Car alarm..
 

Ok, so we got my car back together finally..but, we cant find out if it works or not.

When we got it, it had an alarm on it. We didnt know this until we lost capabilities to get ahold of the seller. So, needless to say..we have no idea what brand it is..

Well, last time we unhooked my battery it wasn't a big deal, because I found the alarm keychain switch in my console, but now..about a year later..I have no idea where this switch dissapeared to. and after searching for a good hour underneath my dash, around the ecu, we have yet to find a kill switch..I did find one thing though, it's a little black thing, has a connector and then what it's connected to runs to the ecu, it's also zip-tied up, and you can see a couple places the wire was spliced cause they have those little tube wire connectors. It was too dark to take a picture, but it says "TYCO" and "12V" and has a couple different number sets on it, but i didnt think to get these written down.


Can anyone help me? I think it's a viper alarm, my cousin has one, and they had the same horn, and sounded the same when we had them hooked up. we found the kill switch on his, but cant find it anywhere on mine..

Also, there's a black wire..a tiny wire..running from my left hazard light to nothing..we wired it up to the positive terminal, and then they wouldnt go off until we unwired it..any ideas?

Thanks

What I would do in your situation is take it to a GOOD stereo/alarm installer and have them sort it out. Probably get a new alarm installed with the features you want.

Yea, That's probably what we'll do..but, that means we have to load it on a trailor, take it down there, unload it and push it in, then rinse and repeat..which is not an appealing idea as it is a nightmare getting that car on a trailor, even with the bumper off

Ah, I missed that it wouldn't even start at this point, sorry.

You'll have to look for wires that were cut and redirected through the alarm. Running a jumper wire between those should get you going.

Do you have any idea where those wires would be? my cousins alarm has a blue striped and green striped wires running to his kill switch, but i dont see any striped wires or anything of the sort around my ecu.

update:

Found somethin while lookiing online

We found somethin called a "shock sensor" but we figured it was part of a sub system because there had been one but it was removed before i got the car. I was looking at alarm systems, and came a cross onebrand called "crimstopper" and it uses a shock sensor, do all alarms use one of these? and could it be traced back to where the alarm plugs in?

Most alarms have a shock sensor, but a lot of the time it's built into the alarm control box.

I think you're looking for the valet switch, most alarms have them but some don't. If you've already tripped the alarm hitting the valet switch is unlikely to allow you to drive the car.

I am not sure where to look. What does the car do when you try to start it? You can track down why the car won't start and find the solution that way.

It just clicks, we know the engine will crank, because i did it manually without anythinhg on it.

Ive had this problem with an alarm before, but i had the switch for it..it's doing the same thing as then, but i dont have the switch.

Would I be able to use the shock sensor, and the TYCO relay to follow the wires to the ecu where the alarm is plugged in?

We also think its probably partly cause the battery, because it was basically bone dry (completely dead) once we finished..becuase it's been sitting for about 7 months.

It depends on where the clicking is coming from whether that's dead battery or possibly the alarm's starter disable. I would hook up a jump box or a set of jumper cables and see if it turns over.

The wiring for the starter disable generally taps into the bundle of wires within several inches of the ignition switch. There would be a relay and some wires running back to the alarm box. You could disconnect the relay and solder the wire back together to eliminate the starter disable.

Did you change the crank sensor? I know you got a beta 2 now and that's needs to be changed. Bad crank sensor=no start

Yea, we changed every sensor over, including coil packs

And we tried starting it with my dad's truck hooked up to it, and it was stil a no go. evyerthing would light up and turn on, ie. my headlights, interior lights, all my gauge lights, and once the alarm went off, my hazards. as soon as we pulled it off, they'd go dim and then the battery'd die.

I'm probably going to go over there and look at it soon, i'll let you guys know how it goes

pull the alarm out and fix the wires they were tapped into

alarms are only like 5 wires anyways

I actually just finished doin that haha, all that's left is I'm waiting on my dad to get home with his wiring stuff, to cut it and splice the ignition back together. Here's a picture of everything (the relay is still in because I didnt cut it so he'd know what to look for)

https://i760.photobucket.com/albums/...3/IMGP0640.jpg

You should be good to go now. Let us know.

cool.gif Hmm Interesting. cool.gif

Ok, so I got the alarm stripped out, took the relay out and spliced the ignition back together..but we have a problem.


The engine is turning over, actually sounds pretty bad@$$ with just headers..can hear the pistons hitting and it sounds like a friggen drum..such an awesome sound..but anyway, it'll turn over, but it wont fire..and also, my gas pump seems to not be feeding fuel through. we disconnected it from the fuel rail, and sure enough when we tried turning it over, nothing came out. so then we tried puttin fuel in, then puttin the plugs in, then starting..still no fire. so we decided to test the wires..no arc..so we got my dad's meter and checked the fuses, they're all fine, checked the plug that connects to the coil pack..it was reading 12V, so that's fine, but when we tried checking the coil pack..stuck the positive in it, and the ground we just placed against a spot to ground it..and then tried crankin it for long enough that it would've gone through all of em..and it never once jumped from 0..


So, are there any other ways to check for a bad coil pack? and if it's bad, does anyone have one that they would be willing to ship? We can get one from the dealership but it'd be about 90$, plus about 15$ in gas..and wont be able to get it for at least a week, possibly two..if anyone has one, please let me know.

Edit: Also, does anyone know what would cause the ecu to not let it fire?

Check the crank position sensor and the cam position sensor.

You can check the wiring to the coil pack to see if the ECU is sending a signal. Don't buy new coil packs until you verify that the ECU is sending a signal, because it probably isn't.

How do you check those two sensors? I know where they're at, but not what they're supposed to look like inside.

My dad's got a friend with stuff for checking the ecu (the obd and all that), he's comin out like thursday or somethin, but i;'d like to have it done before then haha

If you're getting your hands on an OBDII scanner which displays live data you may be able to check for a cranking rpm display while turning the engine over. Short of that check to be sure that everything is plugged into them correctly and that the crank sensor is for the Beta I. Beyond that you'll have to find a DIY for checking the sensors. Webtech might have a procedure.

Alright, thank you. Do you know if the first o2 sensor being unplugged would keep it from firing?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (187sks @ Apr 10 2010, 11:49 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Check the crank position sensor and the cam position sensor.

You can check the wiring to the coil pack to see if the ECU is sending a signal. Don't buy new coil packs until you verify that the ECU is sending a signal, because it probably isn't.</div>



We checked the set of wires that plugs into the connector on the coil pack, to connect it to the ecu, we checked the ecu side of it, and it registered 12V when I turned the key to the on position, should we check it while trying to crank? or would that matter?

Another thing, I just read this topic

http://www.autotropolis.com/car-forums/kia...ion-sensor.html


I know its a different car, but would I still need to erase the code on mine? or should that matter?


Edit:

I checked over the sensors, and the crank sensor had been loose, so we electrical taped it, turns out it had come loose inside the tape.

Now, I have it running, starts up pretty easy now, have to pump the gas a little still but after sitting for almost a year, that's to be expected I guess.

My quesiton now is, those of you who have the meghan headers..did ya have a problem with the heat beeing put off, melting the oil temp sensor wiring? It hasnt melted the wire, but after about 10 minutes of running, it has melted the plastic/rubber covering from around the wire right next to it.

I plan on heat wrapping em, or getting em heat wrapped, but for now we're probably just gonna put some insulating stuff that the place my dad works at uses, stands up to at least 1000 degrees, so that should be good enough. probably just wrap it around the spot that's by the wire and leave it that way for now.

Any other/better ideas?

Glad you got it running.

You could get some metal heat wrap and put the wire in a bit of plastic looming then wrap that with the metal heat wrap. Maybe that's already the stuff you were talking about even.

Sounds like about the same thing, I'm gonna see how this stuff works that my dad's gettin, it should do the trick, but if it doesnt I'm gonna get some heat wrap, stuff's expensive here though.

Just tie wrap the sensor wires near that runner to the coolant hose. That's what I did and haven't had a problem in forever.