Curtas

Okay, it looks like the battery relo is a go. I know I have another thread going, but this will be the final place for the q&a.

Now, Summit Racing sells a kit, but from other car sites, they say this kit is overpriced, because you can pick up just about everything locally. I beleive it comes with 2 guage wire. A local shop around here (speed unlimited) has a kit for $50, and I think I could piece the parts together at NAPA or Pep Boys for about $35 or $40). If it comes to that and the kit is good, it's worth the 10 bucks just to have everything in one box. I just want to make sure nothing is skimped on in the kits.

Here's what I think I need:
sealed plastic battery box with vent line to the outside
short length of 2 or 0 gauge wire (a physics guy at work -- who's really good with cars -- recommended 0000 wire, 0.5" thick!)
20' length of same gauge wire for + lead
mounting bolts and straps for trunk
battery terminals (to attach inside the hood)
miscellaneous zip ties, brackets, etc.

Questions:
is 0000, 0, or 2 gauge overkill for a 100 amp starter?

Should I ground to the strut tower or run a ground to the engine bay, similar to the original battery (basically the terminals would be the same)?
--edit-- Random answered this in the other thread: any frame or body panel, so long as it's metal on metal.

If I ground in the trunk (strut tower seems like the best place), do I need another ground line to the engine block? I know some other makes of cars require this.

How should I run the lines? I'm going to try to run them through the passenger compartment the entire way. This should eliminate damage from rocks, speed bumps, exhaust heat, etc.
--edit-- again, answered in the other thread: interior is best -- although, how should I get that big-ass +12 wire through the firewall?

Finally, do I have the battery acessible from the trunk compartment, or should I warp & cut the trunk panels to hide it? This may be necessary for mounting purposes.

muchos gracias to those who respond. I promise to document this project for the archives.

a

--edits-- from where I read the previous thread and realized (like an idiot) that I already asked some of the Q's.

[ August 28, 2001: Message edited by: Curtas ]

Random

I would go with 4 or 8 gauge wire for the positive, not 12 gauge.

Summit has several kits. Some are $100, some are just $50. For $50, it comes with everything you need, sorta hard to go wrong.

The battery box will have to be bolted to the trunk somewhere to keep it from sliding around. You can use those bolts to ground the battery, or drill a seperate hole for ground. The strut towers are rather far to run a ground line.

I believe our engines do have a ground wire/strap, but since you will be grounding the battery to the frame and body, you will not need to run the negative wire all the way to the engien compartment.

There is a very larger grommet in the drivers side footwell, right behind the drivers side quarter panel/fender. If you remove the fender, access is easy. If you want LESS work, remove the drivers side front wheel, and wheel well liner, that's almost as good.

You can route the wire under the car, just be sure you follow the brake lines. They stay away from heat and are semi protected. use zip ties to hold the positive wire to the brake line, and you should be fine.

You can leave the battery accessable from the trunk for now...and build a cover for it later if you so choose. If you "tuck" the battery into the "nook" on the passeger side behind the rear wheel well, it will make it easier to build a cover for it, or you can remove your spare tire and squeeze a small battery into the spare tire well. if you want to really hide it.

Curtas

Thanks for the info. Oh, I was considering 2 gauge, not 12. I know 12 would be waaaay too small.

I hadn't thought about running with the brake lines; I'll get under there this weekend and see what I can find.

I think I'll have to take out the tire and wheel for grommet access b/c my fender is held on by more than just bolts. There are two or three "snap-rivets" that go along the edge behind the signal lamps along the bumper edge. I tried to get the fender off when I did the alarm installation, but it was no use. I couldn't get those little bastards off without destroying them.

I'll keep you all informed.

a

QuikTib

Please don't forget pics! as I am considering this mod as well.

Iago

Hey, are you relocating your stock battery, another wet-cell battery, or are you swapping out for a gel-cell or dry-cell one?

Curtas

I'm relo'ing the stock one to the trunk.

Jaws99

Ok here ya go. Get 20 ft of 4 awg wire no bigger no smaller I've did about 15 of these installs at Circuit City trust me you need one distribution block for under the hood waterproof would be key this is to be used to drop the 4 gauge to like say 8 gauge to run to the alternator and accessories etc..and also keeps everything fused up front incase of a power sppike. Make sure to run the wire inside the car opposing what Random said (sorry Random) the last thing you want is a power wire dangling under the car that a rock or salt from snow or heat from the exhaust causing you problems this way inside there is no danger. These parts should run you about $40. Use the old tray from up front and bolt it to the floor of the trunk and seal the holes with caulk or something of the king. Then just go and buy a battery tie down strap if not you can always rig bungee straps to do the work until you have the cash to buy the straps. Hope that helps.

Curtas

Thanks for the info.

I was actually considering using a battery terminal on the +12 wire and hooking the existing positive wires to it. Then I could get a plastic project box from Rat Shack to protect it from the elements (and short circuits) and bolt it underneath the fuse box.

I think I do want a heavy duty case for it, though. I've been witness to two battery explosions, and heard of at least four more from friends. They are not pleasant, and that's the last thing I want to clean out of the trunk.

I'm going to the speed shop friday after work and hopefully can finish the install by monday. If my g/f can get the digital camera, I'll try to have some pics on Tuesday!

later,
a

2K3GT/2K Wagon

Curtas, are you going to Speed Unlimited in MD.?, only one I know in the area. I would offer yoyu a hand but I have to do an entire exhaust (manifold to tailpipe) on an 89' Geo Spectrum.

Curtas

Thanks for the offer, but this one I think I can do myself. Now when I put turbo parts on, I may take you up on that. smile.gif

Yeah, Speed Unlimited is in MD. I've heard good things about them, although they specialize in Mustangs. The guys on the phone have been really nice. I'll let you know what I think of it after I go there.

later everyone,
a