Is there something missing??
10-19-2013, 02:34 PM
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Is there something missing??
I got the timing belt hydraulic tensioner out but the lower bolt was lose. Not surprising since the bolt hole is much larger than the bolt!!
I should clarify - the bolt (say 8mm) is about 3" long, fits the hole in the tensioner and the thread in the block, but the first 1 1/2" of the hole is more like 10mm. So the bolt rattles around until it's tightened down. Further there is no pin or other locating device for the tensioner so it obviously will tend to come lose.
So, what's missing? should there be sleeves on the bolts?
I should clarify - the bolt (say 8mm) is about 3" long, fits the hole in the tensioner and the thread in the block, but the first 1 1/2" of the hole is more like 10mm. So the bolt rattles around until it's tightened down. Further there is no pin or other locating device for the tensioner so it obviously will tend to come lose.
So, what's missing? should there be sleeves on the bolts?
10-19-2013, 08:58 PM
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The idlers have a stepped bolt (IIRC ) but the two holding the hydraulic tensioner should be normal bolts . Which engine do you have ?
10-20-2013, 09:35 AM
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Sorry,
It's a 2.7 V6 here's; a pic, #3 is the tensioner. You can see the 2 long bolts...
#1 is the pulley, you can see that the tensioner controls the rotation of the pulley bracket. I see that in other V6 engines the bolts are either side, at the top, which makes more sense. But it looks like maybe there were sleeves on the bolts so that they fit the holes - nothing like that on this diag though.
It's a 2.7 V6 here's; a pic, #3 is the tensioner. You can see the 2 long bolts...
#1 is the pulley, you can see that the tensioner controls the rotation of the pulley bracket. I see that in other V6 engines the bolts are either side, at the top, which makes more sense. But it looks like maybe there were sleeves on the bolts so that they fit the holes - nothing like that on this diag though.
10-20-2013, 08:19 PM
#4
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If they only used that short a threaded section, that's all it needs. It may also need to be very carefully-tightened to the torque specification to prevent it coming loose. Who last worked in the area? If they failed to observe proper torque spec, that might explain the part coming loose.
Tighten to spec and check after a brief test drive, then check again after a longer drive. If it stays tight you're probably good, maybe check again in a month. If it comes loose again, replace the bolts and I personally would consider using blue loctite.
Tighten to spec and check after a brief test drive, then check again after a longer drive. If it stays tight you're probably good, maybe check again in a month. If it comes loose again, replace the bolts and I personally would consider using blue loctite.
10-20-2013, 11:17 PM
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Someone may have stripped the first few threads out , it looks like both bolts should be the same but I may be wrong . Have you checked at https://www.hyundaitechinfo.com/to see if you can find more info ? Its free to sign up , seems to work better using Internet Explorer.
10-21-2013, 10:28 AM
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Ahh! New bolts! The originals have a stepped shank which fits MUCH better. The lower hole is a little tapered now but I think this will do.
Thanks for your help.
BTW. I found that I had to remove the bolts from the timing rear cover to replace the water pump. It fouls on the water pump and makes it very difficult to remove and impossible to replace. Just remove the bolts and you can shove the cover out of the way enough.
Thanks for your help.
BTW. I found that I had to remove the bolts from the timing rear cover to replace the water pump. It fouls on the water pump and makes it very difficult to remove and impossible to replace. Just remove the bolts and you can shove the cover out of the way enough.
