Intake on KIA
I put an intake on my KIA Sephia 2000 and left the stock rubber arm on there but there is on wire that went to the air intake box but now theres nowhere to put it and the check engine light is on now.
I believe that is the Intake Air Temperature sensor. If it's gotten broken from jostling around the engine bay, or if it's been reading an extremely wrong reading, then it could be causing your engine to run overly lean or rich, and trigger the CEL.
Find a place to put that sensor into the intake air stream. Drill a hole into your intake and fit a grommet to seal the sensor into there, or find a place in one of the intake joints that you can stick the sensor through and still get a good seal on the intake.
Anyone think it might be something else?
Find a place to put that sensor into the intake air stream. Drill a hole into your intake and fit a grommet to seal the sensor into there, or find a place in one of the intake joints that you can stick the sensor through and still get a good seal on the intake.
Anyone think it might be something else?
Hello
I have a Hyundai Accent and I recently bought a cone air filter for it. I put the sensor right next to the filter outside of it. It works it seems.
But I notice that i get different readings on the car temp sensor in the panel. It drops to cold when you accelerate, i guess from the air moving in.
Where does this sensor gets its information from? How does it calculate engine temp?
Another thing is, with the filter i get iddling a little rought at times, its not constant as it used to be with the original air box.
Can someone help?
I have a Hyundai Accent and I recently bought a cone air filter for it. I put the sensor right next to the filter outside of it. It works it seems.
But I notice that i get different readings on the car temp sensor in the panel. It drops to cold when you accelerate, i guess from the air moving in.
Where does this sensor gets its information from? How does it calculate engine temp?
Another thing is, with the filter i get iddling a little rought at times, its not constant as it used to be with the original air box.
Can someone help?
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,795
Likes: 5
From: Pflugerville, TX
Vehicle: 2000 Elantra
Here are a couple of general bits of info...
The intake air temperature sensor is the one that lives in the stock airbox. It tells the computer the temp of the air your car is getting. With a couple of other sensor inputs, your computer can calculate how much gas to give the engine. When the filter is outside the airstream, it will give erroneous (usually hot) readings, reflecting engine bay temperatures instead of intake air temperatures (unless all you have is a filter on your MAFs, in which case it's pretty close to the same temperature). When the IAT is inside the airstream and actually doing its job you will get maximized power and fuel economy. when it is floating free in the engine bay, you will not. If it breaks off, you will not and it may trigger a CEL. If it is not installed securely (as in, if you just put it inside your filter and let the wires hold it), eventually it WILL break off of the wires. Maybe it will take a few dozen thousands of miles, but wires will break when subjected to stress like that. That is why Hyunai put a nice gasket to hold it in place by the body of the sensor. Most aftermarket air filters have at least a little flat plastic you can make a hole in, to mount the sensor. more and more aftermarket intakes also have a hole for the sensor. Once the wires break, the sensor will (if you are lucky) fall into your filter and trigger a CEL, with poor fuel economy and reduced power. If you are not lucky it will go UP the pipe and stick at the MAFs housing. If you have removed the screen from your MAFs housing you may be very very unlucky and the sensor might get stuck in the throttle body causing inability to either fully open or close the throttle (both bad) OR it might make its way all the way to an intake runner and if you are EXTREMELY unlucky, it might get as far as the back of a valve, where it would almost surely melt and turn to goo, hopefully not catching fire to the engine, and hopefully not breaking your valve's head off.
Long story short, the diagnosis, and replacment of the filter, as well as any repairs called for, would NOT by covered by your factory warranty, all because you didn't take 3 minutes to mount the sensor properly. look for $50-80 to read the code, plus at least an hour labor ($60+) and then parts cost.
mount it right fellas.
(edit) oops forgot the second part!
adding performance accessories and parts generally means at least slightly decreased driveability. a filter may cause a slightly rougher idle, with increased throttle response. a CAI will definately increase power and throttle response, but you may see the revs dip to 500 before stabilising as you come to a stop. Headers make noise, so does and intake and exhaust. Throttle bodies increase fuel consumption. cams make the idle rougher. turbos and superchargers have their own sets of problems. Unless you see MAJOR driveability symptoms after adding a performance part, generally, I would advise anyone not to worry about it.
[ April 20, 2002, 12:19 PM: Message edited by: Stocker ]
The intake air temperature sensor is the one that lives in the stock airbox. It tells the computer the temp of the air your car is getting. With a couple of other sensor inputs, your computer can calculate how much gas to give the engine. When the filter is outside the airstream, it will give erroneous (usually hot) readings, reflecting engine bay temperatures instead of intake air temperatures (unless all you have is a filter on your MAFs, in which case it's pretty close to the same temperature). When the IAT is inside the airstream and actually doing its job you will get maximized power and fuel economy. when it is floating free in the engine bay, you will not. If it breaks off, you will not and it may trigger a CEL. If it is not installed securely (as in, if you just put it inside your filter and let the wires hold it), eventually it WILL break off of the wires. Maybe it will take a few dozen thousands of miles, but wires will break when subjected to stress like that. That is why Hyunai put a nice gasket to hold it in place by the body of the sensor. Most aftermarket air filters have at least a little flat plastic you can make a hole in, to mount the sensor. more and more aftermarket intakes also have a hole for the sensor. Once the wires break, the sensor will (if you are lucky) fall into your filter and trigger a CEL, with poor fuel economy and reduced power. If you are not lucky it will go UP the pipe and stick at the MAFs housing. If you have removed the screen from your MAFs housing you may be very very unlucky and the sensor might get stuck in the throttle body causing inability to either fully open or close the throttle (both bad) OR it might make its way all the way to an intake runner and if you are EXTREMELY unlucky, it might get as far as the back of a valve, where it would almost surely melt and turn to goo, hopefully not catching fire to the engine, and hopefully not breaking your valve's head off.
Long story short, the diagnosis, and replacment of the filter, as well as any repairs called for, would NOT by covered by your factory warranty, all because you didn't take 3 minutes to mount the sensor properly. look for $50-80 to read the code, plus at least an hour labor ($60+) and then parts cost.
mount it right fellas.
(edit) oops forgot the second part!
adding performance accessories and parts generally means at least slightly decreased driveability. a filter may cause a slightly rougher idle, with increased throttle response. a CAI will definately increase power and throttle response, but you may see the revs dip to 500 before stabilising as you come to a stop. Headers make noise, so does and intake and exhaust. Throttle bodies increase fuel consumption. cams make the idle rougher. turbos and superchargers have their own sets of problems. Unless you see MAJOR driveability symptoms after adding a performance part, generally, I would advise anyone not to worry about it.
[ April 20, 2002, 12:19 PM: Message edited by: Stocker ]
That was really informative.
Thanks for taking your time to clear this out.
I have the sensor mounted now inside the filter in the meantime. Since the hole that has to be done is kind of big I still have to figure out a way to do it without damaging the filter.
The temp readings are now stable and the iddling improved as well. It still goes a little rought but its mostly me cuz i like things to go smooth. It does a little tumbling every 5 seconds or so while iddling with the gear on.
Nothing bad. And it works so I guess i better get used to it.
Thanks for the info.
Thanks for taking your time to clear this out.
I have the sensor mounted now inside the filter in the meantime. Since the hole that has to be done is kind of big I still have to figure out a way to do it without damaging the filter.
The temp readings are now stable and the iddling improved as well. It still goes a little rought but its mostly me cuz i like things to go smooth. It does a little tumbling every 5 seconds or so while iddling with the gear on.
Nothing bad. And it works so I guess i better get used to it.
Thanks for the info.


