i'm going to experiment with some wire and resistors. maybe if i can find out the resistance of the condensor fan, i'll be able to fool the stock ecu. the alternative is to convert to the full sized radiator from the x3. just requires some creative mounting.



also i missed those posts above me. yes, i did try loosening the top tensioner, there is room enough for that. it didn't resolve the problem. its defs coming from the idler. i've got about 5/32in of clearance with my current setup, no bashing required. the idler isn't defective, its just the source of the noise. its only a 10k old unit



i do appreciate all the helpful replies so far. cheers guys

 

okay.



pulled the engine and torqued the idler and tensioner back down to 50nm as per the service manual. i also looped the wiring for the condensor fan back onto itself.



NO DICE!



the rad fan still won't work, and there is still timing belt whine. i'm very confused. i'll just wire the rad fan onto a switched 12v source, but i've got no clue as to why the belt is still whining. can anyone shed some light on the matter?

 

I had a bad idler that needed replaced on the 1.6l once. Maybe that's it?

 

Mine was per the service manuals torque spec and whined like I had a S/c. I brought it down a little and the sound went away. Ran fine for 60k like that.

 

EVERY hyundai 4pot t-belt I've done I've always started out with the torque spec then had to back it down once or twice.

 

...pull... the engine... out... again?



the whine is going down a fair bit. drove just over 60 miles today, so i'll monitor it over the next few days. for now i'm working on the wiring.



what ecu pin does the beta II cvvt use for the water temperature? the closest i can find in the diagrams on here and exd.com is pin 51: "cooling signal input". i'm just worried about tapping into it if its a 12v input to the ecu, then frying the ecm.

 

You cant get to the tensioner with it in the car?

 

granted, yes, i can hit up the top tensioner. i'll give it a go.

 

The only concern I had was getting it to loose and moving the belt a tooth, etc. Good luck! That sound is freaking annoying.

 

I forgot to mention the fix. It turned out to be the idler, so I replaced it with the 30k idler that came with the engine when I bought it. Problem solved!



The rad fan always gets power, it just requires a switched earth from the ECU. I forget which ECU pin I used, but it is now on whenever the ignition is on. Sweet!