We have exhaust and intake threads so what about alignment specs thread. Post up what your alignment, rim & tire, and suspension specs so theres an all in one post, along with pics if you have them.

 

Rear Camber: -2.6 to -2.8

Rear Wheel: 19x10.5 +20

Rear Tire: 255/40



Front Camber: -1.0

Front Wheel: 19x9 +20

Front Tire: 225/40



I wish I had slightly more camber in the front. Very happy with the rear.

I'll have to post pics later, or just go here: http://flickr.com/majikbs

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/70462205@N05/6895096197/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/70462205@N05/6895096197/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/70462205@N05/, on Flickr



http://www.flickr.com/photos/70462205@N05/6895096357/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/70462205@N05/6895096357/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/70462205@N05/, on Flickr



VIP Modular VR06 19x9.5 x10.5 +26 with 5mm spacer

225/35 245/35

BC Coilovers 5 threads from lowest setting

-2 degrees camber

 

Here's my latest specs. Next time I'll take a little less camber in the back.



Alignment 06092011 cropped.jpg

 

I've got roughly 1.5 degrees of negative camber on all four corners. It would be awesome if it was intentional and not just the result of 17 year old bushings getting lazy...





Do you guys pick camber for fitment and appearance? Or do you guys set your camber at the track according to the pyrometer?

 

Raspberry - zero out that toe, dude!





Having zero camber wears the outside of the tires. Increasing the negative camber on these cars does give noticeable improvement in handling. If you drive it hard, it'll wear evenly. even -1 camber is within factory specs; I believe the rear come with a little negative camber from the factory. The R-Spec even comes with OEM Camber Bolts to give more adjustability, without them you max out at -1.0

 

found an okay picture

-2.6