my coupe. i dont rub on the fenders. and I do drive my car hard.
Genesis Coupe 2.0T
#28
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