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New Flyryde Catback Exhausts

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Old 06-16-2006, 12:42 PM
  #21  
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2 questions.

How long of a tip would work best with our cars? 4.5", 3.5", or just the angle cut, or will all be fine. I don't want the muffler sticking out past the bumper, but i still want to be able to see it.

Secondly, the headers and exhaust will be able to be installed in my garage right, without going to any shop?

Thanks! fing02.gif
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Old 06-16-2006, 05:11 PM
  #22  
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I think the best will be the angle cut, so thats what I got for me.

As for your request REDZ, the high flow cat would simply replace the OEM. There would be no pipes? If your GT headers are installed right now, then the very end of of them (the d/p) will be already welded to a flange. That flange would then have 2 bolt holes in it, and it'd be bolted to your stock cat. If you got the high flow cat, it'd sit in the exact same position as the current one does with a 2 bolt flange on the engine side, and a 3 bolt flange on the muffler side. From there, you'd install the "CAT-BACK" exhaust.

I've installed several exhausts with zero people helping me. I've done it with the car up on jack stands at one end, and sitting on the tires at the other. I've done it with the car 5.5 feet in the air on a lift, and I've done it with ramps where it sat on the wheels like normal about 8 inches lifted above the ground. The header is being designed to install without even having to remove the power steering pump like I always have to for the OEM. Should be about a 2-3 hour job with a little help.
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Old 06-16-2006, 09:52 PM
  #23  
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I understand that it would replace the end, but I don't know if what you are making is going to mate up perfectly with the GT headers, you know what I mean? There may be some length differences, or, it COULD just all bolt up.
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Old 06-16-2006, 11:10 PM
  #24  
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did the GT Headers bolt up to the existing cat? is the cat in the same place it's always been?

it won't bolt up to the headers, it'll bolt up to the existing cat (or new cat if you get a high-flow). The cat is what is causing it to fit or not, not the headers.
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Old 06-17-2006, 12:08 PM
  #25  
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I thought I made it clear a few times, my GT headers are NOT ON THE CAR YET. I'm getting them ceramic coated first, so I have no clue. Hence my questions here.

Depending on where any headers end, the other stuff may or may not be the right length. I don't understand how this isn't being understood, several members here have had to get small extensions or fixes made because headers didn't butt up against the exhausts' from another company. <----- No header should bolt up to any exhaust system unless there are NO CATS. If you have a cat, or at least the second cat, it'll be sandwiched between the end of the headers, and the start of the catback exhaust.

-chris
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Old 06-17-2006, 01:16 PM
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You dont understand cause your a shop noob there buddy. The Headers, like Majik said, have nothing to do with the catback fitting on the cat. IF ANYTHING, you'll need to have your headers made to mate up with your stock cat.

Basically bro, we know exactly what you're talking about. Me, from actually having those pipes laying on my face while I do exhaust swaps all solo. I KNOW what your concern is, you just dont, lol. Check it out though, the one single thing you will need to be concerned with, is that your new shiny headers, run from the head, replace the front cat, and continue down under the engine with some sort of flex pipe, which connects via 2 bolt flange to your OEM or aftermarket Catalytic converter. Thats it. Make the cool shiny pipes go to the uncool lil cat. Thats all.

The catback attaches to the other side of the cat, so if your headers get installed no prob, then the catback will likely just bolt up to the cat on the other side from where the headers do, and you'll be all set.

Now if other memebers experienced fitment issues, and had to have a custom shop weld the flange or even reweld the flange in a diff location, then thats all about the down pipe, or flex pipe attached to your GT headers. I'm not even sure what the GT headers look like except for the upper most part that attaches to the cylinder head. I think I saw Moos car with them the day we met up in Vegas right? In that case, its all about the section of the GT headers that bolts to the cat. If thats cool, all should bolt up fine for you.
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Old 06-17-2006, 03:14 PM
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Hmm... to end some confusion here. cats and all that were covered in this forum sometime ago.

two sensors, one before catalyst, one after.

some tiburons (older tibs) have 2 cats, others have just one. some have them up front, others have them in the downpipe. if your cat is in the front, you'll have to get headers which come with a downpipe which eliminates the first cat but ends where the second cat should be. downpipe already has an O2 bung welded into it. second sensor would have to be extended to the bottom of the car and plugged directly into the cat.

headers plus downpipe, then you buy some flanges from ebay for like $3 and buy an aftermarket cat with an O2 bung in it for the second sensor, have a shop weld the flanges onto front and back of cat and bolt it all on after the downpipe. then chris's exhaust bolts after that.

if you have an existing bottom cat (newer tibs), the downpipe from the headers would just be replacing any piping before the cat but would bolt right into place. basically the second cat wouldn't move at all. chris' catback would just bolt right up to the cat but you would have to match the flanges.

flanges are a $3 part. it shouldn't even be a worry.

only concern is, the Apexi' goes under the axle meaning it'll skip one or two hangers. it'll be swinging all over the place without custom welded hangers. i got my Apexi replica and had to have it permantnely welded to the axle to keep it from swinging.
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Old 06-17-2006, 03:30 PM
  #28  
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I understand guys, the problem is, I wasn't going to hook up my GT Headers until I had the new exhaust.

See?

The GT Headers come with 2 parts, the upper curved part, and a downpipe that goes about 3 feet or so long after the curve with a flexpipe. I'm pretty sure there is a bung on there, but that's not my concern.

Now that you've spelled it out for me though, I think I understand.

So, I'd want...


2.5 Inch Exhaust, with either the Angle Cut Burnt Tip or the N1 Style muffler.

High Flow cat with the o2 bung IN IT, with flanges on it in the right order to keep the o2 bung on the right side.


Let me know Chris. I can shoot you some money on the first. This is a high priority for me. My only remaining question is what kind of warranty are they offering on their work? I'm wondering if we will have any rust problems with these. I doubt it, but you never know.
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Old 06-17-2006, 04:50 PM
  #29  
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anything not stainless steel or coated will rust like craaazy. my dynomax is worse than my 10 year old stock exhaust. that is why i should have listened to odessitpashka and got that motoria piping then done what i wanted with it. rust is another concern.

redz, Kspec dp has a bung for the first sensor too so you won't even have to extend the first sensor only the second. then you need a catco high flow or something better with an O2 bung in it. those do not come with flanges. you'll need to ebay some flanges but make sure to get Chris' piping diameter. Apexi i think is 2.5'. one flange for inlet and outlet. also dude, the O2 bung is always on the left side because the cat has to be positioned at an angle for the sensor to go in. it also has to be positioned horizontally. sensor will be on your left bottom side as directed inlet to outlet.

chris, plllleeeeasse try to get these coated or something. it's asking for too much but damn my mild steel apexi wannabe is going to corrode completely soon... right now i can't even get the bolts off of it. i hope the piping is good too. my dynomax is worse than ricer.

also be prepared to spend $20 on glasspacks. not even the SS motoria can go alone without buzz.
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Old 06-17-2006, 04:58 PM
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I thought there was a bung on the GT's, I just have them stashed right now and didn't want to take them out.

As you see though, Chris is going to be offering the cat converter section, so I don't need to worry about the rest of that. I know the ones on ebay don't come with flanges.

As for the O2 bung being on the left or right side of the cat, that makes no sence, I'm talking on the FRONT or the BACK. I'm not sure if it's gotta be before or behind the converter. Everyone is making this harder than it is, I think Chris understands what I'm talking about now.

I'm not worried about a glasspack at all, I've been in a few cars with the apexi now and they sound great, no glasspacks. if this one sounds that good, I won't be trying to quiet it down anymore.
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