Check it out, I found my old soundclips from when I originally put the exhaust on:

Accel.mp3 - 334kb
Idlerev.mp3 - 506kb

The accel file is a 0-90mph run from inside the car. Most of that noise is the intake...

The idlerev file is my laptop sitting outside on the pavement, about 2 feet away from the exhaust tip. As you can tell, most of the noise here is the engine. Don't mind the rattle in the "romp", that's a loose exhaust hangar wink

 

so if I get this "4-fogger direct-port kit" how much boost would my stock intervals be able to take? I'm up for a sleeper as well....

~Drew

 

"Boost" is positive intake manifold pressure, measured in pounds of pressure per square inch -- or PSI. This is when you force air into a space where it doesn't want to go, via some method of forced induction: supercharger or turbocharger.

Nitrous has nothing to do with boost.

The "safe" limit entirely depends on how well you install and tune the system. If you just stab in a 40HP single dry nitrous nozzle into your intake and run it, the engine will be destroyed likely the first time you hit the switch.

If you are meticulous in planning, install and tune, these engines will put up with a direct-port progressively-applied 150HP shot on stock parts. The reason you cannot get another 150HP out of the stock engine when using "boost" is because of the significant heat differences.

Nitrous oxide is a gas, not just a company name. When compressed at 900+psi and then allowed to vent into your intake, it turns VERY cold. Turbochargers and superchargers put a lot of HEAT into the engine, which serves to make detonation worse, melt ring lands, et al. Nitrous doesn't involve all this heat, so more power can be extracted on stock internals before breaking things.

That isn't to say you can run a 150HP shot day-in, day-out for the entire life of your car. Asking for a 100% increase in power output from a stock engine will obviously detract from it's expectec lifespan. But it shouldn't DESTROY a motor, just make it wear out faster. Nothing that a turbo or supercharger kit wouldn't do...

 

2.5" piping, really? I was under the impression that 2.25 was the bigges that could go on a Tiburon. Not sure why I was under that impression, but I thought I read somewhere that over 2.25" is too much, then you're losing power.. this true or not?
So when you say 2.5" pipes, basically, you just went to an exhaust shop (or I would, not sure if you did, but bear with me) and asked them for a custom exhaust, told them
"Here, I have the headers, I have this freeflow cat, and this muffler. I want you to make me a custom exhaust w/ 2.5" piping, and put this 24" perf. core glasspack in it"? That the basic jist? Thanks again!

 

so if I get this kit... I can install 4, 30 hp into each... making it, 120hp?

~Drew

 

For a total sleeper... use two engines, just like Michael McIntyre!

 

There were a few more intermediate steps wink but you have the idea. I don't know how much "low end" I may have lost, but I wasn't missing it. Just like Random had mentioned earlier, most of your percieved loss on the bottom is actually a much larger top-end that fools you. If you're running the two liter engine and using a header, then 2.5" is arguably the way to go... Especially with any other complimentary modifications.

As for the nitrous shot, yes... 30HP x 4 = 120HP. The nozzles don't get much smaller than that, so you're approaching the smallest shot available on a direct-port setup.

 

Hey Red.. I PMed you about some stuff specific to your exhaust setup. Aside from that though, with the $1300 setup that you "broke down" for us, I assume that those parts are the necessities only. What else could we benefit from, without killing ourselves? Are the benefits of a purge kit worth the money? Is that even still applicable in a direct port environment?

Say I were to have a bone stock 2k tibby, and I add the setup that you mentioned. Taking into account that the car was properly driven at sea level, yadda yadda, what kind of times might one be able to pull?

 

$1300 is about all you'll need, give or take. You could go pick up a purge kit if you like for another $100 or whatnot... And maybe a remote bottle opener, etc. Also some of that could be less expensive if you pick it up elsewhere -- the MSD unit can be cheaper if you grab one from the Parts Trader website.

And honestly, I don't know what a Tiburon would run with that kind of power. I'm sure you'd be able to get easily into the 13's if you can drive halfway decently smile.gif One thing to remember though, you can't launch on the button or you'll destroy the stock diff. Gotta wait until you're already moving before you start spraying.

 

Please excuse the directing of this post toward Red, but he apparently hates PMs or something? hehe

Hey Red,

Do you have anymore specifics on your exhaust? I really like the tones that you're putting out. I'm used to having muscle cars, a nova and a camaro... so I'm not exactly used to driving a weedwhacker. By the time I get my exhaust done, I will have BIM/BTB and a CAI. That's probably all. I'm not sure what I plan in the future, but I don't think I'll have the cash for boosting. I really like the idea of direct-port so who knows.

Based on that info, should I get a 2.25" mandrel bent exhaust? or do you think I would actually be ok with the 2.5"? I mean you are modding the hell outta your car, whereas I'm just spreading my little money the best way that I can. What do you think I would be able to run with a moderate direct-port setup? It's a daily driver, so I don't want it to have nitrous-blood if you know what I mean. I wanna be able to goto the track and surprise the hell outta people though. In order to accomodate the nitrous, what would I HAVE to upgrade?

The "Killer" fuel pump you speak of, could that be subbed with a Walbro 255 lph DSM pump as I've heard a few people on here doing that?