Help removing rotor
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Joined: Aug 2001
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Help removing rotor
I have a 2001 tiburon and i purchased sharkracings drilled and slotted rotors and pads. I am trying to get my rotor to come off and it wont....i removed the caliper and dont see any bolts holding the rotor on....does it just slide onto the hub? is it just frozen with rust? do my new rotors need to be turned before they are used ? please any help will be great and the sooner the better since my car is now torn apart. thanks
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
The rotor is held to the hub with the 2 screws. If you remove those 2 screws, it will come right off.
The rotor sometimes get's "rusted" onto the hub, in which case, a couple of "rapps" with a hammer on the center part of the rotor will break the bond with the rust and allow you to pull it off. It is a tight, close fit. you will have to pull with your hands at 3 and 9 o'clock, then pull with your hands at 12 and 6 o'clock, and keep working it back and forth till it comes off.
[ May 10, 2003, 12:29 PM: Message edited by: Random ]
The rotor sometimes get's "rusted" onto the hub, in which case, a couple of "rapps" with a hammer on the center part of the rotor will break the bond with the rust and allow you to pull it off. It is a tight, close fit. you will have to pull with your hands at 3 and 9 o'clock, then pull with your hands at 12 and 6 o'clock, and keep working it back and forth till it comes off.
[ May 10, 2003, 12:29 PM: Message edited by: Random ]
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Joined: May 2002
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From: tampa, FL
Vehicle: 2000 Tiburon
yea dont listen to random the california sun is making him think its easy to take rotors off a tib thats had it rotors on for 30000 miles. lol
i did my rotors at 45000 miles and let me tell you it was the worst experience ever, ive done drums and rotors on a 67 ford galaxie that were easier than the tib.
My rotors were so badly rusted on the inside edge of the rotor that I had to use a gear puller and a 10 pound mallet.
the first rotor never just came off, it literally broke in half, and when that happened it the gear puller dropped almost hitting my knee, so when i inspected the rotor, there was easily a 1/16th of an inch of rust, and break dust and road grime sealing the rotor on to the spindle.
well i got the rotors off and then i used a wire brush a cleaned up all the parts that had rust on them, and then i put the new ones on.
One thing, DO NOT USE A GEAR PULLER
After about a week of driving with the new rotors on, i was hearing a popping sound when i would stop, the first time i heard that sound i knew i had ****d up the axle somehow, the C/V boot had split and all the grease was all over the brake caliper and inside of the rim, it was a mess.
Well i took it to the dealer and they had to replace the whole axle because all the pressure from the gear puller had "mushroomed-out" the threads on the end of the axle, and the nut that goes on the end, you couldnt get it back on.
You are going to have to beat the ever living **** out of the inside of the rotor to either break the rust up, or break the rotor in half. Ill take some pics of the rotors, I kept them because Ive never seen a rotor split in two b4.
Oh yea, like Random said, you need to take off the 2 screws that hold the rotor on, they are there for assembly line purposes, and you dont need to put them back on, oh yea which reminds me, I also split the heads off two of the 4 screws and had to drill them out.
http://www.geocities.com/capo7878/brokenrotors.html ]a cheesy page i made to show off the rotors[/URL]
http://www.geocities.com/capo7878/brokenrotors2.html [/URL]
ok im done, man that was long, hope it helps man.
I need a beer now
[ May 10, 2003, 05:20 PM: Message edited by: Loneshark ]
i did my rotors at 45000 miles and let me tell you it was the worst experience ever, ive done drums and rotors on a 67 ford galaxie that were easier than the tib.
My rotors were so badly rusted on the inside edge of the rotor that I had to use a gear puller and a 10 pound mallet.
QUOTE
Man you guys have it easy in CA. We have cars come in with the rotors so badly rusted to the hub that the rotor breaks before it will seperate from the hub. The latest one was a 01 Tiburon.
I hit the rotor from the inside edge, out, like 1000 times, literally for an hour and a half on the first one, and about an hour on the other side,the first rotor never just came off, it literally broke in half, and when that happened it the gear puller dropped almost hitting my knee, so when i inspected the rotor, there was easily a 1/16th of an inch of rust, and break dust and road grime sealing the rotor on to the spindle.
well i got the rotors off and then i used a wire brush a cleaned up all the parts that had rust on them, and then i put the new ones on.
One thing, DO NOT USE A GEAR PULLER
After about a week of driving with the new rotors on, i was hearing a popping sound when i would stop, the first time i heard that sound i knew i had ****d up the axle somehow, the C/V boot had split and all the grease was all over the brake caliper and inside of the rim, it was a mess.
Well i took it to the dealer and they had to replace the whole axle because all the pressure from the gear puller had "mushroomed-out" the threads on the end of the axle, and the nut that goes on the end, you couldnt get it back on.
You are going to have to beat the ever living **** out of the inside of the rotor to either break the rust up, or break the rotor in half. Ill take some pics of the rotors, I kept them because Ive never seen a rotor split in two b4.
Oh yea, like Random said, you need to take off the 2 screws that hold the rotor on, they are there for assembly line purposes, and you dont need to put them back on, oh yea which reminds me, I also split the heads off two of the 4 screws and had to drill them out.
http://www.geocities.com/capo7878/brokenrotors.html ]a cheesy page i made to show off the rotors[/URL]
http://www.geocities.com/capo7878/brokenrotors2.html [/URL]
ok im done, man that was long, hope it helps man.
I need a beer now
[ May 10, 2003, 05:20 PM: Message edited by: Loneshark ]
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From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
damn. I've NEVER had that much problem getting a rotor off. If it didnt' come off with the pull, or with the hammer trick, some penetrating lubricant sprayed around the joint between the rotor and the hub took care of it.
Uh...do either one of you guys use wd-40 or penetrating lube? Do you guys apply anti-sieze on the rotor before installing it?
Removing the rust from the rotor and the hub is a MUST!!! I also HIGHLY suggest using the anti-sieze on the hub and inner part of the rotor to prevent future problems.
Uh...do either one of you guys use wd-40 or penetrating lube? Do you guys apply anti-sieze on the rotor before installing it?
Removing the rust from the rotor and the hub is a MUST!!! I also HIGHLY suggest using the anti-sieze on the hub and inner part of the rotor to prevent future problems.
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: USA
Vehicle: 1997 RD 4-door
rust belts usually form inside to rotor, making it a pita to take off,
get a hammer and smack the rotor from the edge back and forth, spray some wd-40 and let it premeat the rust first
get a hammer and smack the rotor from the edge back and forth, spray some wd-40 and let it premeat the rust first
