Karpov

Gas cap was missing for two years and fuel pump rusted, i was lucky to find one from 1998 2D accent, however not installed for almost 2 months and that one died as well, should have put it in a jar of gas.



Now my options are:

- buy a from dealer around $700

- good aftermarket $100-300

- cheap $20 bucks pump

- used original pump pulled by me from junk yard this will cost about $15-25 bucks, i guess i opt for this one.



Problem is X3 Accents are rare find on pick-ur-part in Los Angeles, however plenty of newer models, will fuel pump from next generation LC 1999-2005 or MC 2005-2011 work on older X3?

JonGTR

Get a new Walbro 190lph kit for $40. Usually comes with the hose, base pad, stainless clamps, and prefilter.

Karpov

Price on the link you posted is $129... i read online that there's plenty of Chinese imitations that look exact same i rather just buy a used original, that has correct part number on it.

JonGTR

I didn't post a link, but here one. Seems legit to me.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-WAL...pVu-I2&vxp=mtr



The 255lph cost more, but you don't want that anyways.

Karpov

Thanks but there's plenty threads about this being mocked by Chinese companies and buying on ebay is not safe pus it cost suspiciously low.



Went to pick ur part today and looked inside Elantra 1999 and Accent 1997 none had fuel pump with part number, does it supposed to be engraved on the metal or printed somewhere, could it be washed off by gasoline?



Somewhat there's were a lot of microscopic grinned metal particles on bottom of the strainer and few on top part of the pump where magnets are on both cars, where does it come from? My guess its from i would assume its from the pump, however if it travels from inside pump towards engine it should be stuck in fuel filter and would not come back trough return line then where it comes from?

Karpov

Can someone explain to me what the heck is wrong in my situation i testing pump with 12V power adapter and it spins no problem, when i put it in the car it does not do anything.



I have bought fuel pump bay from 1998 and its same exact wiring as old one i had that is rusted.



Now when i measure power plug when key is in on position the plug puts out +12v on the wrong wire not on the one that powers pump, here's the diagram.



Instead of putting +12v to motor (yellow wire) it gives +12v on the green wire that goes to some sensor.





Do i have to rewire the motor bay or how i make it work?

Karpov

Never mind previous post - mystery is solved, problem is fuel pump relay socket it only produces 5.6volts on relay control wires upon turning the key on so relay does not click.



EDIT: on second try i measured relay control positive terminal to car ground (body) it supplies proper +12v, however relay control negative (ground) terminal to car ground (body) shows +2v however it only shows +2v when key is in on position not all the times, i think this is important.

Resistance terminal GND to car ground (body) is 520Ohm ignition off and 45Ohm ignition on.



When i measure between positive and negative relay terminals i am getting +5.6 volts.



Now its clear to me that short is somewhere on the ground terminal of fuel pump relay switch, however i still cannot trace where it shorted without wiring diagram.

Stocker

Yet another time to wish hyundaitechinfo were still free I got nothing for an Accent, but for the owner a thumbs up and "keep at it, these are pretty simple cars"

Karpov

Went to junk yard today and torn that poor bastard apart that shorted negative wire goes straight to main computer, perhaps tomorrow i will put a manual switch for a fuel pump instead of relay and see if car starts with current ECU, if not i will change it they still pretty cheap on pick ur part.



I got pdf scan of shop manual for 1995 Accent one and only i could find for this generation, has electrical diagrams as well, however its in Spanish, dunno about this board policy just send PM if you need it.

Karpov

Good news after i put negative relay wire on car body instead of computer fuel pump relay started working and fuel pump makes noise!



However could not start so i was running back and forth for another couple hours trying to get a fuel to flow as it was not starting, ended up taking fuel pump out for one hundred and third time and cursing it however after testing with 9volt battery and quart of gas it was pumping it fine so i went to only idea i had left is that there was not enough gas in the tank.

It turned to be truth because i only put ~2 gallons and it was not enough, because tank was completely empty, added third gallon and it started no problem. Idle is great too.



Guess i going to smog it Monday then change the tires then just run with current computer.