4doorGL

Keep in mind the 169hp is wheel horsepower, not crank horsepower, so he actually gained around 50hp or so.

Remember Alpine also did a crappy installation on the turbo and s/c both and neither car was tuned to begin with. It should be relatively cheap (in comparison to the installation fees) to get the Unichip programmed that they send with the kit.

SickYellowG60

Now about the Corrado.

Number one Random it is bored out to 1.9L not 2.1L. My full throttle had now hp at all. I had just tried getting rid of the pinging and the new fuel filter worked but all of my hp dropped out of the bottom. I thought that my cat back was stock but I found out it isn't. When messuring the pipe after the cat it went down to 1.25inches?!?!?! The amount of back pressure that it has is drastic. Average G60's with this sort of mod's generally gets between 165hp on the wheels to 185 hp on the wheels. Mine just still isn't running right and my shop just isn't helping right now.

daemon696

ok 4-doorgl, your saying not to get the chip with it? then why does random say dont bother with the chip? how much hp would he run if he did use the chip? about how much hp should the turbo run, alpine claims around 230, is this high or low?

Random

Alpines numbers are inflated. Onpol managed 227 HP to the wheels with 10 PSI an NO headspacer. The Alpine kit includes a head spacer to lower compression, so call it 200 Hp to the wheels is the best you can do at 10 PSI. The Uni-chip that Alpine provides is okay, but not great. If I had to to it all again, I would have asked for a discount on the kit, and NOT gotten the Uni-Chip and 5th injector, and instead gone with 4 larger injectors and a Haltec. That is coming...

I found a Uni-chip programming place in Southern California. They quoted me $200 to fix a BAD screwup, or $75 to $150 for a normal uni-chip tuning. It should go in for this work in about 2 weeks. We'll see what a difference that makes.

SickYellowG60

So are you going to dyno again after the Uni-chip is setup right?

Random

It needs to be tuned on a dyno, so I will have before and after numbers on the tuning.

Trampus

Going with the Haltec over the Unichip is a huge step. You've got to rewire just about everything with the Haltec and that takes a lot of time.

I guess it just depends on the person. If you are going to constantly be adding parts and wanting to tweak your setup then Haltec is the way to go but for someone like me that just wants to get my car to a certain level and then quit, then Unichip is the better option in my opinion.

Red

The UNIChip is not necessarily the best option for someone who wants to bolt-and-go. The UNIChip, just like the Haltech, requires hours upon hours of tuning time, and you're still limited by the stock ECU effectively.

The Haltech requires more wiring indeed, but the exponential leap in accuracy, tuning spectrum, support and functions is far and away superior to the UniChip... And consider the fact that a UniChip and a Haltech E6K that's fully ready for a Hyundai install are almost identical in price.

Haltech for me too, thanks. Unichip can attach here *insert pic of donkey nutsack*

-Red-

Iago

If a person was planning on eventually doing a lot of tuning work / performance enhancement, but at the current time was holding off and keeping his Tiburon N/A, would it be prudent to go ahead and purchase / install / tune a Haltec setup? Or should said person wait until he's got all his money and parts all in a row, and do it all at once when the switchover to forced-induction is made?

Red

I am currently in the position you describe, and I have finally decided to wait until the new motor is finished BUT install the Haltech before the boost is added.

Let me explain...

I have a spare 1998 longblock sitting in my garage, and all the "cool" parts are going in this spare motor. I have finally decided to spend the money on getting this motor physically finished and put into the car, rather than buy the Haltech right now.

What I'm planning to do is break this brand-new motor in totally off-boost for 1,000 miles. I will be using the wholly stock computer and fuel delivery system, so that I can be relatively sure that if I encounter any problems with the motor that it's not coming from something wierd in the electrical.

Once the new motor is fully broken in and ready for boost, I'll install the Haltech and the new fuel system. At this point, I know the motor is working well, so I can assume that any new problems will be related to the new computer and/or the new fuel system.

Once it's behaving really well again, turbo bolts on. From this point, I know the motor is good and the computer is good, so I can assume any new problems are coming from the turbo equipment or the associated on-boost tuning.

In my mind, this is a WHOLE lot easier for me. For you, I cannot say smile.gif My decision-making processes are primarily based on my access to a fully spare motor and entirely changing how the entire powertrain functions. You may not be targeting something quite as radical, so your decisions may vary from mine wink.gif