Creating a Sleeper-Help?
05-10-2002, 04:56 AM
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Creating a Sleeper-Help?
Okay, so I have decided that I want to make my car more of a sleeper and go for performance. (Staying N/A though. Don't have enough cash to deal with tuning a turbo).. So my basic question is, what parts should I do that will keep the sleeper effect? As in like, when I'm sitting at the light on the track, I don't want the poor lil Honda next to me to know I have anything done. I'm getting a BTB/BIM, then the Elantra GT Intake Cam, but what after that to keep the sleeper? I was thinking exhaust and headers, but those are both pretty loud.. anyone know of a nice quieter exhaust system? Thanks all.
05-10-2002, 05:42 AM
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there are many ways that you can keep the sound down in a free flow exhaust. The normal recomandation is to use an 18 inch perforated core glasspack. Nitrous is the most stealth you can get. Visit Brendan's sight for the most info on installing laughing gas. You will also want the larger throttle body and the matched intake manifold. Pulley sets will be comming soon and that will help. There are improvements to be made on the Beta's head but you will want to be carefull on who does this work. Good tires so that you can lauch well. Keep your car light as you can.
05-10-2002, 05:47 AM
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QUOTE
ruben-z's 2K1:
no one will know whether or not you have a ZEX kit!!! eek!
Agreed. With just bolt-on stuff you can get a 55-shot into one of these cars VERY easily. If you want to get a bit more involved with a fuel pump and a single fogger kit, you can ramp upto 75-shot without issue.no one will know whether or not you have a ZEX kit!!! eek!
And if you wanted to get truly crazy, for about $1300 parts + install (give or take) you can bolt on a 4-fogger direct-port kit and spray 100-150HP into the stock engine. These engines take very well to nitrous, even on stock internals. The crazies in Puerto Rico have run 150+ horsepower direct-port systems for years now without problems on stock engines.
That $1300 breaks down effectively as-follows:
$650 for the direct-port kit
$200 for a progressive controller
$100 for a killer fuel pump
$350 for an MSD DIS2 unit, with optional window switch and nitrous ignition retard module
Nobody would ever expect your car to warehouse 300 flywheel horsepower, would they? wink
05-10-2002, 06:19 AM
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http://www.nitrousexpress.com/sportcom_dirport.htm
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Prod...NOS/NOSzle.html
For some reason whenever I see direct port setups it reminds me of an interview with Metallica talking about mainlining whiskey backstage....
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Prod...NOS/NOSzle.html
For some reason whenever I see direct port setups it reminds me of an interview with Metallica talking about mainlining whiskey backstage....
05-10-2002, 07:19 AM
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More specifically:
A "dry" kit is a single nozzle that sprays nitrous oxide into the intake, usually placed about six inches away from the throttlebody (right after the stock MAF in Tiburons/Elantras). Your car's stock injectors are required to add the additional fuel, which is why a dry shot usually can't do much more (safely) than about 55HP worth.
A "wet" kit is a single fogger nozzle, in which both nitrous and gasoline are "fogged" into the intake tract, usually placed around the same position as a dry nozzle. Since fuel is added with the nitrous, you can more easily extract power from it. However, since an MPFI manifold is ONLY designed to flow air and not fluid, you get certain aerodynamic / fluid dynamic issues when spraying fuel down the manifold. Safest bet on these cars is no more than 75HP on a single-fogger wet kit because of fuel puddling / deatomization / inconsistant mixture issues that are inherent in flowing fuel down an MPFI manifold.
A "direct port" system uses a single wet fogger nozzle on EACH intake runner. This way you get around the inherent problems with MPFI manifold flow dynamics, and you also get a VERY precise amount of nitrous and fuel per cylinder because each one has it's own nozzle. This is why a direct-port system is able to sustain much higher performance numbers: one, because it's more stable and precise in the delivery... two because you have one nozzle per cylinder. Whereas you cannot buy a single 400HP nozzle, you CAN buy four individual 100HP nozzles.
I have become a large fan of nitrous use in the last eight to twelve months, mostly because it has no different drawbacks from any other method of forced induction AND is cheaper to build and install. Of course, considering the TCO (total cost of ownership) over the course of three years, the constant refilling of nitrous bottles can eventually make a nitrous kit more expensive than a turbo kit of equal power. However, that cost is spread over years instead of being within three months wink so it's easier to financially handle.
The motor I have built will be using a direct-port nitrous kit of no less than 150HP, in conjunction with the turbo system.
A "dry" kit is a single nozzle that sprays nitrous oxide into the intake, usually placed about six inches away from the throttlebody (right after the stock MAF in Tiburons/Elantras). Your car's stock injectors are required to add the additional fuel, which is why a dry shot usually can't do much more (safely) than about 55HP worth.
A "wet" kit is a single fogger nozzle, in which both nitrous and gasoline are "fogged" into the intake tract, usually placed around the same position as a dry nozzle. Since fuel is added with the nitrous, you can more easily extract power from it. However, since an MPFI manifold is ONLY designed to flow air and not fluid, you get certain aerodynamic / fluid dynamic issues when spraying fuel down the manifold. Safest bet on these cars is no more than 75HP on a single-fogger wet kit because of fuel puddling / deatomization / inconsistant mixture issues that are inherent in flowing fuel down an MPFI manifold.
A "direct port" system uses a single wet fogger nozzle on EACH intake runner. This way you get around the inherent problems with MPFI manifold flow dynamics, and you also get a VERY precise amount of nitrous and fuel per cylinder because each one has it's own nozzle. This is why a direct-port system is able to sustain much higher performance numbers: one, because it's more stable and precise in the delivery... two because you have one nozzle per cylinder. Whereas you cannot buy a single 400HP nozzle, you CAN buy four individual 100HP nozzles.
I have become a large fan of nitrous use in the last eight to twelve months, mostly because it has no different drawbacks from any other method of forced induction AND is cheaper to build and install. Of course, considering the TCO (total cost of ownership) over the course of three years, the constant refilling of nitrous bottles can eventually make a nitrous kit more expensive than a turbo kit of equal power. However, that cost is spread over years instead of being within three months wink so it's easier to financially handle.
The motor I have built will be using a direct-port nitrous kit of no less than 150HP, in conjunction with the turbo system.
05-10-2002, 07:59 AM
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When spraying into the IM with a wet kit fogger system, you will not evenly distrube the NOS+fuel mixture. Due to deatominization and the concentration of the mixture, cylinders 4-3 will get a better shot then cylinders 2-1. Just a quick point... I like the pict of that 4 injector system in the links above, thats a nice setup...
-Steve
-Steve
05-10-2002, 08:03 AM
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Damn Red, 150HP nozzles on each cylinder? Wowza.. Ya might as well put NOS in the gas tank! smile.gif Okay... more directly though as for right now, at least, I want to stay away from NOS. That is something I was thinking about doing further down the line. For right now I just wanna do some bolt on mods that will shave some times off. But my big question is the headers/exhaust combo. Aren't those really loud? I was hoping to have a nice quiet exhaust, at least at idle and rev.. once I drop the clutch and hit the gas, I don't care how loud it is. That's what I like about my RS CAI, there is no change in sound when I'm idling, or when I just rev the engine, but when I floor it it's a totally different sound. So basically I think my question is; headers/exhaust good idea anyways? If so, what brands would be a good combo for performance/low sound? Thanks again!
05-10-2002, 08:44 AM
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On a direct-port system, the "shot" number is the TOTAL number. So in my case, there will be four 38HP nozzles = 152HP total system output.
As for headers and exhaust, I fully agree with you.
On the N/A motor buildup, I have an HVE 4-1 header with 2.5" outlet, 2.5" pipes, a free-flow dynomax catalyst, a 24" long generic perforated-core glasspack and a normal-looking unpolished 2-chamber muffler with a 2.5" tip.
From the outside, the tip and muffler look like it could be stock. The exhaust tone at idle and at low RPM's or low throttle opening sounds almost like stock; a bit more volume, a LOT lower tone, but absolutely nothing obvious. Even while putting your foot into it, the cold air intake eventually makes more noise than the exhaust does.
As for headers and exhaust, I fully agree with you.
On the N/A motor buildup, I have an HVE 4-1 header with 2.5" outlet, 2.5" pipes, a free-flow dynomax catalyst, a 24" long generic perforated-core glasspack and a normal-looking unpolished 2-chamber muffler with a 2.5" tip.
From the outside, the tip and muffler look like it could be stock. The exhaust tone at idle and at low RPM's or low throttle opening sounds almost like stock; a bit more volume, a LOT lower tone, but absolutely nothing obvious. Even while putting your foot into it, the cold air intake eventually makes more noise than the exhaust does.