I have lighter rods and soon pistons now for my engine rebuilt project and a lighter flywheel. I was wondering if anyone knew where I could get a lighter stronger crank or do I need not to worry about the crank.
Second where can one get more durable bearing? Or do I not need to worry about that too. Im making an all motor 2.0 Tibby that will atleast have a 75 shot of Nos in the future.

Any help finding parts or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.............

 

First, how do you currently have a 2.2 liter displacement now?

Second: lighter pistons? Maybe. Lighter rods? doubtful. Lighter crank? Nope.

Third: The absolute best 2.0L BETA engines in Korea are making 190 wheel horsepower. These engines are running 12+ static compression, don't even RUN below 1500RPM's because of the horribly lumpy cams, use individual throttlebodies, have cylinder heads that are ported to gargantuan size and have the exhaust coolant veins welded shut, 4-1 open headers that dump at behind the front tire and fully standalone engine management.

So for what is essentially a $10,000+ project motor, you would have 190 wheel horsepower that could never be driven more than about two miles at a time (cylinder head coolant veins welded shut) and basically is 100% non-streetable and non-registerable as a standard passenger car.

For 190 wheel horsepower, I'd slap $2000 in turbo parts on it and leave it alone.

 

RPW will sell you a crank with the counterweights shaved off. It's a hell of a lot lighter...but I wouldn't reccomend it for anything other than drag racing/road racing where you will tear it down after every run.

 

Suppose you are correct. Duh me. I'm not on my best game today eh? wink

 

The crank should be good for quite a bit of hp. As far as i know alot of people here are running 200+hp with stock crank. Just with pistons rings and rods. So with full n/a overbored and nitrous, you should be fine. Just remember your fuel pump smile.gif btw i got one to sell if your interested

 

Yeah, when I poped my head in the only thread I assume you were writing this one.

2.2L motor? Explain were ya picked that up.

Care to explain a turbulance REMAPPED Ecu? Those are incompatiable.

Perhaps you could change the parameters of the turbulance maps to the odb2 chip. But I know the odb1 and odb2 is a totaly different CHIP, so you could not just download that program into your ecu.

But yeah, you are shooting down to different roads.

We also need to know about your 2.2L motor you might have just kicked yourself out of the F/I market with it.

 

Ok guys dont get deffensive. I am not a car guru, im learning more everyday. So......thats why Im asking for help......so help. I would guess to 0.020 overbore the engine and use a 1.8 crank wouldnt that make it a 2.2 liter....if not I'll change the sig.

Second what rods should I be using and will the bearing hold up to a 75shot.

Here is the list:
1.Kore lightened Rods(are they lighter and stronger)
2.I guess Pistons from RPW or Ross
3.Kore lightened Flywheel
4.1.8 cam
5.Portand Polished Head
6.Port and Polished Intake Manifold &BBThrottle Body
7.Block bored to 0.020 over
8.1.8 Hyundai Crank
9.OBX Fuel Rail with Nitrous port
10. Already have the upgraded fuel pump
and last
11. ECU ---modified to give a little bit more fuel and to eliminate the governing system in my car.

So tell me what Im doing wrong or should do next

 

i can tell you what you're doing wrong: you're going n/a on a beta!!! dude, i thought about it, too. i actually thought about what if i could get some wicked compression (like 15:1) and turn around 17,000 rpms like f1 cars and have the volumetric efficieny to use it all? well, it's not gonna happen in a streetable car, and for the amount of money i'll spend on it, i should just buy a freaking used ferrari. at least i'd get the pretty stallion marque and a ferrari out of it. get a turbo. the beta is a turbo engine. red, random, shadohh, and jaws are the best ones to ask, but from what i've learned, the beta needs a turbo.

 

No, a 1.8 with a .20 overbore would be 1/2 a mm
So it would make the engine a 1.85L

For a 2.2L you would need ovebore to .40 for .1L then stoke it out another .1L.

Am I right Random and Red? I feel I got somethign wrong in my explanation.

The PAUTER E- 4340 chrome-moly forged rod That KORE sells are forged. They are stronger for high BOOSTING applications. THey would not be lighter.
Well, as in light enough to make a difference to the rotational mass.

KORE sells the Fidanza flywhele for the tiburon, and I have seen it cheaper other places. so look elsewere to get it cheaper.

Since you mentioned earlier you had a 1.8L Why are you listed you need to get a 1.8L crank?

Port and Polishing has not shown much gain to the BETA heads. NOt really worth it. For Boosting.

I would not run N20 and Boost at the same time unless you really beefed up your engine. One of the Other. N20 would be considered a N/A addon.

11. ECU ---modified to give a little bit more fuel and to eliminate the governing system in my car.

How? Is that what you ment earlier by turbulance remapped ECU? Cause that would not be it.

Cranks Bearings will hold up to 75shot of NOS easy. I am sure the bearings are good for 300+hp

Red or Random would have a better idea how much they can take.

 

Well the guy at the dealership I got the remapp done at said it was a turbulence remapped uploaded to the computer.

Another thing is I have a 2.0 block and I wanted to know hive the 1.8 crankshaft would be better to use for all N/A motor.

I wanted help trying to make my 2.0 faster oh ya and you said i could get a better deal on the flywheel somewhere else....please tell me where cause i am gonna order all these parts within a week. Thats why I need the Do's and Dont's before I put it together.

RANDOM, RED, JAWS, SHADOW anyone with experience here?