2000J25SP

2001+ Elantra and 03+ Tiburon transmission. It will work with all of your stock mounts, shifter and stuff swapped over. Read my diy.

I drove mine for a few weeks like this. But it doesn't feel great. The linkage on top of the transmission is at a slightly different angle, puts the cable onto a slight bind. So if you decide you want a XD/GK trans, I recommend getting the cables, shifter, and the linkage that bolts to the top of the transmission.

J2/RD have single cone synchros. 2001-2003 has dual cone. 2004+ have triple cone synchros.

Stocker

That's what I'd been trying not to think since it started making noise. One way to find out.





This is exactly the information I wanted, thanks. I've been looking through the old transmission-related threads and it looks like the gears I actually want are from my car's same model year- but almost any year transmission BUT the one I'm using will get me better fuel economy in top gear (using a 1998). I don't race this thing, I just drive it hard on my daily commute. If anything, taller gears will make the ride more pleasant for my passengers who tend to look at me like

Stocker

This was clear pink transmission gear oil 2 weeks ago







I got tired of wrestling engines when removing transaxles, so I've bodged up a holding fixture with a little uppy-downy capacity:







It looks pretty nasty, but it's solid. There's a screw into the radiator support to hold the front from moving around and the back is pretty well wedged in place. With weight on it, it should be fine. I had a scare when I was building this and the rail flipped and smacked the windshield but thanks God the glass didn't break.

i8acobra

You know, you can get an actual engine sling at Harbor Freight for under $100.

Stocker

Money's so tight I have pre-used washers in this. If anybody finds McFly, tell him to go back about 15 years and slap my wife for me, tell her not to rack up so much credit card debt.

Stocker

Update: The damned hurricane gave me hypothermia. Couldn't get a transaxle pulled from the junkyard because I couldn't think clearly. The rain was bad enough, but it actually got COLDER the longer I was there.



They have a 2000 Tiburon with 75k original miles and I would have loved to grab that transmission, but (typically) the front sheet metal was wrapped around it.

Stocker

187sks

Hope you get it taken care of without any further hypothermia.

Stocker

Thanks, me too. I've scheduled off Wednesday from work. We'll see, I guess.

Stocker

I got the transaxle, shifter, and cables from a 2002 Elantra GT. The shifter looks and feels *very* much better than the RD's shifter that's for certain. BUT I want to see how it goes with swapping JUST the small, removable bracket where the shift cables clamp in by the shifter arms on top of the transmission. There are some (relatively) major dimensional differences in these brackets. Measuring from the pins where the shift cables ends go, to the bolts and other spots they have in common on the transmission, it looks *very very* close - like 1-2mm close - to saying for sure without installing the transmission, that the RD shifter and cables can be reused without problem. Using the later model-year bracket to hold the shift cables would put it a couple of centimeters out of alignment with the way the RD bracket goes, and some of the gear shifts are only 1-2cm apart so that's huge.



I got new axle oil seals from the local dealer and installed them. I swapped over the speedometer gear. I transferred the brackets, including filing a little off the lower rear roll stop mounting area like 2000J25SP said I'd need to do. I need to double-check everything, get the throwout bearing free, and then I'll be ready to slap this thing in my car. I am hoping and praying it works. I think it will.



The input shaft on my failing transmission, can be wobbled maybe a few thousandths of an inch of radial play. Plus a good few millimeters of axial play. The "new" unit has no appreciable input shaft play. The old one, going back and forth with the rotation of the input shaft goes clunk clunk and it feels loose inside. The new one, goes click click and feels tight. The shift levers on top feel like there's a LOT of slack in the old gearbox. The new one feels tight. Plus when the oil ran out of the new gearbox on my garage floor, it was yellow and clear, with no metal flakes, vs. gray and full of sparkles.



At the junkyard, I had to destroy one of the axles in the donor car to get the engine free because the axle wouldn't pop out of the differential. I separated the drivers inside CV joint by pulling and just cut the boot. I stomped on the brake rotor until the CV axle came apart (the axle was still bolted to the spindle), then it was loose. When I went and got the hoist, it was sitting by another car where they'd done the same thing. Apparently I'm the odd man at the yard, because I actually tried to NOT cut the engine harness and sensor cables where I could. I pulled the engine and tranny together, out the top using a hoist, and separated them on my rolling cart. The shifter was also straightforward. But the shifter cables are impossible. To get at the driver's side nut holding the shift cables to the car, I took apart the entire dash, and then demolished the seems-impossible-to-remove main air handling box with a hammer. First world problems I know, but getting those shift cables took as long as getting the transmission!



Hopefully this all made sense because I'm WAY tired and the proofreading part of my brain is on strike